Loyale rear wheel bearings won't budge and CV pin won't come out.?

[cnc]

Y'all,

I have a  92 Loyale and love it. One rear wheel bearing was making the ticking sound, so a friend offered to change them. The roll pin (I assume it's a roll pin) will not come out so that he can remove the CV axle, which he was trying to do because the end of the axle will not come out of the bearing. Looks kinda rusty. Probably the original one.

 

Two questions:

 

1. How to you get a stuck pin out of the axle so we can remove it? He could beat it back and forth a bit, but not all the way out.

 

2. How do you get the axle to come out of the bearing? He tried a puller, but the forces got huge so he abandoned that attempt.

 

We are expecting the other side to be just as much fun, too.Haven't seen it, but there's something in the wind....

 

cnc

Edited August 5, 2013 by cnc

[Gloyale]

1. Hammer

 

2. Bigger hammer (but don't deform the threads on the end.

[Numbchux]

The rear spindle (end of the axle, that the hub rides on) needs to go in towards the center of the car to come out of the bearing. So it is possible to leave it attached to the axle if the outer roll pin will not come out.

 

 

If it's the inner roll pin, at the diff, I'm afraid you're in for a bit of a fight. Make sure you have a good 3/16s punch, not a screwdriver or anything, and a good heavy hammer. Heat and chemicals help a little, but at the end of the day, just sheer grunt.

 

 

If it doesn't come off, you can disassemble the inner joint on the axle and maybe get enough room to get things apart that way, but then you have to rebuild the axle, as you assemble the suspension when you go to put everything back together.....yuck.

 

 

 

And yea, getting the spindle out of the bearing. Big hammer. The end of the spindle has a bit on the end that's not threaded, so go to town. I have mushroomed them out enough that I couldn't get the nut back on, but an angle grinder made quick work of that, lots of room to avoid the threads.

[idosubaru]

roll pins not coming out, i've never seen that.  get a good punch and wail it.

 

the stubs i've seen all sorts of problems.  i've also not only mushroomed the ends enough they needed grinding but i've seen the first thread or two actually be "compressed" enough from the bashing that the nut would not engage and they weren't reusable...well maybe you could clean the threads up but my tap and die set doesn't go that large.  but you're not in the rust belt so probably means you won't have it that bad.

[scoobiedubie]

You could be the victim of some welding epoxy that you mechanic secured everything together with. In that case, you pull everthing and go to the autowreckers and buy everything off on a 150k mile vehicle or less.

 

The pins only come out one way. If you look real close at the CV axle, the edge of the entry hole is tapered on one end, and has sharp edges on the opposite side. You insert your round driving punch, into the end with the sharp edges ONLY, in order to remove the CV pin at the rear differential or transmission.

[Crazyeights]

After years of fighting these with a straight punch I finally bought the correct Subaru axle pin tool. This REALLY helps a lot. If you don't have one I recommend getting it. If you can just get one joint apart on each side then you can pull the whole trailing arm and work it on the bench if you have to. You are also going to need a socket to get the rear bearing nut off. I couldn't find the correct 4 pin one so I found one that was close and ground 2 pins off.

Edited August 5, 2013 by Crazyeights

[BoxerRebellion]

Since you asked.

 

Brute force. All around. Pins will always come out. All they need is persuasion.

Penetrating lube, if you must. If your punches are TOO big, use a hex wrench.

 

And... If you can't get the axle out, sounds like you may need to unbolt more. The strut assembly can dangle in the wind. That's alright.

Having that available movement is what allows you to "twerk" the output shaft in and out of place.

 

CV axles can be messy and strenuous.

Others can be quite easy.

 

And....

For when you finally do get the axle out and replace what you need to... You'll run into trying to get the CV axle's shaft back through the hub.

Force it through far enough so that a few threads are visible, then thread the axle nut back on. Wrench on that puppy with a vice grip. Whilst - shaking.

And do be sure that any grooves or this and that are clearing whatever races may be hangin' out.

Aughta do.

[cnc]

Thanks, guys! Interesting that Subaru made a special tool for removing that pin. It is the inner pin, so the CV axle will not come out for us. My wrench was able to pound the inner pin out somewhat, and cut it off with a hack saw. That must mean it's fairly soft, so how about running a drill through it?

 

To press the axle stub back through the bearing, how about a biggish gear puller? He said the back side of the backing plate was tapered and would just bend, anyway. It's sounding like the proper guy for this job would have a name like "Mongo" or similar, and drag his knuckles when he walks.   

[Rust]

i made my own punch by cutting off the head of a screwdriver that was a little smaller than the diameter of the roll pin. soak it with PB blaster, coca-cola, or whatever you have on hand, and whack away.  when in doubt use a bigger hammer. 

[cnc]

So if we beat the tar out of the pin, I'll need to replace it. Is a generic roll pin ok, or do I need a special, tapered pin from Subaru?

 

If we get the pin out, but the CV won't come off willingly, can we use a bearing separator or some trick to get the CV assembly off of the differential?

 

Thanks,

cnc

[MilesFox]

I have gone as far as removong the whole subframe and using a hammer to beat off the cv ends from the diff. In my case these were very rusty midwest cars. The trick was heat and pb blaster.

 

The axle can be disassembled from one and and left on the stub if you just need to get the axle apart.

[Hydropneumatic]

To get the spline shaft out of the wheel bearing, it helps to use a hub puller along with a heavy hammer. Get the puller torqued, then hit the drive screw with something like a two pound hammer or sledge. Usually only takes a few whacks for the hub to pop loose, but it needs that shock to get things separated.