Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 This is backwards That would be the dealer installed system. GL-10s had it factory and the pump is outboard of the Alt. Your GL had it added at the dealership. Very Kindly let me tell you, Gloyale: in my own humble opinion, you have the info Backwards. The Inboard A/C compressors are the Factory installed ones; the outboard A/C compressors are the Dealer installed ones. So, in order to stop the confusion, Trident and I found this: inboard A/C compressor = Factory A/C with two V Belts = Waterpump with 110 mm tall shaft. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 But I'm open minded to any other Ideas / Info \ Documents that might proof otherwise... So, correct me if I'm wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 Dealer systems were hitachi, and are inboard. Factory systems were Panasonic/matsushita and are outboard with the exception of 85 early 86 were BOTH systems were inboard of the ALT. Just goin by the Factory Service manuals. Basically if it's not an XT or a GL-10 , you use the 110. If not then someone has swapped engines which happens all the time by now see cars with carb blocks with SPFI and MPFI turbo cars neutered w/ SPFI block etc. Subarus are like a Box of Chocolates.........that's all I've got to say about that 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 (edited) Thank you for Clarifying! My Subaru "BumbleBeast" EA82 is year model 1985 Also, Trident's Subie is... ... my '86 GL ... ... 1986, So we both have Inboard Factory A/C. That explains it. Kind Regards. Edited November 22, 2013 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trident Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 (edited) One quick bit of info, I answered my own question concerning which Aisin pump was which. The WPF007 is the 105mm while the WPF003 is the 110mm. Comparison pic here: Edited November 25, 2013 by Trident 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Thank you for the Comparison Photo. That means that you've received the Wrong (Shorter = 105 mm) one, isn't it? Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trident Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Yessir, it does. The Aisin pumps look to have the shaft size stamped on the pulley. You may be able to see the "105" stamped on this picture. Now if they would just list that in the part description... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Again: Thanks for the Photo and Data. Sorry to read that you was given the wrong one... Might I ask you, if you could return it and obtain the right one instead? Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 going to be doing a water pump fix soon. I have an old gl-10 pump (shorter) I was going to use. Aside from possibly wearing out the belt quicker beacuse it's shorter, what other problems could arise. They both pump the same ammount of water, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 The difference between the 105mm and 110mm pump is merely which pulley it uses. 110mm for studded pulley, 105mm for bolt-on pulley. that is all. Regardless of application, you can use either or water pumps as long as you have the associated pulley for that pump. mixing and matching pulley for one pump on the other will ruin the studs or the holes on the pulley, and will fall apart, or have a misaligned belt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 Any pics of the correct pulley for each pump, I never knew there was a differance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe's photos Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 Ouch. back on topic. I had a spare 105mm in stock, yet pulled a 110mm out of my V belt baby. I no longer have the bits to pull it to 110mm. Figured will keep 105mm as spare for my never had AC AX7 XT-T as it is 4PK ribbed flat belt and 105mm. Go to try order/look online is giving me 2006 memories of being told my AC RXA will be 105mm pay ten bucks more and it turns out being V belt it is 110mm. So, deck heights are not big in specs in all these sellers that noy have stock, just have listig to sell me then find part quickly.... 2024 and there are more water pumps available than there are L Series and EA82 in the country Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe's photos Posted May 25 Share Posted May 25 Overnight, I entered some typical known parameters I have for one of my still factory EA82T with 4PK flat rib drive accessory belt, entered them into a computer and out spat the 3033 part number used in Australia will fit your vehicle. Further checks in store, in person to like minded thinking person, two stores, independent of each other, both confirm 3033 is for 110mm deck/hub height. The vehicle runs a 105mm pump. I turned the tables and entered generic early carb EA82 Leone and out spat 3034 which we use for the 105mm pump. The chosen car runs a 110mm pump. Nothing has changed in decades and I don't care. It just lends for stories of people with EA82 supply all detail at retail level and get wrong pump, delay, delay, denial.