Weber tuning questions - please read if you have a Weber!

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

 

I'm not Sure, but I bet it is a Sequential 32/36 DEGV Weber Carb, not the Synchronous 38/38 DGAS.

 

This Car belongs to another USMB Member, maybe he post more info about that, here.

 

Kind Regards.

[briankk]

In the picture above "Photos of the 1982 Subaru RX "Safari Rally" , behold, the 1982 Soob RX sporting properly mounted Weber IDF carbs..

 

That is how it should be done..

 

Do tell us more about the turbo EA81, didn't even know it had been built.  How much HP and torque were claimed?

[Gloyale]

Actually they are on there the same way as the DGV's

 

Riders front to back

 

not shoulder to shoulder like you said they should be.

 

The IDFs on the dual carb setup have their float bowls on the outside edge.  not the rear.

 

Subaru must really not know squat about webers......

Edited August 17, 2013 by Gloyale

[briankk]

Actually they are on there the same way as the DGV's

 

Riders front to back

 

not shoulder to shoulder like you said they should be.

 

The IDFs on the dual carb setup have their float bowls on the outside edge.  not the rear.

 

Subaru must really not know squat about webers......

 

(sigh)...

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

Hey guys, calm down...   ...Relax.

 

As Old School Subaru Enthusiast and Mechanic, I've done many Weber Swaps on EA82's from Local people, also in this Many, Many Years that I have the Great Honor of Being part of this Subaru Club and the Awesome Comunity here, I've seen Tons of Photos of Weber Swaps and all of them Looks like This:

 

 

 

Appreciate the thoughts Briankk but these do mount as I have done.  The adapter can only mount this way unles myself and 1,000's of others make a custom adapter.  Still though, the manifold is designed as such:

 

Adapter on the base of the DGEV 32/36:

 

For Subaru EA applications this is how they mount.

 

 

The Reason is that there are two banks of Cylinder, one each side and the Right Fuel + Air Mixture shall be Distribuited Equally Side to Side, and thus mean the Longitudinal Orientation of the Weber Carb, so Both Stages will point to the Middle (Center) of the intake Manifold.

 

Otherwise, in a Transversal orientation, the Low Stage of the Weber will be Closer to one Bank of Cylinders and Far from the Other, while the Other Stage will be Closer to the Other... Viceversa.

 

Thus means a Problem using Progresive Webers (as the 32/36 DGEV) which are the Popular design widely used; not really a Problem using Synchronous Webers. (Such as the 38/38 DGAS) but those last ones aren't intended for street driving, only for racing and are scarse.

 

So Please stop alleging about if the Weber should be Longitudinally Mounted, or Traverse Mounted, because it only confuses the Newbies; the correct info has been posted here already and is posted again above.

 

Period

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

I've learned a Lot all across these years, I Paid my university Studies by Fixing Cars and despite that since I have a Non-Mechanic Job nowadays, I Still wrench almost daily, after Job, fixing someone else's cars for extra income; but I have made Mistakes too...

 

Recently I posted some rear strut info Backwards, and very Kindly, Gloyale corrected me remembering that the spring perch is taller on a 2wd model... ( Many Thanks, Gloyale   ) ... I Admit my mistakes (and also I fix them) and I always try to do my Best to post only accurate information on the Forums.

 

Usually I only post info on Subjects that I Really Know, Understand, and from my Own experiences; so I know is true and accurate... also I take many Photos of almost every Job I do, so I can Share them with the Newbies on this forums.

 

So very Kindly let me state this: if Everybody is telling that you are Wrong, it should be true; especially if the info comes from people who has done that Swap Jobs; "Being There, Done That" real life experiences, also according to mechanic literature, you know...

 

So very Respectfully I Suggest that Posters should inform themselves in a better way, before spreading wrong info on the forums... and even worse: Insisting that the Wrong Info is Right. 

 

 

______________________________________________________________________

 

Back to Topic, Does the Origial Poster still have troubles with his Weber Swap?

 

Please give us Feedback.

 

Kind Regards.

[Dinky26]

Thanks Jeszek.

 

Now I have one more question, upon seeing your comment about the racing only version.

