babyfacefitz Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 The 2002 OBW has 138000, and I can hear the bad bearing. (drifting in one direction much louder than the other direction) Should I replace the hub ($150 at stealership) or get the bearing pressed in ($50 part and $60 press labor). The machine shop said there might be more than one bearing? I assume it easier to get a new hub, correct? I has trouble with the 32 mm nut on end. Got the "cotter dent" out but no budging yet with 3 foot breaker bar. plan to let pb blaster work for now. Thanks Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Not sure you, I, and your mechanic are all on the same page... There is a bearing unit that presses into the knuckle. Hub gets yanked out of the bearing after removing the big nut. Bearing unit gets pressed out of the knuckle (several steps skipped) The new bearing unit gets pressed into the knuckle, and your hub gets pulled out of the old bearing and pressed into the new bearing after the bearing is installed in the knuckle. A new hub must be used if the old one shows any sign of damage or spinning in the bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babyfacefitz Posted November 9, 2013 Author Share Posted November 9, 2013 Thanks Dave, I thought the housing (knuckle) for the bearing was the hub. Is there only one bearing to replace? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upnorthguy Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 I think this diagram from opposedforces shows your set up for reference: 1-inner oil seal 4-front axle bearing 2/3- front bearing housing ("knuckle") 5-outer oil seal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 Since you live in St Louis, wrecking yards in your area should be able to provide a good used hub for you. The last one I bought at a yard in Indy cost $75, complete with bearings and seals. Don't know, if when you buy one from a dealer at a cost of $150, if it is empty, or complete with new bearing and seals. Any one on this forum know the answer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babyfacefitz Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 what do you guys recommend for getting the lower control arm off the treaded stud? There is a rubber seal that makes the use of a pickle fork not usable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 I do them in place remove axle I undo the two large 19 mm bolts on rear of control arm and the long bolt in front then arm can be moved to remove axle. Also check hud for exsess wear on its surface were it seats into berring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 I figure with 2 subes I'm going to be doing jobs more than once, I bought ther harbor freight ball-joint popper that has a fork and presses on the stud when you tighten a bolt. Pops tie-rod ends loose too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babyfacefitz Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 The pitman pullers at the local store didn't do it. A jack pushing up and the 2x4 on top of the control arm coming down did it. What is the tread size on the ball joint studs? My m12x1.5 and m12x1.75 didn't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Undoing the ball joint last resort for me run into tons of problems messing with those bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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