Godsmulligan Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 I just replaced the heater core, I filled the core up through the heater core lines. I then burped the system. The thermostat is working properly and the radiator has been flushed multiple times with no visible rust. This was a problem with the old heater core but I chalked that up to a rodent building a nest on top of the heater core. It may not have been the entire problem. My question is, if I accidentally swapped the lines going and coming from the heater core, would this cause the heater core not to get warm. If it's not that. I guess, I must have a vapor lock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertmann73 Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 I dont think it would make a difference which way the coolant is pumped through. there should be a valve just before the core that regulates the flow via the linkage from the control panel on the dash. other than that i would check the flaps and cables inside the unit and make sure they are opening and closing properly and your not getting vent air..etc. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 There is no valve on the Brat. Your air mix door is most likely not moving. You need to check the cable from the control to the door and make sure it is attached and the door is moving. The Brat also has no vacuum controls for the heat, so don't be looking there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godsmulligan Posted August 27, 2013 Author Share Posted August 27, 2013 Ok thanks, It's raining today so I can't check it out, but I think the temp/air mix door? cable came unhooked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 (edited) The cores probably gunked up, try flushing it with CLR. There are a few videos of this on YouTube. There should be a bypass valve on the side of the heater core box and make sure that's moving I've had them come unhooked. Edited August 28, 2013 by mikaleda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godsmulligan Posted August 29, 2013 Author Share Posted August 29, 2013 It was the cable for the heat control. It came unhooked. Works great now, thanks. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 I would suggest avoiding using corrosive flushes. The aluminum in the system will not like them, and it is hard to properly neutralize the acids. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godsmulligan Posted August 29, 2013 Author Share Posted August 29, 2013 I would suggest avoiding using corrosive flushes. The aluminum in the system will not like them, and it is hard to properly neutralize the acids. by flushed I ment, drained it when I was chasing down an overheating problem, then drained it again so I could add the correct amount of antifreeze. Drained it when I was swapping the heater core, then refilled with the correct amount of antifreeze. :water: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 I would suggest avoiding using corrosive flushes. The aluminum in the system will not like them, and it is hard to properly neutralize the acids. I'm not sure if you were mentioning this for what I said, but the process only goes to the heater core wich is copper. It is very important to get all of it out though by flushing it several times with water Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 I find it not to bad to remove the end tank clean core out and resoder the end back on then they work great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now