Sandrion Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 I need to know the part numbers for the inner and outer seals for where the axle comes through on a Loyale FWD. I have the bearings and I think one of the seals, but I need to know for sure I have the right stuff before I tear into it, since it is my daily driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 Part numbers from where? The Dealer, or a specific parts store? The seals are commonly available at parts stores, and as long as your Loyale really is a Loyale (1990-up) there should be no ambiguity in the parts listings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 any FWD, 4WD 85-94 GL, DL, LOYALE will be the same part. Just don't confuse it with 80-89 listings (hatchback) or 81-87 (brat) and 80-84 (ea81 gl) J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandrion Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share Posted October 16, 2013 I just need the number off the seal on the outer seal, and the inner seal. I can get my parts guy to cross them if needed. I need the parts before I tear it apart, as I need to drive the car until I get ready to fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 seals skf #20447 # 20445 berrings 6207j x4 2 per side seals 2 per side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 I just need the number off the seal on the outer seal, and the inner seal. I can get my parts guy to cross them if needed. I need the parts before I tear it apart, as I need to drive the car until I get ready to fix it. The outer seal should be the same for all ea81 and ea82's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandrion Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share Posted October 16, 2013 So i got the two seals Ivan mentioned. Are both the outer and inner seals double lip style? because the ones I have are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 Have you considered sealed bearings? I run #6207 2RS bearings in all my ea82's. They're sealed and pregreased, so no seals or grease are needed. Last time I bought some they were $12 at Mcguire bearing(any bearing supply store will have them). The unsealed ones(just #6207) run less, more like $8-10, unless you go to a auto parts store..they'll charge you $40 per bearing and you still need to buy seals and grease Josh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandrion Posted October 17, 2013 Author Share Posted October 17, 2013 My local parts house is a wholesaler, and I also get a discount through work, and me and sealed/pregreased bearings dont jive. Not saying they do not work, but I want something I can grease myself. Thank you Ivan for the part numbers, that helped immensely with the seals. I already had the bearings. The soob is now back together, with new front and rear struts, new cv axles, new bearings and seals in the front and also new bearings and seals in the back.. I think I should be good for a while. Question, do you have to realign after putting new struts on front? It looked to me that it only had one adjustment point way down on the arm, and the strut was eccentric, but I clocked it into the same position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 no alinment needed unless you messed with tie rods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandrion Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 When you say messed with the tie rods. Does taking it loose from the CV axle knuckle and leaving it attached to the rod itself count? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 were it threads on to rack not at kunkle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 As long as you don't loosen the tie rod end on the tie rod and just at the ball joint(castle nut at the knuckle) you should be fine in regards to an alignment. I used to be wary of sealed bearing too, but once you realize the bearings usually fail from contamination(failed seals) or over/under greasing(human factor), you'll understand why sealed units do last longer under harsher conditions. The sealed ones you get from a bearing supplier are higher quality than the undsealed you get at your work and they contain a much higher quality, pre-measured grease than you buy off the shelf. To each their own, I just got tired of dealing with bearings a long time ago Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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