redXTwedgie Posted August 23, 2013 Author Share Posted August 23, 2013 Go to the original EA engine connector in the engine bay. Tie the Purple(?)EJ wire into the Yellow/Green wire for Temp gauge. "T" in a resistor(270 ohm) and connect that to ground on the intake to correct the swing of the needle. You can also tie the Green(?) wire into the Yellow/black wire for Oil Pressure. It will work backwards though.......when all is good, the gauge will be below zero. If the OP drops off, the needle will peg to maxed out. (I may be confusing the EJ wire colors, but purple and green are the OP and TEMP wires from the EJ harness.....go by whatever we labeled them) You will also want to ground out all most of the Black/red, Black/yellow, etc....wires at the EA engine connector......the Digidash and trip computers will need those wires to be grounded. I remember the purple and green wires. I think I buried them in the loom because the labels came off. I think I found the Yellow/Green up on top in the wires that run along the top of the firewall. Yeah it seems I have some grounding to do. I get a bouncing tach(which I haven't hooked up yet BTW) when I use my turn signal. And my CEL from my EA is just barely illuminated for some reason. I haven't touched that either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 I am coming through portland area tommorow early AM.....headed out to wheel at browns camp. On my way home in the evening I could stop in if you will be available? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redXTwedgie Posted August 23, 2013 Author Share Posted August 23, 2013 Sure Dan, I'll be around all day Saturday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redXTwedgie Posted August 24, 2013 Author Share Posted August 24, 2013 The good news is that the temp and pressure are real easy to hook up. Bad news is that it's running a bit hot. I just have the one EA electric fan in its normal spot running all the time (off switched 12V for the moment). I'm thinking that one should be good enough, but I still have trapped air pockets causing the hot condition. I don't know if I'll have to add the second fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redXTwedgie Posted August 24, 2013 Author Share Posted August 24, 2013 Oh no! Although it was fine last night when I shut it off, I started it up to discover that i'm down a cylinder. And its not the injector, plug, or spark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redXTwedgie Posted August 24, 2013 Author Share Posted August 24, 2013 UGH! No compression Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redXTwedgie Posted August 27, 2013 Author Share Posted August 27, 2013 OK, one head later and I'm back in business. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redXTwedgie Posted August 27, 2013 Author Share Posted August 27, 2013 One more dumb question: Are the coolant hoses correct or reversed? I have nothing to reference it with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWD J3wman Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 I added a 1" hood spacer from some chrome spacers i got at menards for $3.00. Cooled my engine about 10 degrees and up to 20 on the freeway, works better than my 160 degree thermostat i got at autozone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obk25xt Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 (edited) Your coolant lines are reversed..... Shouldn't matter much, but they are..... Edited August 29, 2013 by obk25xt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redXTwedgie Posted August 29, 2013 Author Share Posted August 29, 2013 Your coolant lines are reversed..... Shouldn't matter much, but they are..... Thank you. I had a feeling... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redXTwedgie Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 So the engine is running and sounding good finally. But one fan is not doing the cooling job. So I added a second fan in the location of where the engine-driven fan was. I thought I was going to have to put them in front of the radiator, but there was enough room. I had to invert the second fan on the driver side to make it clear the crank pulley, but two of the bolt holes in the radiator lined up. Hopefully this will take care of my cooling needs. I've still only driven it about 5 or 10 minutes at a time, and very gingerly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redXTwedgie Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Today I wired the second fan. It's parallel to the main on its own circuit, fuse, and relay and borrows the main fan signal from the ECU. Needle sits about a quarter while driving and rises to about half at extended idle. Ambient temp is about 80 and very humid. I drove it awhile today and when I went to romp on it, it kind of sputtered. So I expected to find a unplugged vacuum hose and I did. Looks like I just need a tach and a check engine light and I am done. I plan to romp tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redXTwedgie Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 I got the rest of the air out of the cooling system. Now the temp needle holds steady at about 1/5 or 1/4 mark. The tach is hooked up and the car is really running and driving well. Excellent road manners for a swapped car. Need an exhaust system! Lots of fun so far. I just put it into service delivering pizzas and all systems are go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redXTwedgie Posted September 5, 2013 Author Share Posted September 5, 2013 I drove it about 100 miles on the freeway yesterday and it is running really well and getting stronger. Temp needle never budged from the 1/6 mark. The exhaust note is deafening though at high speed. 3000 rpm = 62 mph. Not too bad. Looks like over 30 mpg still on the freeway. Around 23-24 in town. Very happy with those numbers. Magnaflow resonator and muffler are on the way. I already have my mandrel-bent sections as well. Will be 2 1/4". Muffler is stainless 2 1/4" in/ dual 2" out. And then the dilemna of the OBX header. I sold my Impreza and my next project is looking like an SVX w/ecutune and 4.11 Legacy ratio w/n2o. More fun on the way!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redXTwedgie Posted September 13, 2013 Author Share Posted September 13, 2013 Look for my XT to be for sale soon. It's in the process of being replaced with an AT and two more cylinders...(wink, wink) I'm just going to finish the exhaust first, before I sell. I now have all the parts. A Magnaflow 18135 22" glasspack for the resonator and Magnaflow 13148 single in/dual out stainless for the main muffler. And 2 45 degree mandrel bends to finish it all in 2 1/4" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redXTwedgie Posted September 25, 2013 Author Share Posted September 25, 2013 (edited) Well, I've racked up over a 1000 miles on the swap and all is well. Unfortunately, I don't have a welder and probably won't finish the exhaust before I sell it. I'll just include all the exhaust components with it. FOR SALE Please PM if interested. I'll post in the for sale column in about a week. Looking for four grand. First dibs to those reading this thread. Edited September 25, 2013 by redXTwedgie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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