ej22 prices

[1-3-2-4]

After all this I'm seriously thinking about getting an oil pressure gauge, took the oil pump out sitting on my bed at the moment.

[nowincolor]

I just paid $600 Canadian for a 2000 EJ22 with 112,000km (69,593miles). I feel like this was a good grab but i have no idea...

[1-3-2-4]

^That seems like a fair price for the year and mileage.

 

More fun last night

 

 

 

looks like they used a helicoil for the TB tensioner so I guess I have to swap that out from my Ej25

Edited December 7, 2013 by 1-3-2-4

[1-3-2-4]

OK I have a question since I haven't seen any talk about it.. has anyone ever used anaerobic sealant on the oil pan? I've only seen people use RTV, but given that it's in the low 30's it's going to take forever for the RTV to cure.

[Gloyale]

"the Right Stuff"

 

Will set for in a few hours overnight for sure.

 

Strong, flexible, and highly adhesive but easy to remove if needed.  "the Right Stuff"

[1-3-2-4]

I really don't want to go out and by more sealant stuff, if I put it on tonight will it be cured by next Sat?

[Bushwick]

Anaerobic will start curing near immediately. I've bolted the pan on my Saab, filled oil within the hour, and was driving almost right away with ZERO leaks. It isn't dependent on weather or humidity. It ONLY cures in the absence of air. If exposed to air, it'll never cure. I can run my finger on the outside seam and there's still soft 518 there as it never cured since it's squished outside. I've used it on my Saab (it's a requirement) which has the same style oil pump as Subaru. If any gets in the oil, it won't destroy the oil pump like RTV will or other hard sealants as there is still air in the pan. Only what's compressed is without air. ONLY concern is the mating surface MUST be nearly flat with NO gaps. Saab uses an aluminum oil pan, so that really isn't an issue. Steel pans on the other hand can be.

[1-3-2-4]

I decided on using the ultra grey RTV, about mid way the friken metal split on the side of the rtv :-/

 

So I ended up just taking off the nozzle and spreading it on the pan and thinning it out with a razor, pan is on.. had to do a little mod since almost all aftermarket pans don't have the dipstick tube holder angled up high enough so it can go in and still screw the bolt in at the top of the block.

 

Next is the water pump.. No point in taking the heads off now since as of right now since i plan on installing a oil pressure gauge and I forgot about the oil gallery plug and a oil sensor relocation kit I might push the install and pulling the motor by a few days.. I'm super paranoid at oil pressure at first start up more so then normal since I don't know so much of the history of the motor.

[1-3-2-4]

Made some progress today ha

 

[Bushwick]

If you have the oil pressure gauge, just thread it into the warning light sensor hole under the back side of the alternator and ignore the dummy light wire for now. I'm running mine like this and leaving the oil pressure light gauge wire unplugged, you just won't get the oil light on with key "ON". It'll stay off indefinitely, but at least you can watch the oil pressure instead which is more helpful. On mine with 10w30 synthetic, the pressure stays high for quite awhile before finally settling around 11-12 psi at 650 rpm idle. Closer to around 14 at 700. Hope you used the RTV sparingly. If any breaks off in the oil it can get in places you don't want it.

Edited December 9, 2013 by Bushwick

[1-3-2-4]

Checked this morning at the RTV is a lot stiffer this morning after getting some freezing rain and snow, and yes I used RTV sparingly I know all about it blocking oil passages, my older sender is 1/8" NPT so it wont fit in the stock oil pressure spot, I'm going to use the oil gallery plug on the back of the motor and remote mount the sender.

 

i rather wait a few extra days then having to remove a intake manifold that I just installed with new gaskets.

[1-3-2-4]

I was waiting for this! I had to get a M10 1.25 die a single die cost me almost $30 it's a split die which is what I needed

 

 

 

Almost time to get back on the road!

 

[1-3-2-4]

man its cold out today... trying to pull off the intake manifold off the ej25 and bring it inside to prep to paint it, one of the brackets on the passenger side that goes to the plenum came off I ended up giving a friend the rest of my vaccum hose and I went to move a line I did not bother to change and it snapped..

 

Tonight a low of 15F

[Gloyale]

man its cold out today... trying to pull off the intake manifold off the ej25 and bring it inside to prep to paint it, one of the brackets on the passenger side that goes to the plenum came off I ended up giving a friend the rest of my vaccum hose and I went to move a line I did not bother to change and it snapped..

