Nbe1210 Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 My 97 Leg Brighton is in need of tires. 180/75 r14 I was hoping to make it a bit longer but I failed inspection for a ball joint and the tires. At the moment I really don't want to spend $2-3-400 on new tires so I have been looking around for used tires. I have found a few sets of 4 that are mismatched but from the one car. By that I mean that all four tires were on a single car (not a subaru) and have more or less the same wear but are different brands. My questions and concerns are as to how much difference can there between the outside diameter of the tires and still be OK? Are 2 different brands of tires with roughly the same diameter OK? Does anyone know of a good source for used tires in the seacoast NH area or southern Maine area? I am on Dover, NH When we bought this car used from Charlie's Subaru in Augusta, ME they replaced one of the tires with a smaller size and it burned up the transmission on our move to NC. I remember stopping and seeing smoke coming from the new tire. Of course they denied it since we were far away but the warranty covered the work and a strongly worded letter from an attorney friend convinced them to pony up for new tires. The whole process was miserable and I would rather not go through it again. Thanks for any help and suggestions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbhrps Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 Nbe1210, You answered your own question with your first tire missmatch experience. Why would you even take the chance again, because this time it'll be on your ticket? That said, yes you can use a set of used tires, as long as they are all the same, and have the exact same amount of tread wear, meaning they're all within a quarter inch circumference of each other. I would be measuring accurately any that I would consider buying. Good Luck in your search! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 I wouldn't be all that concerned about using different brands at the same time, as long as the tires are the same size. I think I read on this forum that all tires need to be within a quarter inch size depth of each other. Others will chime in here, agreeing or disagreeing with me on this post. Looking back..............Years back I had a 91 Subie with AWD, I never knew anything at the time about concerns over tire size. I remember having different brand tires on the car with different depth tread, but all the same size tire. It never presented a problem. Maybe I was just lucky, I don't know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKinPA Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 I would STRONGLY, STRONGLY, recommend that you not only DO NOT put mismatched tires on your car but you bite the bullet and get the least expensive set of new tires you can afford and put them on your car. Tires of different sizes even due to wear is one of the quickest ways to do damage to your AWD system and transmission. Tires of different manufactures have different tread and can/will cause all kinds of problems from improper alignment to steering and handling difficulties. I know tires are expensive! I have a post out here from earlier this week asking about tires for my Tribeca and I will be biting the bullet tomorrow for over $800 when all is said and done. So I get it...but from a safety and maintenance perspective used tires are counter productive. The money you save in used tires can and will cost way more then you save in damage to your vehicle. From a safety perspective think of it this way...if one of your 14 inch tires has an area of 4 inches wide by 6 inches long that is actually touching the road that is only 24 square inches per tire MAXIMUM of traction on the road. Now add to that hydroplaning, (all tires hydroplane) in wet weather, or in snow decreasing the surface area on the road, now compound that with your used tires that are negatively effecting your AWD systems and transmission and you are really adding a bunch of monkey wrenches into a situation that is just not worth it to me. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 All tires must match circumference within 1/4". Forget diameter--none of us could measure diameter with any relevant accuracy anyway! Sorry, this one is a pet peeve of mine. I hate to see such an important fact misunderstood and misstated so often. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 Tires are not expensive in relative terms.. A $ 400 set of tires that has a moderate lifespan of 30k miles only costs $0.013 cents per mile... Nobody does math like that for tires, but it doesn’t lie. As for measuring a tire to see if they can be run on an AWD, just go by a $3 depth gauge and take 3 measurements across the tread. That will only work if brands/ model is a like model, but if they are mismatched you could still look at the OEM specs to compare and then measure nominal thread depth and determine a circumference difference by subtracting how many 32nds has been worn off the tire.. Personally, if I couldn't get 4 matching tires from the same set with at least 75% tread, I'd just buy new tires. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nbe1210 Posted November 6, 2013 Author Share Posted November 6, 2013 Thanks for all the info. I understand the diameter-circumference difference just wrote it wrong but thanks for clarifying. I also get that used tires may be a bum deal but isn't a higher quality, half life used tire better than a new junk tire? If the used tire is significantly cheaper of course. I have bought cheap new tires for a civic i had and wished for my old, nearly bald michelins back because they rode and handled better even with little tread left. I have a few use tire places around to check out for before I eat it on junk new tires. I will definitely make sure they are the same brand and check the circumference. Unfortunately, I just don't have the cash to pay $150+ per tire and get something nice. Thanks again and any other ideas are welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 I wasn't sniping at you, Nbe1210! You asked a perfectly good question. I just wanted to make sure the "rule" was stated correctly at least once in the thread. Don't give up on your search. My son, in Seattle, found an excellent set of matched used tires when he moved up to 15" alloys for his '92 Legacy. 'Course it took us nearly a year watching Craigslist to find 'em! And I wouldn't rule out "budget" tires either. Years ago my tire guy found an orphan set of "made in Indonesia" tires in the back of his warehouse and I took a chance. Best tires I've ever had on the car ('95 Legacy L wagon) and they still look good! (But I never run them in the snow!!!) Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forester2002s Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 Different brands of tires may have different handling characteristics: - different internal construction (number and construction of plies). - different tread design. - different rubber compound. All of this can affect road handling. At the very least, you should have the same pair of tires of the front, and another pair on the rear. In other words don't put mismatched tires on the front, nor on the rear. However, even this can result in dodgy braking. My own preference is to have all four tires the same. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 (edited) This is really simple. The fact is you can mix and match brands all day long, it doesn't matter. It is *only* the size, the physical dimensions that matter. Buy 4 tires the same size and close to the same tread. Put the two with the most tread up front. Biggest issue with used tires is degradation of the rubber - it looses traction and if they have any age to them or were not well cared for they won't do well in snow which i imagine is an issue there. There is a way to decode the numbers/letters on the side to determine their age - google it so you can try to get something that isn't more than 2 or 3 years old. craigslist, ebay, local ads, etc you can find used tires. even subaru boards often have people with used tire sets sitting around, i often do. post a wanted add on USMB right here or subaruoutback.org. If the "replace all 4 with matching brands" people start to scare you...take note. If the transmissions were so sensitive to "rubber compound" or "tread design" or "internal construction" then this means that "balance" and "resistance" would affect the transmission. which also means every rock that gets stuck in the tire tread, people that drive on gravel roads, snow getting packed behind wheels, different weights of grease after a CV axle job, aftermarket CV boots and clamps which have different weights, and wheel bearings starting to fail - would all be BLOWING UP subaru transmissions left and right. it's completely erroneous. of course the old addage "don't be dumb" applies - like installing a wrong size tire or one that's blatantly off. but just use you're head and you'll be fine. I know a lady selling a set of 14" tires locally....want me to ask, LOL? i may be in NY City in a couple weeks, you can come get them. LOL Edited November 7, 2013 by grossgary 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 At the very least, you should have the same pair of tires of the front, and another pair on the rear. In other words don't put mismatched tires on the front, nor on the rear. this doesn't matter but that is incorrect. based on the way an open differential works - left and right does not matter. a 97 legacy brighton has no locking differentials or traction control. only one wheel on each axle is driven so the other is free to spin however it pleases. if you get an AWD/4WD vehicle stuck - only 2 wheels spin - one front and one rear due to the nature of open differentials. i have never done this nor do i recommend it, but shops around here install 2 new tires on a Subaru. they install one up front and one on the opposite side rear. technically that may work - with an open differential up front and in the rear - the two "driven" tires could be the same. so shops around here would do the opposite of what you said - two new tires - one up front, one in the rear. again - i haven't done it nor recommend it, just an example of how the mechanical systems actually work, which is often completely disregarded by online comments. that won't work on vehicles with limited slip rear differentials, but a 97 brighton doesn't have that. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nbe1210 Posted November 8, 2013 Author Share Posted November 8, 2013 Thanks for all the advice. I'll spend Saturday hunting for some used tires. Cross your fingers for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 If in doubt, tale the 2 matching tires and mount them diagonal. that way at least one rear and one front tire are the same rotation sepeed, and any difference in the other tires will be absorbed by the diff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 If in doubt, tale the 2 matching tires and mount them diagonal. that way at least one rear and one front tire are the same rotation sepeed, and any difference in the other tires will be absorbed by the diff shops around here do this, mentioned in my last reply. why can't the tires be on the same side? the only thing connecting the front and rear is the driveshaft, i can't see how it would "know" either way and thought maybe it was just better for traction..having a new tire on each side of the car. maybe it matters which side - like due to the ring gear or something? which side is generally the "driven wheel", if there is one? i don't know but i've always wondered that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nbe1210 Posted November 8, 2013 Author Share Posted November 8, 2013 I just remembered that I am heading to CT to my parents this Saturday night and came across this. I may be in luck. http://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/4118336701.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 (edited) hard to tell from pic's but they don't look like they have gobs of tread left. mount, balance, disposal and you're at $200+ for used tires. i spent 14 seconds looking but here's a new set for $180 + $40 shipping = $220:http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Fuzion&tireModel=Touring+%28H-+or+V-Speed+Rated%29&partnum=86HR4FZTOUR i know it's tight but if a new set is worth 2+ used sets the $100 is cheaper. that being said - you can talk a private seller down, can't do that with a company! i'd shoot for $80 mark...which they're probably planning on and then looking at $100 even. but not being to tell tread depth makes this all guessing... Edited November 8, 2013 by grossgary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 shops around here do this, mentioned in my last reply. why can't the tires be on the same side? the only thing connecting the front and rear is the driveshaft, i can't see how it would "know" either way and thought maybe it was just better for traction..having a new tire on each side of the car. maybe it matters which side - like due to the ring gear or something? which side is generally the "driven wheel", if there is one? i don't know but i've always wondered that. I suppose you could do either way. Perhaps it makes more sense to put the largest tires on the right side to make up for road crown. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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