2002 OBW Clutch replacement advice needed

[Uber Subaruber]

Hello All!
 

2002 OBW Limited 5sp 4cyl. I need to replace the clutch sooner rather than later. I am mechanically inclined, but not a mechanic. My brother is more mechanic-like, having resurrected an old BMW and maintaining his own motorcycles.

My question is this: Having never done a clutch on a Subaru, but having done them on other cars, is it possible to do this in less than 12 hours, including breaks for meals? What pitfalls should I look for? What "extra" parts should I buy beforehand, as just-in-case parts if/when something breaks (bolts, bushings, etc.)?

What clutch kit should I buy? Should I go with OEM or would something from AutoZone work just as well? I do a lot of city driving, so should I get something a little more durable, like a sports clutch?

I need to do this, need to do it right, and need to get it done in a day. At this point, I do not have a lift, but I can start asking around- I might know someone who knows someone...I do not want to be pulling the motor or anything too involved- the simpler the better.

 

Any links to a step-by-step guide to doing this job would be helpful, although I fully intend to get a Haynes manual, if for reference only.

Thanks in advance. If I get nothing but links as replies, that is cool. But I spent almost an hour searching for threads here and the closest thing I got to a step-by-step for a clutch replacement in an Impreza. If I need to order a specific clutch, the sooner I know the better - I hope to do this on Sunday, so need time to get it shipped to me if need be.

[Legacy777]

Not sure if you already did this work, but I would recommend going with an OEM clutch & pressure plate setup.  You will also need a throw out bearing and the clips that go with it.  Assuming the flywheel is ok, and doesn't need to be resurfaced you should be good there.  It's kind of up to you, depending on how many miles are on it, but replacing the pilot bearing on the flywheel might not be a bad idea.  The other thing folks have suggested replacing is the actual clutch fork.  It's stamped steel and has been known to wear out & crack, depending on use.

 

I think you could get this done in a day especially with someone helping.

[MilesFox]

If you take the advice given here, the consensus is pulling ht emotor is less work, aside from having to open the cooling system. It is possible to lift the motor and pull it forward with out entirely remoing it to do the clutch.

 

Plus if taking the motor out, you can do things like the valve covers much easier, and take the opportunitiy to servince the timing belt and cam seals.

 

Pulling hte trnas involves removing the axles, which involvs undoing ball joints. This also requires you to remove the header pipe and cats. Then you get into rusty bolts and having to replace donut gaskets and spring bolts. Not to mention being under the car on your back, dropping the driveshaft, and spilling fluids all over the place.

 

Versus pulling hte trans, pulling the motor requires undoing the same bell housing bolts. But you only have to disconnect the exhaust header form the heads, and the rest is just coolant hoses and wiring harnesses. You would only have to be under the car to undo the motor mounts and the exhaust header. This work is more efficient if you have an engine crane. 

 

It takes less than an hour to pull or reinstall the engine if you are experienced with subarus. Access is much easier with the engine out, especially if you want to do the rear baffle plate ad removing flywheels from under the car is not fun either.

 

The motor will sit just fine in a milk crate or 5 gallon bucket.

Edited August 18, 2013 by MilesFox

[Gloyale]

If you take the advice given here, the consensus is pulling ht emotor is less work, aside from having to open the cooling system. It is possible to lift the motor and pull it forward with out entirely remoing it to do the clutch.

 

Plus if taking the motor out, you can do things like the valve covers much easier, and take the opportunitiy to servince the timing belt and cam seals.

 

Pulling hte trnas involves removing the axles, which involvs undoing ball joints. This also requires you to remove the header pipe and cats. Then you get into rusty bolts and having to replace donut gaskets and spring bolts. Not to mention being under the car on your back, dropping the driveshaft, and spilling fluids all over the place.

 

 

I dissent from any "consensus" claimed.

 

Firstly, let me say that pulling the trans DOES NOT require pulling anything apart at the hubs.  Simply pop the pins and slide the inner cups off after the trans has been dropped back slighty down and back, as it's coming out.  The same can be easily done in revers for installation. 

 

There is no need to remove the axles, or diasassemble hubs, balljoints, struts...etc..  Altough, if you DID need to get more clearance, it would be easier to mark and reassemble the strut/knuckle bolts, and flop it out slightly.  But again, you don't.  the axles will come off once the trans moves back an inch or 2.

 

Second the trans doesn't even have to come all the way out......just down and back 6~10 inches.

 

A creeper and a tranny jack are cheaper than an engine hoist.

 

Pulling the engine will give you access to alot of other things, like seals, waterpump, timng belt etc........but if you aren't in for doing EVEYTHING you could possibly do all at once, and want to just get your car running pulling the trans is cheaper/easier............to me.

 

others will surely diasgree....and pulling the engine isn't a "bad" option at all.

[MilesFox]

I should have been more specific. I didn't mean taking the axles out all the way. 

 

I still revel in the realm of ea82 cars so i keep thinking of that when i am too quick to post. Just undo the pivot bolts on the strut to knuckle.

 

Either way, Everyone has there preferences. I find it easiest to pull the engine with my methods, but a lot of what i am working on needs engine work anyway. I guess i am speaking form the realm of swapping whole drivelines as i have done alot of that.

 

Also i am speaking from the manner of resources of the back alley garage rather than having professional shop space and tools.

 

Actually, i just swapped trans' between 2 cars back and forth to eachother. I did this because i didn't want to pull the ej swapped motor in the first car. This saved me the work of pulling 2 engines from 2 cars, but the se engines did not need any work. Plus i was swapping struts, driveshafts and the rear diffs.

 

But i tell you it was not fun laying under 2 cars in a puddle of gear oil and it took me months to get around to put the 2nd car back together after getting the first one going. 

Edited August 18, 2013 by MilesFox

[Gloyale]

I should have been more specific. I didn't mean taking the axles out all the way. 

 

I still revel in the realm of ea82 cars so i keep thinking of that when i am too quick to post. Just undo the pivot bolts on the strut to knuckle.

 

Either way you don't need to do anything but pop the pins out.

 

Once the Trans is back and clear of the engine, you can shove it to one side a tad, remove an axle, then shove it the other way and pull the other one.

 

No need to mess with anything at the outer end of the axle at all.