Rooster2 Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 johnc & Olnick - thank you both for the info! It is much appreciated. Most of the time I like living where I do, but there are times when it kind of sucks...this kind of situation is one of those times. There is a really small dealer about an hour away, but everytime I have contacted them for parts (of any kind), they never have anything in stock - they would have to order, and then want to charge ridiculous prices for doing so - so I have given up on them. There nearest dealer of any size is a good 3-3.5 hours away...not exactly local. Chain parts stores like Autozone and Advance Auto Parts are store that I buy parts for my Subies. It is better to buy their high end priced parts, and stay away from their "cheapie" priced parts. Quality is better that way. If you need Subaru OEM parts only, then the Subaru On-Line parts websites are the way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 (edited) Might see what ShawnW (RetroRoo) can do for parts/prices. I'm sure shipping from Denver is cheaper and quicker than waiting for something from one of the coasts where it seems like all of the online dealers are. There's nothing that says you have to use Subaru screws on the separator. You can get screws that match the size and thread pitch at your local hardware store. Just be sure to put some thread sealer on the one by the arrow. Edited September 3, 2013 by Fairtax4me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 Rooster - I use AdvanceAuto quite often, and sometimes CarQuest (we happen to have a CarQuest warehouse in town, so I can frequently get lucky getting a part from them). It is fairly rare that I need to get something from a dealer, but when I do need something, the best course is usually online, simply for availablity and cost. So I might have to wait a few days - I usually end up having to wait for Advance to get something in, too... Of the 2 online dealers posted earlier - the only difference in cost is in shipping - one wants $15.95 to ship, the other only $9.95... Still need to make that phone call, see what Jason can do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 Rooster - I use AdvanceAuto quite often, and sometimes CarQuest (we happen to have a CarQuest warehouse in town, so I can frequently get lucky getting a part from them). It is fairly rare that I need to get something from a dealer, but when I do need something, the best course is usually online, simply for availablity and cost. So I might have to wait a few days - I usually end up having to wait for Advance to get something in, too... Of the 2 online dealers posted earlier - the only difference in cost is in shipping - one wants $15.95 to ship, the other only $9.95... Still need to make that phone call, see what Jason can do. When I order something of value.........greater then $50, I will order from Advance Auto on line. I always do a google search for Advance Auto coupons. Usually there is a buch of coupons listed with their discount code numbers. There is always an active coupon of 20% to as much as 40% off the price, then I try to do a "store pick-up." You can really save some money with their coupons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 the only difference in cost is in shipping - one wants $15.95 to ship, the other only $9.95... once you get over their minimum shipping amount, most online dealers charge 10% of the order amount to ship. it was surprising to me (and not surprising) to learn that the online cost plus 10% shipping equals my local dealer's wholesale price. i don't think this is an accident. rooster makes a good point, if you buy the cheapest, you get the cheapest. one nice thing about rockauto.com is you can compare prices between different brands, and if the local store part is $75, you can buy a better part online for the same or maybe less. the coupons on ''retailmenot.com'' for advance autoparts are great. and lots of them are reusable. (save 40 on 100, trt41) i just bought a denso direct fit o2 sensor for my wifes toyota and saved $40. retail = $102, with coupon, order online pick up same day in store = $62. the same part at rockauto.com was $59, plus shipping and the 3 day wait. but some parts are dealer only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted September 7, 2013 Author Share Posted September 7, 2013 (edited) the big difference in shipping between those 2 online dealers appears to be in the method chosen - one uses UPS Ground, the other FedEx... So here is a question: Would the Dorman plate be OK to use, or is this something that I should stick with OEM for? Rockauto Dorman plate = $15 (+ $3.15 est. shipping - would arrive in 2 to 3 days) Online Genuine Subaru plate = $27 (+ $9.95 est. shipping - could take a week or more) that is a pretty big difference in cost & shipping charges.... Edited September 7, 2013 by heartless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 Do you have the part number on the dorman plate? I can't seem to find it on there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 (edited) Myself I would just drop the trans out the bottom. pop the axle pins, drop it down and back a few inches and the axles will come right off, no messing with hubs etc.... But if you want the engine out too, definately pull motor, then trans. Pulling an engine with a 4eat attached is crazy hard, espescially in a regular legacy. Least room between crossmember and dogbone mount, which is the hangup to pulling the 2 attached. I know it's one more step and a set of gaskets, but pulling the intake will make it all alot easier in terms of accessing the Torque converter bolts. Edited September 7, 2013 by Gloyale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 (edited) Rockauto Dorman plate = $15 (+ $3.15 est. shipping - would arrive in 2 to 3 days) this is the first i have ever heard of any one making one except suabru. given the unknown about the dorman plate, and the fact that you have to pull the engine to replace it, and the fact that the $18 difference would not put me in the poor house, and since a