EA82T intakes....

[oddcomp]

perhaps go have a shop bend up a few 120degree pipes and then cut them apart so off the turbo intake its a really short 90 then anotehr really short 90 kinda like this

 

 

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hmm after 2 tries it resets the ( ) so .. but you get the idea i think

 

only so much you can do with keyboard characters

but i think that would solve your interferance problem

but it means more welding in the end

 

but i suppose a decent exhaust shop can make a S curve easily since they occur alot on automotive exhaust systems

[Warp3]

Another possibility I thought of was a 45-degree at each end with a straight pipe between them (or whatever combo of angles are required that equal 90-degrees and still clear the intake piece). It costs a good bit more that way, though, unless it would be cool enough on the VAF/MAF side to use regular rubber instead of silicone rubber.

[Warp3]

hmm after 2 tries it resets the ( ) so .. but you get the idea i think

 

Put it between {CODE} and {/CODE} tags (with brackets instead of braces, of course) and it won't reformat it.

[Subarutex]

From the air filter to the turbo, it just needs to be sealed. Doesn't really need to hold a bunch of pressure. For my intake on my RX, coming from the WRX turbo i have a rubber 90 degree elbow (got it from www.overboost.com). Into that goes a short piece of ABS tubing, then a rubber straight connector to the MAF, then the adapter on the MAF with a 3" cone filter.

 

We built a similar system for DanBob99's turbo wagon. This car is as stock as one could get, except for the cold air intake.

 

RACTIVE cone filter, 3" - $25

Cone filter/MAF adapter - $1.50

One straight 2" rubber connector - $5

90 degree ABS 2" pipe - $3

1.5" to 2" rubber reducer - $5

All of these things can be found at a home depot, except the cone filter. Some of the above prices may be off... most likely they are too high. The MAF adapter is a grate/drain thing. Has a 3" pipe end on one side. The other side is a square, that looks like a snow flake grill. Cut the center out of the grill. Apply epoxy to the edges of the grill, to fill it in and make it a flat piece. After dry, affix to MAF using 4 short screws. They'll start just fine in the soft plastic of the MAF adapter. Put 2" straight rubber connector on the other end of the MAF. This also needs stretching, but it will go pretty easily. Put 90 bend in the other end of the straight connector. Affix air cleaner. Put entire assembly in. The other end of the 90 degree bend goes in the 2" end of the reducer. Clearance with the plenum is tight, but it willl fit just fine.

 

All said and done, takes about an hour... trip to Home Depot included. If any WA people would like to do this, bring a 3" cone filter, and some pocket change over and we'll make you one up.

[LeggoE]

I have been tinkering with the thought of a 'ram-air' style induction concept for my '84 gl wagon. Got a question...

 

 

...Should'nt the emission pieces normally linking into the air assy. be "pre-filter" like the OEM. setup?

 

Would a small PCV filter element be a sufficient replacement of such, similar to the design routing to the PCV valve on an OHV engine?

 

And lastly, I've already removed the original vacuum motor and the scoop it is mounted to. Should this type of Heated Air Inlet (HAI) system be restored for best performance, or is it mainly better emissions?

[WJM]

Everyone out west has the cool home depots. Here, I cant get squat for that. Ive looked and looked.

[oddcomp]

now see i done forgot

at work we have these nice 2" copper lines for part of the c02 recovery system

 

and those have some nice fairly tight short radius 90's for them

i will take a few pics of what they look like the only rubber you would need is turbo intake to copper elbow the rest could be soldered up

might be a bit cheaper than the silly cone stuff and also polished up copper clear coated looks good