Robbman Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Is this a pretty simple job if I wanted to replace it myself? I have limited mechanical experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 very easy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxerRebellion Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Typically, yes. Easy. Everything is pretty straight forward. Be able to safely lift the rig. Use a punch to bash out the retaining pin that holds the CV to the tranny. Possess the proper axle nut socket to pull 'er off. Possess the proper socket to unbolt the control arm nut. Then... Rip it out. Take new one, put it back in. There's plenty of youtube videos that'll give you the know-how to do this job comfotably. If you're not comfortable, find a buddy to help. Since you own a Soobie, this is a good job to know how to do. Best of luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 drive shaft or C/V axle? drive shaft is super easy 4 12mm and 2 14mm. see above post for C/V Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Drive shaft is 6 bolts and a hammer to tap it loose. 1. Disconnect the 4 12mm bolts that hold it to the rear differential. (A wrench will reach where a socket will not) 2. Disconnect the 2 14mm bolts that hold the carrier joint to the body. 3. If it doesn't come off on it's own, tap the rear of the driveshaft loose from the diff with a hammer and maybe a flathead screwdriver to knock it loose. 4. Pull back on the driveshaft and let is slide out the rear of the transmission. 5. Reverse the process to install the replacement. The only way this job would be difficult is if the bolts are really rusty. A little PB blaster or WD40 helps if the bolts are difficult - particularly the ones that bolt to the body of the car. If you have wrenches and can follow, righty-tighty, lefty-loosey you can do this job in an hour. Happy wrenching! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbman Posted November 9, 2013 Author Share Posted November 9, 2013 Thanks for all the replies, I got it off and am ready to put new (used) one on. When I picked up the replacement shaft at the salvage yard the guy there told me to drill a 1/8" hole in the side of each u-joint, inject with grease, and seal with silicone and it should last a lot longer. Has anyone done this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Can I ask what your symptoms are for replacing the driveshaft? The reason is I get a lot of rotational clunking when I drive, however it goes away when I put it in 4LO or 4HI... Wondering if the driveshaft just needs replaced? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbman Posted November 9, 2013 Author Share Posted November 9, 2013 Can I ask what your symptoms are for replacing the driveshaft? The reason is I get a lot of rotational clunking when I drive, however it goes away when I put it in 4LO or 4HI... Wondering if the driveshaft just needs replaced? Yes that was what I was getting. One of the u-joint seals had deteriorated. If you haven't already, check your drive-shaft to make sure it is secure and all joints are in tact. Catch it early while it is an easy fix or else it will be a lot more painful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Sweet, thanks a ton! Best of luck on your driveshaft swap! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 i've done the same thing on ER timing belt pulleys - pry the lib seal up and inject them with grease. works great. the only reason they fail really is due to lack of grease...get some fresh grease in there and they're good to go, feel like new. i'd expect the same with a driveshaft needle bearings but i've never done it...though now i'm tempted to! if there's enough room on the driveshaft you could get a zerk fitting and thread it in place instead of silicone. test it on your old shaft first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 I inherited an ea82 driveshaft that had zerk fittongs on theu-joints. i don't know if the joints came that way, or if the guy who installed them modified them. But it can be done as my driveshaft is an example Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 I inherited an ea82 driveshaft that had zerk fittongs on theu-joints. i don't know if the joints came that way, or if the guy who installed them modified them. But it can be done as my driveshaft is an examplePossible that someone replaced the u-joints. AutoZone has Duralast p/n 2-0430DL $20.00 each for replacements, come with zerk in them. If the cap seals are a reddish color, chances are they are those. CARQUEST also lists greasable u-joints for the EA82s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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