week is not going to make a huge difference since you have a bad trans, (right?) i would order it from subaru. but if any one said the dorman plate was fine, or if i could look at it and compare it to the ones i have already installed, i would then go that way. do you have a dorman part number? does advance or one of the other chains carry it? heck, it is probably made by the same company that makes the one for subaru. not much help, huh? don't forget the screws. Edited September 7, 2013 by johnceggleston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted September 8, 2013 Author Share Posted September 8, 2013 (edited) Do you have the part number on the dorman plate? I can't seem to find it on there. Haha - yeah, forgot - you wont find it searching by part name because it isnt listed correctly - I punched in the Subaru OE part number and it came up under "Engine: Oil Cooler Line" (??) Direct out of my shopping cart: DORMAN Part # 917034 {#11831AA210} Picture with the listing IS indeed the oil separator plate...I even called them to make sure that is really what it is...The guy I talked to was a little puzzled about the way it was listed too...this was over labor day weekend... as for other places carrying it... Advance Auto: $29.99 Amazon.com: $17.46 Autozone: $49.99 Rockauto still has the best price at $15.13, but no screws... So yeah, seems to be readily available in multiple places...But seeing as how there is not a lot of call for Subaru parts in my area, it is not going to a "stock" item at any of my local parts stores, so I cant go physically see & touch it without paying for it in advance & waiting a couple of days for it to get to the store - then, if I decide for some reason it isnt of good enough quality or whatever, I get stuck with a restocking fee. heck, it is probably made by the same company that makes the one for subaru. You are probably right, johnc. So the screws just need to be of the correct thread pitch and length, and add threadlock to the one? I am sure I could get something that would work at our local hardware store then...so it is basically just the plate that I need. Anyone know the length/thread pitch off the top of their heads? Edited September 8, 2013 by heartless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 (edited) Great find you made there, going to save my mom a little money in a few weeks when I do the reseal on her 04 outback. They are either m6x1.25 or m8x1.25 I can verify sometime tomorrow when I get out to my building. Leaning towards the m6x1.25 though. Length I couldn't swear to as I don't have any of the updated screws on hand. Edited September 8, 2013 by 86BRATMAN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 (edited) thanks for the part number.i had a little trouble confirming it would fit.but it shows fitment for 06 - 11 engines.the amazon link has a zoom on it and you can read '' made in china'' on the part.so probably not made by the same company that makes the part for suabru.the screw threads and length you can get from one you remove. (see link below, but still compare to existing bolt.)the difference,the factory screws sit flush with the surface of the plastic plate, which is thicker than the metal plate, and the heads are tapered like a ''stove bolt''.the new screws are round head and i think they take an allen wrench, but i'm not sure.i must have lost one because i remember buying a hex head replacement at the hardware store.my only concerns were,does the flex plate clear the head of the bolt? it did.and is the under side of the head flat? apparently flat enough.don't over torque them.bolt info:"http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_6/engine/cylinder_block/illustration_4/ Edited September 8, 2013 by johnceggleston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 How did you find that?! Someone has to be the guinea pig... It has the same shape and reinforcement bars. Even has the arrow! Maybe its made from cheaper steel? Maybe its not zinc plated? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted September 8, 2013 Author Share Posted September 8, 2013 How did you find that?! how did I find it? just punched in the OE Subaru part number (11831AA210) at Rockauto, and boom, there it is... LOL Someone has to be the guinea pig... Ummm...not sure I want to be the guinea pig on this one! It has the same shape and reinforcement bars. Even has the arrow!yup - looks identical - but, as we all know, looks can be deceiving.... Maybe its made from cheaper steel?Maybe its not zinc plated? potentially both of the above? Oy Vay! what to do, what to do... Door #1 - do I play guinea pig and try it? Door #2 - do I bite the bullet and go genuine? If it was easier to get to, I would be much more inclined to play the guinea pig - but this is not one of those "easy" things to get at if it doesnt work out... Or, here is door #3, maybe I pull the cast alloy plate off my current DD when I pull the engine & tranny, and use that instead.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 Oy Vay! what to do, what to do... i know what i would do. 1/ go to advance auto and buy the part. 2/ look at it and see if there are any glaring errors. 3/ make a decision and order the part i have confidence in form the supplier i trust. 