 

Tonight a low of 15F

 

You do know the EJ25 manifold will not bolt onto the EJ22, right?

 

You can swap the wiring, and the throttle body if it doens't have the same TPS......onto the EJ22 manifold.....but no need to paint the EJ25 manifold unless you want a piece of livingroom art.

[1-3-2-4]

I"m using the EJ25 heads!

[1-3-2-4]

Nice the crank sensor came today

[Quidam]

Saw some news about Jasper Engines...They've now expanded and are doing all turbo charger re-manufacturing in house.

[1-3-2-4]

My oil pressure relocation kit came in today.. I think I might be sending in my injectors for a flow test and cleaning.. I told my friend since I have to power coat and wanting to clean up all this while stuff is off just to wait until Jan.

 

I think it's worth getting the injectors flow tested now that I have 256,000 miles on them, no? At least one of them has a little crud on them but not blocking the nozzle

[Bushwick]

If they are that old, don't waste the money messing with them. You can get aftermarket replacements for $35-50 each, or just source some used injectors off a lower mileage vehicle.

[1-3-2-4]

why? it would only be $88 to have all 4 flow tested and cleaned

[Bushwick]

It'd be like $20 for used with a 1/4 of the mileage. They don't last forever and most likely are hurting performance and economy on some level. 

[1-3-2-4]

<p><br />

<br />

 </p>

 

Will be doing this color

 

http://www.prismaticpowders.com/colors/E-9141B/

Edited December 20, 2013 by 1-3-2-4

[Gloyale]

It'd be like $20 for used with a 1/4 of the mileage. They don't last forever and most likely are hurting performance and economy on some level. 

 

If they pass the flow test then how would they be hurting performance.

 

 

Checked Ebay and a used single injector is $25

 

There were no "new" standard flow injectors for sale at all.  Only 550cc and higher turbo application type.  They aren't new but cleaned, increased flow, and tested.  Who knows what quality guts they "rebuild" them with.......but they range from $300 to $600 dollars and are all waaaaay too big a flow for a N/A engine.

 

You personally may have some hookup or source for cheap injectors......but you can't give advice to others based on circumstances that are specific to you.

 

I'd say he's better off testing a known good set of OEM injectors, and using those rather than some "upgrade" rebuild ones.  Certainly cheaper, and OE subaru is almost always higher quality than unknown chinese electronic parts.

[Bushwick]

If they pass the flow test then how would they be hurting performance.

 

 

Checked Ebay and a used single injector is $25

 

There were no "new" standard flow injectors for sale at all.  Only 550cc and higher turbo application type.  They aren't new but cleaned, increased flow, and tested.  Who knows what quality guts they "rebuild" them with.......but they range from $300 to $600 dollars and are all waaaaay too big a flow for a N/A engine.

 

You personally may have some hookup or source for cheap injectors......but you can't give advice to others based on circumstances that are specific to you.

 

I'd say he's better off testing a known good set of OEM injectors, and using those rather than some "upgrade" rebuild ones.  Certainly cheaper, and OE subaru is almost always higher quality than unknown chinese electronic parts.

You can find inexpensive injectors new ONLINE if you look for them. They also can typically have better fuel atomization which can be very beneficial to the overall operation of the engine and can be just as good quality.  "Siemens Deka" are an example. 

 

I can get used locally for next to nothing like pretty much anyone in the US can. I'll offer advice if I think it'll save somebody some money. If it was a carb with 256k miles, I'd say rebuild or replace depending on rarity and condition. With injectors that have THAT many miles, why throw away $88+ just to hear they'll need cleaned or rebuilt, or have one (or more) that can fail at any moment thereafter, which will add more $$$ to overall cost when it'd been cheaper to just have gone the other route to begin with? Not to mention injectors are NOT serviceable by normal mechanics. He'd be better off running kerosene through it in a stand-alone scenario (out of the car) and eyeing the pattern, googling a known "good" pattern, then going from there. Chances are he'll get scammed and handed back injectors with NOTHING done to them, or get pitched he'll need replacements or "repairs" to them where they'll go and get a junk yard set for $20, throw his away, and give him the bone yard injectors for an inflated price. No idea why you are calling me out on this, but come on.

[1-3-2-4]

I took the crossover water pipe off to get to the gaskets, I'm 99% sure it's the same as the EJ25 I will change the coolant sensor but just leave the gauge sender..

 

it's going to have a color change..