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88 GL, no fuel pump, gas gauge or voltmeter - no start


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SO i'm finally getting around to setting the timing on my 88GL  after a belt went, took it to a shop where I think they used the 0 degree mark to try to set timing

after they put the belts on, he called me up telling me the motor was bad from the timing belt breaking and it was shooting oil up through the intake.

I told him it's a non interference engine, gave him a second chance he still got it wrong. I towed it home.

 

So i finally got around to setting the timing,  I took the belts off, set the flywheel on the timing marks  ( I think the mechanic set it on the 0 degree timing mark),

set drivers side camshaft straight up, to marks (couldn't see it because the a/c bracket was on, estimated it). Then rotated the crankshaft 1 full rotation

so the camshaft was off, so i took the belt off, did it again, got it right, rotated it,  now had it facing down, tightend the adjuster. I think i had to adjust it a little

as when i put the belt on, it threw it off, so i had to do it again).  anyway was satisfied i got it facing down, and the flywheel was on the mark.

 

The passenger side camshaft was already facing up and lined up so i put the belt on tightened it..  

I put the battery in ready to test it (note radiator not removed).  Key in, fuel pump is running, tried to crank it nothing.

went to roll the window down and it worked opposite so i realized i put teh battery in backwards. OOPS!

 

Put the battery in right,  I don't' hear the fuel, the voltmeter and gas gauge don't move.  Kind of sounds like the fuel pump might

be kicking in when the key is going to the start position.   I checked all my fuses in the interior. I checked the one fuse i saw

under the hood near the passenger side firewall. 

 

Oh the gas tank needle red empty so i put almost a gallon, maybe 8/10 or 9/10s of fresh gas in the car. Sprayed a starter fluid in the intake.

I pulled one plug it looked  dry and good to fire. 

 

 

Does the fuel pump stop when enough pressure is built up?   Did i blow a fuse i don't know about?  relay? i'm wondering since the voltmeter 

and gas gauges aren't working, are they tied to the fuel pump circuit? 

 

 
So I could use some guidance from here, and would really appreciate your helpful responses again LOL

 

 

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I am guessing that this is an SPFI engine.

 

The fuel pump runs for just a few seconds after the ignition is turned to "ON" to build up pressure, then it powers off until the electronics get a signal that the engine is turning.  (On the SPFI/MPFI engines, this is from a signal from the electronic distributor.)  It is normal for the pump to shut off with ignition on and engine not running.

 

I would probably check the fusible links, which are in a small black plastic holder near your coolant recovery tank.  You may have made one fail.  (The black one????  Memory isn't working this morning...)

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hi,

   read your post ,, wow,  anyway the driver side T-belt is " usually set first"  with cam pulley mark pointing up , and the three flywheel marks centered on the bell housing pointer.

 then rotate and do the right side belt.    however if the cam pulley marks are " opposite"  from each other ,  and line straight up and down when the flywheel   lll   marks are lined with the pointer ,, then i believe the belts are ok ..  that is not for sure about the distributor timing , after all of this it  might be 180 off or even just  off somewhere because of the mechanic who didn't know what he was doing and moved it to a different orientation.    you need to check distributor rotor and find if it points to #1 plug wire with #1 piston at tdc on compression.   just put the flywheel  ignition timing marks on 0  aligned with the bell housing pointer,,  this  "has  to"  be on the compression stroke not the exhaust stroke.  then check if the rotor is aimed at #1 or 180 off from that..    this is just a ballpark adjustment ,, but should be able to make  run,, you will need to set correctly with a timing light.

 the other electrical issues are separate from the engine belts and ignition timing issues.   as for the pump, if you connect the diagnostic connectors and turn on the ignition switch it should cycle on and off every few seconds.  you need to make sure if all the main fusible links are good, they are inside the small black box attached to the coolent recovery tank , each color has a different value but  they are listed on the lid if you look close.    the ignition coil bracket has a electrical component made on it that may have blown with the battery episode,,  if you do not get spark at the plugs after you do the other things and get them working,, then  try another bracket ,  it is important but it is assembled permanentaly to the coil bracket. 

 try to check all the fuses under the dash and the links first,  then see if your pump comes on with the ignition switch for a couple of seconds ,, that is all they do until it goes to start mode , then the ecm gets a signal from the distributor  to run it continually ,,  however if that coil unit thingy is bad it may effect that signal and not turn on the pump.  i don't know .    however ,, connecting the diagnostic connectors should cycle  the pump on and off every few seconds with the ignition switch on.   last thing you need to have those diagnostic connectors connected to actually set the ignition timing,, but they need to be unconnected for daily driving ... let us know what you find, guys will try to help.

Edited by ruparts
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Thanks for the responses!  I'll check that stuff out tomorrow in the daylight and let you guys know what I find. and yes it's SPFI.

while i had the spark plug out, i gave the cylinder a shot of starter fluid. put it back in and cranked it. I got one catch of ignition.

So I think it's getting spark, but I think you're right about the distributor.  So I expect the engine to be running tomorrow if i didn't just

jynx myself LOL. I did notice the green diagnostic connectors were disconnected.  This is only the 2nd timing belt i had to deal with

since my first experience about 20 years ago with an (78 i think) ford fairmont that was pretty easy too. It's not bad at all.

Edited by Danny88GL
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Car is running.  I noticed that I marked the wrong markings with nail polish LOL   sometime between seeing the right markings, and deciding it was a good idea to mark the lines with 

nail polish i must have done some turning.. and ended up markiing the wrong spot. Once i noticed that,  i marked the right spot and got it running. 

 

I figured out it's easier to turn the cam shaft pully by putting a couple of bolts in it and a screw driver, to get that to line up right. it can be too much by hand.. Also noticed there is a line up marking on 

the bottom portion of the timing belt housing on the drivers side (camshaft pully) and  on the top side of the passenger side. had i known those two things,  the job would have been a lot

easier/faster.  wish it was mentioned in the guides.  

 

I'll probably go test the fusable links for the gauges not working. I checked all the fuses already.

 

Really appreciate the help!  THANKS!

 

Unfortunately the wife says i have to many cars and I have to sell the subaru.  I had to fight with her, she wanted me to junk it!  I need to get rid of the wife and keep the subaru LOL

Edited by Danny88GL
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yea that's what i was using.  also noticed straight up and down.. could kind of use the pulley holes to help too.   I wish they would have made the flywheel marks a circle or an icon or something, then i wouldn't have made

the mistake of the timing marks being them.  It's a good experience though. kind of fun.

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