CV Axle Clicking

[SLCPUD]

   I have a 1988 DL Wagon w/5-speed manual.  I have had this vehicle for over 20 years and have rebuilt the engine and other components.  I like the vehicle but have had a terrible time with front CV axles.  Last month I put on new rotors, inner/outer bearings, seals, ball joints, tie rods, brake pads, cone washers, stabilizer bushings, and CV axles on both sides.  Vehicle was aligned.  Both CV axles were new and supposedly not re-manufactured (one from Autozone and the other from O'Reilly).  But now both sides are clicking horrendously - especially in first gear regardless of going straight or turning.  My mechanic friend confirms that the noise is from the axles. 

   I cannot imagine that new CV axles would go bad within 30 days.  What am I doing wrong during install? 

[bendecker]

I'm sure that many would say you are just buying the wrong axles and I would tend to agree. However, I did put in a remanufactured one from Autozone 10 years ago and it worked up until a couple of months ago. So, there are examples of longevity with the brand.

 

One of the common complaints on aftermarket axles is that they don't have enough grease in them, which helps lead to premature failure. A "quick fix" that some will likely call blasphemous, but might get some more time out of your already clicking axles is to pump more grease into them using  a grease needle through the boot. Years ago, I did this (the hole left was, obviously, really small). I then cleaned the needle hole really well and dabbed on some flexible permatex to seal it up. Not only did it stop clicking, but lasted many years after this "fix". If you have the time, it's obviously far better to pull the axle, open up the boot properly and grease the heck out of it, but I figured the axle was on it's way out, so why not? In my case, it paid off.

Edited August 12, 2013 by bendecker

[NorthWet]

A common issue after doing axles or front bearings is either not installing the dished washer in the proper direction (convex out), and another is that the axle does not fully seat in the hub when you torque down the axle nut.  These issues allow the axle to slide slightly in the hub, as the axle can not supply the tension on the axle.

 

Check the direction of the dished washer, and then retorque (significant overtorque is tolerated, and sometimes recommended) the axle nut.  See if these makes a difference.

[Dee2]

A common issue after doing axles or front bearings is either not installing the dished washer in the proper direction (convex out), and another is that the axle does not fully seat in the hub when you torque down the axle nut.  These issues allow the axle to slide slightly in the hub, as the axle can not supply the tension on the axle.

 

Check the direction of the dished washer, and then retorque (significant overtorque is tolerated, and sometimes recommended) the axle nut.  See if these makes a difference.

+1

[ford'ssubaru's]

Scary question?  There is a cone washer.  Flat washer and nut....Where is the dished washer?  I am worried I don't have them at all?

 

Thanks,

 

Eric

[somick]

Scary question?  There is a cone washer.  Flat washer and nut....Where is the dished washer?  I am worried I don't have them at all?

 

Thanks,

 

Eric

I think they reffer to flat washer as a dish washer.  It really is not completely flat.  One of the sides is marked "OUT" on my Loyale.

Edited August 15, 2013 by somick

[NorthWet]

Yes, the "flat washer" should be slightly dished. 

 

It is designed to be put on convex-outwards, so that the nut first makes contact on the center, while the outer rim contacts the bearing outer-race first.  This helps insure proper transfer of force from the nut to the stationary outer race.  Installing the dished washer incorrectly, or using a regular flat washer, prevents proper fastening of the axle.

[ford'ssubaru's]

Hey thanks all!  I learned something.  Just to be safe I am going to get new ones!

 

Thanks,

 

Eric