 

What if the carb I have says this statement of " for racing only", what kind of difference is there between the two models?

[Idasho]

Im curious as well.

 

Sounds like a choke issue to me though.

 

 

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

You're Welcome!

 

...What if the carb I have says this statement of " for racing only", what kind of difference is there between the two models?

 

Well, All those Webers are Sold in USA "For Racing or Offroading Purposes Only" due to Smog, pollution and other Legal Regulations that vary from State to State in USA, so They're Not "Street Legal" on certain areas and that statement shall be placed on all brand new Weber Carbs, due to said Legal Regulations.

 

But that doesn't mean that you have a Synchronous 38/38 DGAS Weber, if you want to be Sure, just take a look at the Linkage between both Stages, behind the acceleration plate: If Both Butterflies moves at the same time, all the time the Throttle position moves, it is a 38/38 DGAS (or bigger numbered, like the 48, etc...), But if one stage opens after the other have reached already half way open, then it is a Progressive Weber, such like the popular 32/36 DEGV.

 

The Synchronous Webers, such like the 38/38 DGAS are more used to Racing purposes due to the Higher Fuel usage (Both Huge Jets at the Same Time), and thus means that if you use a Car with such kind of carb as daily driver, it will be a Gas guzzler, compared to the Progressive Webers, like the 32/36 where you commute with only one stage (with Small Jetting), usually; and the High stage (with Bigger Jetting) is used during deep acceleration only.

 

Kind Regards.

Edited August 18, 2013 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

[O.C.D.]

Well, back to my thread, lol.

 

Turns out the alternator was bad and wasn't giving enough juice.  New Battery was almost dead too.  So I swapped the new alternator and ignition coil in and charged her up.  Started and ran fine!!!  She is happy now.

[O.C.D.]

FWIW I also did the fuel filter and it had about a 1/2" of rusty sediment on the bottom.  I also added an inline filter in the engine bay right before the carb inlet.  I can see the flow as well as have another fail safe for crap getting into the carb.

 

Darn, I guess I forgot to mention I checked the float and it was spot on.

 

Now my only concern is the backfiring, lol.  Scary loud!!

[djellum]

backfire or afterfire? backfires come out the carb, afterfires come out of the exhaust.

 

im guessing afterfire from the sound of it.  check to make sure your ASV is plugged off, you may have left it open when you pulled the air box.  also it could be an indication of a too rich condition.

[jono]

Firing order is 1324 anti clock rotor rotation, some get the normal inline 4 firing order mixed up with Subes flat4 firing order

Edited August 19, 2013 by jono

[Dinky26]

O.C.D. you SAID please read, but NOT to not post LOL.

 

I will say thanks for posting the ?s though, sure does make for good info.

[O.C.D.]

backfire or afterfire? backfires come out the carb, afterfires come out of the exhaust.

 

im guessing afterfire from the sound of it.  check to make sure your ASV is plugged off, you may have left it open when you pulled the air box.  also it could be an indication of a too rich condition.

 

Afterfire - I never knew there was a difference.  Basically I turn her off and wait for the explosion every time.

 

I am thinking she is just rich.  Need more time to adjust.

 

Firing order is 1324 anti clock rotor rotation, some get the normal inline 4 firing order mixed up with Subes flat4 firing order

 

Was I wrong? 

 

O.C.D. you SAID please read, but NOT to not post LOL.

 

I will say thanks for posting the ?s though, sure does make for good info.

 

Ok, semantics, lol

[djellum]

afterfires are just a combination of air/fuel/heat in your exhaust.  the exhaust is hot and most cars run extra fuel through into the exhaust, so its mainly a game of finding where air is getting into the system.  check ASV's and for exhaust leaks to start.

[O.C.D.]

afterfires are just a combination of air/fuel/heat in your exhaust.  the exhaust is hot and most cars run extra fuel through into the exhaust, so its mainly a game of finding where air is getting into the system.  check ASV's and for exhaust leaks to start.

 

Will do.  I am pretty sure it is the old exhaust as it has some leaks in it.  The heads were the main leak but I was able to use new studs and seal that up 100% better.  I am thinking it is after the Y-pipe.