Tire pressure question - 1992 Loyale Wagon

[Helios 1]

Good afternoon all...

 

So I have a question, or rather, need a second or third opinion on tire pressure. I own a '92 Loyale Wagon that I've had since July of this year and the tires looked a bit low. They were sitting at 25 psi (average) I believe, with each tire being maybe a couple psi off. Today I filled all the tires up to 40 psi. According to the tires, to which I've provided the specs below, the max load for each tire is about 1,047 at 36 psi.

 

My questions for which I need answers and opinions are 1.) will the tires be fine being 4 psi over and 2.) the Owner's Manual for my wagon states the factory tires for this car are different than the ones on there now so does it really matter and what would it affect?

 

It seems someone had larger tires put on the car so if putting factory spec ones back on would improve my MPG, I'm all for that...considering my MPG is crap right now as it is. I also have my rear driveline out, a lack of power, random stalling, and backfiring through the intake so that's probably not helping my MPG case.

 

Equipped tires:    175/70 R13 36 psi (Geostar)

Owner's Manual: 165 SR13 28 psi front 28/32 psi rear

[caspice]

Tire pressure for a vehicle is determined by the vehicle manufacturer, not the tire manufacturer. The plate located in the drivers door jamb will provide proper tire inflation psi/kpA for the specified tire. There should be a min & max pressure base on vehicle load on the plate or in the owners manual. Inflating a tyre to max tire rated psi, if you are not running the equated max load, does not improve your fuel economy verses increase tyre wear. Tire composition will affect economy; a soft rubber has more rolling resistance compared to a hard rubber compound. Performance tires that provide more Grip will cost some fuel economy over a highway/all season tire that does not offer as much laterial stickiness.

Moving up one or two tire sizes should not result in huge decreases in fuel economy. When you up the size by several sizes you run the risk to moving the applied final drive gear ratios out of the engines power 'band'.

The issues you mentioned in engine performance would seem to be related to incorrect ignition timing or a bad spark plug/wire, distributor/rotor/coil.

Have you checked the ECU for Codes?

How bad is your measured fuel economy?

How many miles on this EA82?

Since you have only had the Loyale for two months, do you know the maintenance history, records?

[l75eya]

Our 93 loyale calls for the 175's, IIRC. I do know for a fact it calls for 28 psi front and back.
I run them with 30. Car rolls a slight bit better. Stiffer over bumps however.

I wouldn't exceed the maximum rating on the tire, no matter what the vehicle manufacturer calls for.

[Godsmulligan]

I never check tire pressure, just eye ball it. If you're running them to low, you'll wear out the outside of the tire tread first. If you have to much you wear out the inside first. Never had any problems

[Godsmulligan]

Delete double post

Edited August 13, 2013 by Godsmulligan

[robm]

The tires the Loyale was designed for are no longer available.  The original tires were rated for maximum load at 32 psi, and Subaru recommended that they be inflated to that pressure for highways and heavy loads.  Modern tires are rated for maximum load at 36 psi.  Equivalent tires are not really available, as 165/80 are really hard to find now.  The 175/70's you are running are close, but are probably a little lower rated load than the original 165's. To achieve close to an equivalent load rating, they have to be inflated to maximum rated pressure. 

 

Run at 36 psi, and it will work just fine.

[Helios 1]

Tire pressure for a vehicle is determined by the vehicle manufacturer, not the tire manufacturer. The plate located in the drivers door jamb will provide proper tire inflation psi/kpA for the specified tire. There should be a min & max pressure base on vehicle load on the plate or in the owners manual. Inflating a tyre to max tire rated psi, if you are not running the equated max load, does not improve your fuel economy verses increase tyre wear. Tire composition will affect economy; a soft rubber has more rolling resistance compared to a hard rubber compound. Performance tires that provide more Grip will cost some fuel economy over a highway/all season tire that does not offer as much laterial stickiness.

Moving up one or two tire sizes should not result in huge decreases in fuel economy. When you up the size by several sizes you run the risk to moving the applied final drive gear ratios out of the engines power 'band'.

The issues you mentioned in engine performance would seem to be related to incorrect ignition timing or a bad spark plug/wire, distributor/rotor/coil.

Have you checked the ECU for Codes?

How bad is your measured fuel economy?

How many miles on this EA82?

Since you have only had the Loyale for two months, do you know the maintenance history, records?

I've had the car since early July and since then have replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap/rotor, and fuel filter. I don't know how to check the ECU for codes nor how to redo the ignition timing. My mechanical experience only began last year when I started working on my old Ramcharger and is quite limited at that. I have a mechnically inclined buddy who's going to fix the timing in the near future, assuming that is a contributing issue.

 

As for the MPG, I'm not certain at this point, but I've driven it about 30 miles total maybe and gone through over half a tank (15.9 gallons). I would think I should be able to get at least 20 MPG. Would the rear driveline being out and the car thinking 4WD is engaged have anything to do with it? The odometer is currently at 207,416 miles.

 

Regarding the maintence history, aside from what I've done with the plugs, plug wires, rotr/cap, and fuel filter, nothing else has been done except the rear driveline being taken out so I'm not stuck in 4WD. The car was stuck in 4WD when I bought it. Had it towed to me. The following is based off of what paperwork I found in the glovebox.

 

Midas 11/9/2001: Exhaust pipe installation/replace muffler/tail pipe installation (96,496 mi @ servicing) Technician Comments: suggest brake inspection, timing belts, cam seals, valve covers, leak

 

Les Scwab 2-26-2008: Blackwall All Season Tires (x4) and wheel spin/balance/alignment

 

 

Les Scwab 8-2-2010: Blackwall All Season Tires (x4) and wheel spin/balance

 

It would seem the car had about 3 previous owners before me.