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigar Posted August 18 Share Posted August 18 (edited) **** EDIT 8/16/2024 2am I measured this water pump and it is 110mm hub height, as stated @ Rock Auto. *** so it's not what my problem is, in fact a solution would be to pull/move this hub 5mm higher/forward for the it's pulley to align with the crank pulley .. So there might not be much value in the rest of this post except for the reference images showing the difference between the hub positions of the 110mm and the 105mm.. ========= Grrr, I bought what is supposed to be a "Dayco DP1081 Info Lobed Hub, Hub Height Approximately 4.320" +/- .020"; V-Belt Driven 110mm hub/deck height" from rockauto - and all 4 of their offerings are supposed to be 110mm ... Tomorrow all try to go over to where the car is and measure it.... like I should have the day it arrived.. BUT their pictures of the ones with 105MM hub height LOOKS LIKE THE HUB IS WAY FURTHER DOWN on the SHAFT.. So the one they sent me probably is a 110mm . https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1994,loyale,1.8l+h4,1270178,cooling+system,water+pump,2208 and putting it all back together, installed radiator and put on my thin pulley (Hitachi inboard AC, non tubo) and it's sitting about 5 mm too close to the pump and doesn't line up with crankshaft pulley. Dayco DP1081 Info Lobed Hub, Hub Height Approximately 4.320" +/- .020"; V-Belt Driven below are a couple of images of Rock autos 105MM hub height (from 1988 GL) LOOKS LIKE THE HUB IS WAY FURTHER DOWN on the SHAFT?. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1988,gl,1.8l+h4,1268513,cooling+system,water+pump,2208 so maybe my crankshaft pulley is sitting too high or something weird - or maybe it's been this way ever since I bought the car in 2017 - OR I messed somthing up and flipped a crancksaft sprocket when I did the timing belts & water pump in 2019. My crankshaft pulley is pressing right up against the timing belt sprocket and is held on with one big bolt (no washer) torqued to 140 ft/lbs. BUT my timing belt sprocket on the crankshaft does seem to be sticking out bout his far from the end of the crankshaft. this is when I was doing the timing belts in 2019 so maybe I got crankshaft timing belt sprockets reversed or flipped - and it DOES look like they are sticking out about 5mm beyond the end of the crank? Backside of crankshaft pulley 20240809 Here's another great "zen art of Subaru maintenance" showing him pulling of these sprockets/gears.. both his "protection disks" are facing the crank https://youtu.be/QCnmC2gZahs?t=231 I'm pondering that I must have put the crankshaft timing belt sprockets in backwards when I did the timing belts & water pump in 2018 ... I noticed the gunked dried oil "teeth/notch marks" on the landing in the first pic below .. and in the 2nd pic the teeth are facing the crank's landing (it's probably wrong), in my pics above the "protection disk" that prevents the belt from coming off is facing the landing (on the crank) and that looks correct - but maybe each one is different and I stacked them backwards? this was probably the wrong way... and it was NOT reassembled (with teeth facing the engine) this way. otherwise I guess I need the THICK pulley, or maybe a short gear puller that can pull the hub forward and work just by pulling the radiator back out (to have enough room for woking the gear puller)? I've read about using washers and wish there was some kind of a single part spacer... I can't find this thick pulley here or digging around on the web.... I DON'T want to R & R this water pump. Thank you all Edited August 19 by Craigar more details .. and discovery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe's photos Posted August 19 Share Posted August 19 (edited) Do you remember what I wrote somewhere in one of the other water pump posts? Same poo happened to me, with my Rock order, an advertised imperial measurement listing, converts roughly to metric 110mm, came as an -s on the part number, turned out to be the 105mm variety. I got in before the return date and got a 99% refund from them. I got the same uhuh? moment when my pulleys "lined" up just the same as your photos. Down under, we have metal supply shops with round discs for sale, to be used for whatever - plugging ends of pipes, weld in, weld on style etc. 5mm thick flat steel, punched out at 57mm The 57mm fits perfectly inside the water pump pulley of the V belt style, pressed steel pulley. I set about marking out the centre hole and four holes for the mounting bolts/studs. Job done, a 5mm spacer makes a 105mm pump into a 110mm deck height pump. I bet you are outside your return date, due to your ill health before. The one thing that