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so it oil change time for my hatch and i wanted to ask some questions before I go get some oil and a filter.

Ok, so I think my oil pressure is low, what the spec's for it? I can't find it in my FSM (it might be missing some pages) or my owners manual. I also wanted to get your guys opinon on the new High mileage oils (like the Castroil(sp) GTX high mileage) and anybody still have the oil test links?

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I use STP filters in my Suby and my familys Subies. I run Havoline 10w40 in mine. My sis is using Castrol High Milage 10w40 in her car and it keeps the lifters quiet. I plan on switching to Castrol too when I get the engine rebuilt/replaced.

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I do run Castroil GTX 10w-30 I just wanted to see if the high mileage stuff was any good and if I should step up to 20w-50. and does anybody have the specs for the oil pressure, and the links for oil test page(s)?

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I use Purelator filters. Subaru used them for OEM filters so thats good 'nuf for me. Their PureONE filters are even nicer :) I also throw hard disk drive magnets on my filter. I run Castrol GTX. Only reasons was it came recomended, its fairly cheap (for name brand oil) and I've never had a reason not to like it yet. I've also ran Valvoline full synthetic in my old 472ci and had great results with that but the engine ran so hot that it actually utilized the high temp benifits of full synthetic.

 

I dont like the idea behind those high milage oils. I watched a little promotional deal on Valvoline's high milage deal. Basicly it coated your piston rings, cylinder walls, valve guildes, valve stems (and any other high temp part of the oil system?) with this coat of crap that makes everything seal better giving you lost and forgotton compression. I just dont like the idea of coating everything in crap to achieve this objective.

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Also, try a 1515 NAPA gold oil filter...its about 50% bigger than stock.

Man, the Ford filter (1515) would make me nervous! Don't know what the micron rating is on the paper media. It also has a built in bypass valve that kicks in at 8-11 psi, whereas the NAPA 1361 (correct by application) does not have a bypass. That leads me to believe that you might be running that 1515 in bypass mode some of the time (NO filtration). If you want a bigger filter, the 1647 is the same physical size as the 1515 with no bypass. Of course, if you subscribe to the bigger is better theory, you can also try the 1431 (5.638" long, no bypass), the 1512 (5.842", no bypass) or the 1773 (1 quart capacity, 6.982", 8-11 psi bypass).

 

OR, you could use the proper filter and change your oil regularly! :brow:

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For your oil pressure, get an oil pump reseal kit - $9 from the dealer, and takes about 30 minutes to install. It will help imensly.

 

GD

I wanted to see if I could find out if its low before I go tearing into the engine, which is why I wanted the specs for oil pressure for an EA-81
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My Chiltons says 57psi @ 2500RPM for the EA81.

 

Oil recommendation from my ’87 owners manual says, 5-30, 10-40, 20-50 for temps above 0degF and “5-30 is not recommended for sustained high speed driving”. But these numbers are for the EA-82.

Gary

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I don't know the specs, but a general rule of thumb is that you should have at least 10psi per 1000rpm. Soob engines can handle running at relatively low oil pressure without any damage, so as long as you've got pressure, it should be fine. An engine that I tore apart was barely at or below that 10psi rule, and it showed absolutely no indications of harm to bearings, etc...

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Are you sure those filters have the same threads? My 2004 filter book didnt list those...I'll have to look again...maybe you have an older book...?

Yeah, they all have the same threads. Look in the section "Lube and Hydraulic filters by thread size" - not at work so I can't give you page #. It's the new '04 book. The only variable on all those filters was gasket sealing area, but they all seem to be compatible with the 1361 size (bigger mostly, like the 1515).

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I know that when i went to 20w-50...i lost a rod bearing...and the rest of the engine as well.....but thats just me. seems like everyone else is running it and is never having a problem.

 

Presure at the filter....the pump pulls oil from the pan, and once its pulled, it goes thru the pump, and from the pump, its filtered and sent into the engine...the gauge reads over 45 psi at all times...unless its below 2000 RPM and its at op. temp. So....there must be that much presure at the filter, right? Or does the oil get another trip thu the pump....?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, the price difference and performance differences dont warrent the purchase of the 1515 over the 1361 that I can see...so I'll be sticking with the 1361 after my stock of one 1515 is used up. lol

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if your guage is good,30-40lbs ,steady readings you should be ok.things to bring up presure. new oil pump or new seal kit for oil pump,20-50wt. or stp. we used it 30 years ago to bring up oil presure in studabakers ,packards and even hilmans,its a band-aid but will get you lots of miles if used regular. take care todd

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i run a k&n filter with a bypass valve, and an antidrainback baffle. the bypass is used when the engine hits high rpm, otherwize the filter could starve your motor for oil, because of the restriction the filter makes.

 

mobile 1 all the way!

or castrol gtx if it leaks =]

mobile o is good and cheap too

 

no sustained high speeds with the stock oil huh? i'll have to look into that. with a 4 speed and an ea82, its always sustained high speeds.

 

if your engine is starved for oil, your lifters will be the first to start screaming at you. thats the foolproof guage.

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I was under the impression that ALL oil filters have bypass valves and anti-drainback baffles. Some don't work as good as others unfortunately (fram). I was looking at the K&N's the other day. The quality looks good.

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