 

Our 93 loyale calls for the 175's, IIRC. I do know for a fact it calls for 28 psi front and back.

I run them with 30. Car rolls a slight bit better. Stiffer over bumps however.

 

I wouldn't exceed the maximum rating on the tire, no matter what the vehicle manufacturer calls for.

 

I have the tires at 40 psi right now, but I'll drain them today before I go anywhere.

 

I never check tire pressure, just eye ball it. If you're running them to low, you'll wear out the outside of the tire tread first. If you have to much you wear out the inside first. Never had any problems

 

I used to do that too until I invested in a tire pressure gauge and decided to actually use it.

 

The tires the Loyale was designed for are no longer available.  The original tires were rated for maximum load at 32 psi, and Subaru recommended that they be inflated to that pressure for highways and heavy loads.  Modern tires are rated for maximum load at 36 psi.  Equivalent tires are not really available, as 165/80 are really hard to find now.  The 175/70's you are running are close, but are probably a little lower rated load than the original 165's. To achieve close to an equivalent load rating, they have to be inflated to maximum rated pressure. 

 

Run at 36 psi, and it will work just fine.

 

If I invested in slicks, could I have a better chance of finding those 165s?

 

Also, thanks to all you fine folks for your input. I'm about to go regap my spark plugs and depressurize those 40psi tires to 36psi just to be on the safe size.

Edited August 13, 2013 by Helios 1

[caspice]

Do you have a FSM (Field Service Manual)?  If not, download it from here or elsewhere on the web ASAP.  

With that mileage your EA82 is prime for seals and new timing belts- at a minimum, unless you have record that they have been replaced in last 30k miles.  

Since you already replaced the fuel filter and ignition bits you're off to a good start; look into a coil as well.

 

Check under the hood on the drivers side, near the windshield/behind the shock tower and check the connectors.  Make sure the single wire-green connectors are NOT plugged together.  these connectors get plugged together to check engine timing.

 

While you're looking,there is a vacuum hose connection at that same location.  Check that these lines are connected and in good condition.  You can follow these lines down underneath the starter - 4wd actuator

 

Is this a 5spd manual or automatic?

 

The ECU is located under the steering column - metal box about 6" x 2" x8".

There is a LED view port on the front (side facing the passenger compartment).

If the LED is flashing you need to check the Code read out for the related issue and recommended corrections (FSM)

 

Use the search function-there are a lot of very knowledgeable folks on this site that have posted fixes for most typical issues with the EA82.

 

There are several posts here related to the proper replacement of Timing belts and seals; even a few on You-Tube.

 

Have fun and enjoy.

Keep us updated on your progress.

[Helios 1]

Do you have a FSM (Field Service Manual)?  If not, download it from here or elsewhere on the web ASAP.  

With that mileage your EA82 is prime for seals and new timing belts- at a minimum, unless you have record that they have been replaced in last 30k miles.  

Since you already replaced the fuel filter and ignition bits you're off to a good start; look into a coil as well.

 

Check under the hood on the drivers side, near the windshield/behind the shock tower and check the connectors.  Make sure the single wire-green connectors are NOT plugged together.  these connectors get plugged together to check engine timing.

 

While you're looking,there is a vacuum hose connection at that same location.  Check that these lines are connected and in good condition.  You can follow these lines down underneath the starter - 4wd actuator

 

Is this a 5spd manual or automatic?

 

The ECU is located under the steering column - metal box about 6" x 2" x8".

There is a LED view port on the front (side facing the passenger compartment).

If the LED is flashing you need to check the Code read out for the related issue and recommended corrections (FSM)

 

Use the search function-there are a lot of very knowledgeable folks on this site that have posted fixes for most typical issues with the EA82.

 

There are several posts here related to the proper replacement of Timing belts and seals; even a few on You-Tube.

 

Have fun and enjoy.

Keep us updated on your progress.

I don't have an FSM, but I'll go ahead and obtain one ASAP.

 

I'm gonna have my buddy redo the timing when he has time next week. While we're on the topic of mileage though, how is it that these cars get such high mileage and are still ticking? I thought after 200,000 miles, a lot of cars (especially trucks) were toast or the drive trains/engines were toast. I've also never has a Subaru before this Loyale so yea...hmm.

 

I planned on throwing a super coil in it as long as the voltage isn't too much.

 

The connecters are unconnected as should be.

 

5spd manual

 

* Also, my buddy tweaked the distributor and the backfire through the intake stopped. He also tightened up the spindle nuts and the "clickity clack" i was getting on my rear tires stopped. Front bearings are crap though. The front tires aren't spinning freely by hand when the front is jacked up. I'm happier than a clam that I got power back, but once my bearings are replaced I'm hoping my MPG goes back up.

[MilesFox]

If you had loose nuts on the rear axles, the washers may be on backwards. Something to know to prevent further trouble. The washer is conical spring washer and should be installed with the dish side facing the hub and the dome side facing the nut. If installed backwards, they will not hold torque and will compromise the bearings and or the hub splines.

 

These engines can see well over 300,000 miles with normal wear provided there was no neglect or abuse.

 

You are better to keep the tires aired up more as it will have less camber wear since these cars are way positive with front camber. The recommended lower pressures are most likely for traction purposes in multiple road surfaces considering the 4wd.