irked me more than having to fix someones muck-up was the diameter of the shaft of the new Dayco pump differed from that of the old brand unknown pump ( still about - I could go out and look) When I made my spacer, I measured the old pump shaft diameter assuming it would be the same as the new. It was not. New pump shaft dia was a bit less, and so a bit sloppy on the pulleys hole and the hole in my spacer. The set up I had, did not really have enough length on new pump shaft outside the flange to get 5mm spacer and 2mm of pulley to actually sit nice on the shaft ... Edited August 19 by Steptoe's photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe's photos Posted August 19 Share Posted August 19 (edited) Hey, I also got caught on the distance between flange and body when I looked and compared by eye. The body of the castings differ between brands. I was just looking for a greater distance between flange to body when inspecting new, saw it was greater than my other wrong pump ( Ihave 105mm in stock, so did not need more with a wait from USA !!. How easy was it just to measure the flipping thing for correctness ? Too easy, yet I did it by eye. An illusion due to different casting dimensions. So, if you can make a disc 57mm dia, 5mm thick, measure up about 16mm hole in centre, about 6.5mm holes for studs, slip it in, you will be sorted. At this stage, I can see you are looking too far outside the box Edited August 19 by Steptoe's photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe's photos Posted August 19 Share Posted August 19 I have used a press in the past to alter between 105 and 110, vice versa, but no longer have such a big press, could not do the job. Besides, like me, you did not want to do an R & R ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigar Posted August 21 Share Posted August 21 Steptoe's, since my problem is not the stock water pump height I'm staring a new topic hopefully to help others with this kind of a problem (and help my patience and sanity) and will paste in your good ideas.. I've painfully learned more - but luckily not *the hard way* so far https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/185922-shimming-water-pump-pulley-to-align-with-crankshaft-pulley-only-need-3-5-mm/ Thanks Craig 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azdave Posted August 21 Share Posted August 21 On 8/18/2024 at 8:20 PM, Steptoe's photos said: I have used a press in the past to alter between 105 and 110, vice versa, but no longer have such a big press, could not do the job. Besides, like me, you did not want to do an R & R ..... Same here. Past owner got the length wrong, Rock Auto got the length wrong, vendors don't care to pay attention and then I got smart and realized it was the same pump body and shaft length involved. All I had to do was pull or press the mounting face to the correct distance. I hope the spacer works out. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigar Posted August 22 Share Posted August 22 finished the shimming, added more images https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/185922-shimming-water-pump-pulley-to-align-with-crankshaft-pulley-only-need-3-5-mm/ time will tell - but don't have time to be able put everything else back together and test drive for at least 3 weeks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe's photos Posted August 29 Share Posted August 29 On 8/22/2024 at 8:06 PM, Craigar said: finished the shimming, added more images https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/185922-shimming-water-pump-pulley-to-align-with-crankshaft-pulley-only-need-3-5-mm/ time will tell - but don't have time to be able put everything else back together and test drive for at least 3 weeks here is one week of waiting, over and done with Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigar Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 (edited) Well before I had to go on a "work furlough" to the east coast, I discovered another problem - the right side (by alternator) intake manifold is leaking coolant, which I suspected for a few years.. and the back long bolt is stuck / frozen - and so are the 2 long ones on the passenger/left side also... I soaked them with liquid wrench before I went to the airport. Edited September 1 by Craigar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe's photos Posted September 7 Share Posted September 7 following .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydube Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 I had better experience with the water pumps that had what looked like cast iron impellars. The thinner bent steel impellars did not last as long. Also, be sure and caulk the small top hole in the water pump in order to keep dirt and grime out of the bearing/seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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