4/ return the part to advance auto. '' i didn't need it.'' of course, it would be better to compare the dorman to an original suabru part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted September 8, 2013 Author Share Posted September 8, 2013 1/ go to advance auto and buy the part. 2/ look at it and see if there are any glaring errors. All well & good, but my local Advance will not have the part "in stock" (I can pretty much guarantee this - it is very rare they have anything to fit a Subaru "in stock") - I would have to order it, pay for it in advance & wait several days for it to come in... and at their price - not a real appealing option - even with coupons...a 30% off coupon still leaves the cost at about $20...and if I should take it back, regardless of the reason, as a "special order" item, I would get hit with a restocking fee...been there, done that. If it was a regular stock item, no problem. of course, it would be better to compare the dorman to an original subaru part. If I had the money available, I would order both the Dorman part and the OE Subaru part simply for comparison purposes - but, cash flow is sorely lacking around here...which makes steps/options 3 & 4 of your post a bit of a difficulty as well - I cant spend money I dont have, even if I will later get some of it back. Every penny is pinched until I start working again, and get a few paychecks behind me...soon - very soon! (cash flow is also the reason for not just getting a decent used, lower mileage tranny to put in the 95) Right now, I am kind of stuck between a rock and a hard place here, money wise. Every purchase needs to be thoroughly evaluated, all options need to be researched, and every decision carefully weighed. Yes, I "need" to get the parts to do the job right the first time (1000% believer in doing that) but I simply cannot arbitrarily buy stuff and then later return it if I dont need/like it. I just cant. Am I being too "responsible"? maybe...but better that than digging myself a deeper hole I cant get out of later... What I can do is wait. I start working again on Monday - only part time, but something is better than nothing after nearly 3 years, the pay rate is decent, and it is pretty close to home. The old 90 Legacy DD is still running good, and is as mechanically reliable as ever - the only concern is in how rusty the old girl is getting...I have the feeling one more Wisconsin winter is going to be about all I can safely get out of her before she becomes too structurally compromised - the reason for trying to get a better condition replacement online in the first place...She isnt pretty by any stretch of the imagination, but she does what she is supposed to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 (edited) one more approach, how long do you expect to be driving this car? if you are going to keep it 125k like your other one, get the subaru part. but if you are going to drive it a bit and move on, well that is a different story. the chances that the dorman part will fail in the short term are less than the chances it will fail in the long term. besides, after you have pulled the engine once, you can do it the second time in a weekend, easy. maybe ask the guy a rockauto how many of these they sell every year. or this: buy this one off of ebay, for $20, shipped. screws included. the one on my 00 legacy was metal, so this 01 forester should be as well. but you better confirm that. one of the screws look counter sunk, like the 95 setup. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-oil-separator-plate-and-screws-/231012519944?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c96b5008&vxp=mtr i did not even remove the one on my 00, since it was not leaking and it was metal. but i do not remember the screws. Edited September 8, 2013 by johnceggleston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted September 8, 2013 Author Share Posted September 8, 2013 that one looks just like the one on my 90...countersunk screws and all... like I said earlier - Door #3... If I am taking the 90 down to steal the tranny, I might as well get some use out of some of the other parts as well... I am not much for fixing, driving a short while, and then moving in - If I am going to put time and effort into fixing, I am going to get the satisfaction of driving it. LOL So, yeah - it is a fix and drive long term situation - the longer, the better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 That's the one I'm using on my dohc ej22 build, came on the block out of a 94ish legacy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 So, yeah - it is a fix and drive long term situation - the longer, the better. then you better quit dragging that trailer around town. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted September 9, 2013 Author Share Posted September 9, 2013 then you better quit dragging that trailer around town. yeah, I know! LOL Trailer has been parked for the time being. the plan was to fix the Forester for the other half, and the 95 Legacy for me - the Forester is being a HUGE pita, however... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted September 15, 2013 Author Share Posted September 15, 2013 need some opinions, please... Now that I am working again, I cant really afford to take the 90 DD down for a tranny swap into the 95 - and at this point, I am not sure I want to use the DD's tranny...have the beginnings of torque bind starting - only on very hard steering cranks and still intermittent at this point, but it is starting - tranny has over 235K on it... have not tried to do any diagnosing yet (ie: FWD fuse test) What year range will be direct fitment for the '95, and what would you all expect to pay for a lower mileage used tranny? (150K or less if possible) Doing a search on carparts.com, I am seeing prices all over the board - $100 to $700 - and on some high mileage trannys, too...looks like the average in my area is going to be around $300-350ish for something in the 150-200K miles range (searching under 95 specific year) - is this reasonable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 Pricing sounds normal for out here. Any ej22 auto from 95-99 should have the same 4.11 final drive as yours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 I would expect to pay anywhere from 400-700 for an auto with under 150k around here. If you can get one for under 400 that's a pretty good deal IMO. The only major hangups are going to be wiring differences. I don't know enough about the autos to say exactly which years will plug in and work, but I would think 95-97 should be a good bet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted September 16, 2013 Author Share Posted September 16, 2013 OK - thanks guys - so the prices I am seeing are not out of line... just more than I was expecting! LOL time to save the pennies up and keep the eyes open... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now