bgambino Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 ok...nieces 07 impreza 2.5 did t belt , pulleys,,,everything Before assembling everything,,I started it,,,seemed fine,,,did not rev it...seemed to idle fine 5 days later (tonight) I put all back together and start it (finished job) Seemed to take longer than usual to start.....idled and stammered a bit...revved it... seemed to idle fine but...... when I punch the accelerator...has a bit of hesitation....and when revs come down, it passes the normal idle speed and almost goes to 0 rpm(almost stalling) and then recovers idle I swear to god I triple checked my 2 marks and the mark on the crank sprocket...it was perfect Pulled the tensioner pin and all still looked ok (<--pretty sure anyway) CRAAAAAPPPP I thought maybe some wire was disconnected or something I then saw that I had the 2 O2 sensor wired disconnected still (pass side front--close to upper rad hose) That did not help Noticed a little noise developing....was the crank pulley...guess I did not have tight enough--tightened I cleared the codes (it has had the P0031 for months)....nothing changed ...in fact the mil stayed on (and the cruise light---this is what it has been doing for awhile---but I was surprised the light did not go out when I cleared the code---tried it twice....and still the P0031 was the only code) thoughts PLEASE.......god I hate re-doing a job can I get in there tomorrow without removing radiator? to check? ANd of course filling with antifreeze...got no heat ...I hate these cooling systems and trying to fill after t stat is removed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 what exactly did you do? timing belt, timing pulleys, timing tensioner, radiator hoses...what else - seals, oil pump, water pump, anything more? why was the O2 sensor disconnected for a timing belt job? vacuum leaks are pretty common - hose not seated, compromised during work, etc. spray some starting fluid around while idling see if it revs up as it sucks in the fluid. but you didn't pull motor so shouldn't have touched any/many vacuum or air hoses right? and yes - check that timing - it has to be dead on and use the correct crank mark, i would expect a CEL or more issues if it was off but it's missed a lot so check. if it ran fine, then didn't, sure sounds like it's timing belt related. it's the right belt - correct? i can't think of what it would be confused with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 This sounds like you may be a tooth off and not have realized it at the time. That does happen to people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgambino Posted September 28, 2013 Author Share Posted September 28, 2013 This sounds like you may be a tooth off and not have realized it at the time. That does happen to people. Hey Nipper I never had it happen before,,,,crap I should have rotated it a few times and looked again Guess it could be worse------out comes the radiator again... 1---what about getting heat? what a pain in the butt I poured antifreeze into the upper hose...till it started coming out of the small water pump hose....sheesh 2--I saw that there is one of those rubber plugs on top of engine with access to the bell housing----I was going to stick something in there to hold it while tightening the crank pulley-----but, it is almost right under the throttle body......virtually impossible to get at it...dumb Nip---how is old Blue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 YAY i havent had to say this in AGES, i am still needed! You never fill any car without it running, it will guarantee you an air bubble. -start car -slowly add coolant till the system is full -wait for a surge out of the radiator (the thermostat openinig) -top off coolant -replace cap drive around block -shut off car (make sure overflow is full) and let cool -check coolant level, repeat once (if necassary). I would also replace the radiator cap if this is the 2nd belt change. I always filled a cylinder with rope compressed the rope then tightened the bolt. You can jam something in the bell housing too. Old Blu died a slow painful drowning death with Sandy. The Justy is alive and well. Now I have an 05 Outback, i miss blu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 use a very stout screwdriver or 3/8" extension, put a few together for length if you need too, that's why i do almost exclusively. it's tight but it fits. have to rotate until there's an adequate hole (there's like 4 - every 90 degrees-ish) to jam it in. you probably did but fill coolant with the nose in the air as much as possible, ramps, hill, curb, whatever you got. i rarely pull the radiator out for a timing belt job, there's plenty of room to do it with it insitu. particularly since you've already had it apart everything is going to come off easily. pull fans and put cardboard in front of it if you want and the only tricky part is the crank pulley - if it releases as it slides off - jams into the radiator. with minor precautions it won't happen though. but i undersatnd the sentiment entirely if you still want to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgambino Posted September 28, 2013 Author Share Posted September 28, 2013 gary---you go in there even with the fans attached?? And-----I have to compress the tensioner in a vise.....sigh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgambino Posted September 28, 2013 Author Share Posted September 28, 2013 Nip I have a green 96 OB wagon with a CCR block with 38k on it ---174k on the body.... Got to pay a guy $200 to do the Duty C---was going to try it with Gary's advice and help....but I don't have the stomach for it now...too busy I am going to work with him Hey Gary-----tell me again....how do you break that piece off the tranny? This mechanic who is doing it has never done one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 unplug & pull the fans out (4 bolts for each, 2 top, 2 bottom - and you dont need to pull the bottoms all the way out, just loosen), no need to pull the radiator unless you really want to. I have to do my tensioners in a vice as well...just take your time with it, it will be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 Pull the end covers and line the crank up at the TDC mark on the center cover. Do the arrows on the cams point straight up? This is the only time the arrows are useful, except for setting valve lash. Not convinced its timing related unless you're more than a tooth off. But then you would get Crank or Cam sensor codes and misfire codes. P0031 is HO2S B1,S1, heater control circuit. This code will not affect the way the engine runs. O2 sensors do not affect engine operation when the engine is cold anyway. I've done full timing jobs with the fans still in, and the alternator and steering pump too. Not hard once you know where everything is and how its all supposed to fit together. Saves time too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 gary---you go in there even with the fans attached?? And-----I have to compress the tensioner in a vise.....sigh i remove the fans, they're easy - no coolant or ATF lines to mess with which is the really annoying part about the radiator. i didn't even know people remove alt's and power steering pumps to do timing belts, i've never considered that. there's nothing to it - remove lower sprocket and tensioner 14 mm and reinstall, done. these SOHC are easy - it can be done in like 45 minutes easy if you're just doing the belt. compressing the tensioner is easy, don't sweat it. or buy another one pre-compressed if you don't have much time/tools or are worried about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniberp Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 (edited) Hey Nipper I never had it happen before,,,,crap I should have rotated it a few times and looked again Guess it could be worse------out comes the radiator again... 1---what about getting heat? what a pain in the butt I poured antifreeze into the upper hose...till it started coming out of the small water pump hose....sheesh 2--I saw that there is one of those rubber plugs on top of engine with access to the bell housing----I was going to stick something in there to hold it while tightening the crank pulley-----but, it is almost right under the throttle body......virtually impossible to get at it...dumb Nip---how is old Blue? It takes hundreds of revolutions for the marks to line up again. Someone has done the math here, but it's not to the way to confirm it. Just take it off and start over.... BUT. I doubt it's the timing, unless you used the arrows instead of the marks to line it up. Edited September 28, 2013 by uniberp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 It takes hundreds of revolutions for the marks to line up again. Someone has done the math here, but it's not to the way to confirm it. Just take it off and start over.... BUT. I doubt it's the timing, unless you used the arrows instead of the marks to line it up. The marks on the PULLEYS line up every 2 rotations. Marks on the belt are the ones that don't line up. I don't think his belt even has marks...looks like a kevlar. (saw in the other thread) Bgambino, you can get in there without removing radiator. just remove fans. as for filling radiator, do it through the upper hose. Leave it on the engine and take it off the radiator, lift it up and poor in coolant til it is full and then reconnect. Fill the radiator the rest of the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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