NOMAD327 Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 99 OBW 2.5 DOHC about 190,000 miles, had the motor out 5 years & 50,000 miles ago and did all seals, idlers, belts etc. It’s been as dry as these motors ever are, uses no oil and PVC is relatively new and clean. It developed a very fast leak from driver side timing belt cover yesterday, just driving around town. Lost 2 quarts of oil in 20 to 30 miles. I can’t quite get the belt cover back enough to see for certain, but it has to have completely ejected a cam seal unless it’s something completely wild. The belt is still dry, but I will be replacing the belt and probably both camshaft seals on that side. If I open it up and there’s no obvious problems, should I do something extra to retain the replacement seal in place. As it’s only 50,000 miles since I did everything, would you replace anything other than the belt and the affected seal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 There's a possibility you used low quality seals (not the brown ones), or didn't fully seat them into the bore. I'd check all 4 and the crank seal. If one lets loose, how far behind do you think the rest are? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 more than likely just install a new Subaru OEM seal and you're done. shouldn't have to do anything special. make sure it's seated perfectly flush and everything is clean, light coat of oil on sealing surfaces as you install. was it a new Subaru seal used the first time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOMAD327 Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 I used all Subaru parts except the idlers which were from the import experts. The mechanic was independant but has been doing Subarus since the mid 80's. It may have just been dumb luck, or a slightly loose housing fit. I will know more when it's apart a bit. Thanks for the input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Make sure the drainback holes behind the seal are clear. If they get clogged with a stray bit of RTV or other debris, then oil pressure starts building behind the seal and pushes it out. Your lucky it happened around town and that you caught it. The same seal popped on my mothers 98 outback when she was doing 70 on the highway. It pumped all the oil out pretty quick and her only warning was the no oil pressure idiot light coming on. She shut it off and coasted to the next exit, then walked to the nearest gas station to buy a few quarts of oil. That was enough to drive it to the nearest shop and have them put a new seal and timing belt in it. Surprisingly the bearings survived, and the motor was still running fine 10k later when the rest of the car rusted out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 When seals start popping out on their own I check all of the breather ports and hoses for the crankcase ventilation system. The hose that leads to the block from the PCV valve tends to clog, and can lead to increased pressure in the crankcase. Same with the PCV valve. If its clogged the crankcase pressure goes up. The breather the ports in the valve covers can clog, and the breather hoses can clog where they attach to the valve covers or to the intake tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 odd for sure, i'd try to ascertain if it leaked from the outside or inside of the seal. in my experience it seems the ID is most likely to leak profusely and get worse quickly, makes sense as it has the spring seal and seals a rotating shaft where there OD is static. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOMAD327 Posted November 9, 2013 Author Share Posted November 9, 2013 I took it apart this morning and the drivers side lower seal was ejected from the bore. No obvious problems and the drain holes were open. I got it all back together and it ran normal for about twenty seconds and developed a bad miss and ran badly briefly, now it doesn't even want to start. I will start a new thread to pick up from here, thanks everybody! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Are you 100% sure you put the timing belt back on correctly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 It could have jumped time because the tensioner was damaged during compression of the pushrod. The arm style tensioners do not hold up well in the first place, but they must be handled with extra care when compressing the piston to avoid damage. It's an oil filled cylinder with a check ball style valve to dampen the movement of the tensioner. The seals inside can be easily damaged during compression and the result is the tensioner can flop around and lose tension on the belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOMAD327 Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 What Fairtax4me suggested is exactly what happened. Thanks much, just need a new tensioner now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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