Weber conversion, adapter issues, and intake questions?

[justajester]

hello again all, I know I keep asking question son the weber swap but, I'm confused about a few new things now that I have the kit. First off, the adapter plate seems to be off center. As you can see in the below picture, the actual intake port is where the red is. The adapter port opens where the black arrows are. so between the arrows and the red, the is the lip of the intake manifold sticking out. Is that normal or did I get a bad adapter?

 

 

 

Can I remove the parts circled in red in the 2 pictures below?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And the last picture, can I plug holes 1 and 2? and is the tube the 3rd arrow pointing at for the heater core or should I plug that too?

 

Edited November 13, 2013 by justajester

[TomRhere]

I have blended the port opening of the manifold and adapter. Best to have the small coolant hole in the front of the carb port on the manifold welded shut, it's not needed for the Weber.

 

 

You can remove those two thermal vacuum switches.

 

 

Not sure what those 2 sensors are for, don't recall them on my EA81 manifold.

 

 

#1 should be temp sensor for the dash gage.

#2 is port for the tube from the head for the EGR. Can be plugged if you delete EGR, but there is no real reason to do so. Doesn't really effect engine performance.

#3 is heater core tube, kinda need that.

Edited November 13, 2013 by TomRhere

[justajester]

what do you mean blended the manifold and adapter? Should i grind it with a dremel? Is it ok to leave it the way it is?

[justajester]

Oh, is it ok to jb weld the manifold? Will there be a problem if i leave it open?

[jono]

That hole tends to leak coolant outside or inside to air ports. I drill them out and tap to something M12 coz I think hole is already too big for an M10 thread. Shove on some thread tape, gunk to really seal it off. Threebond is good

[TomRhere]

what do you mean blended the manifold and adapter? Should i grind it with a dremel? Is it ok to leave it the way it is?

Dremel works very well. I used some small stones in my cordless drill.

You can leave it as is, but I prefer to blend things for a better flow. I also used an EA82 intake instead of the EA81, just because there is a larger carb port in the EA82. Not a "got to do it thing".

 

 

Oh, is it ok to jb weld the manifold? Will there be a problem if i leave it open?

Been a few Members post that they used JB Weld and some screen (as fill) to plug that coolant port.

We have a heli-arc at work and a guy that really knows how to use it, so I had mine welded shut.

 

Again, you can leave it be, but there is the chance of a coolant leak. Some do, some don't.

[ferox]

Can I remove the parts circled in red in the 2 pictures below?

 

 

IMG_20131112_175116.jpg

Those are both thermo vacuum valves that can be removed

 

 

 IMG_20131112_175146.jpg

One of those is the sensor for you dash gauge, probably not the yellow one.  Not sure on the yellow one.

 

 

And the last picture, can I plug holes 1 and 2? and is the tube the 3rd arrow pointing at for the heater core or should I plug that too?

 

IMG_20131112_175156.jpg

Hole #2 is the inlet for the EGR hard line from the head.  It provides the EG in the EGR.  If you are not using the EGR, then it can be plugged.  As Tom mentioned the pipe looks like heater core, not sure on hole 1.

 

I have used JB weld whenever I plugged the coolant port and it has worked well.  Just make sure you get the coolant hole really clean.  If I were going to do it again, I would probably tap it and plug it.

Edited November 14, 2013 by ferox

[ferox]

I was giving my ea81 a major tune yesterday and checked out my manifold setup.  I think I steered you wrong a bit.  I think the yellow sensor is for your dash gauge.  I originally thought the other sensor in that picture was a two-wire, but now I see that it is one-wire.  

 

Also, the #1 hole is for another one-wire coolant sensor.  I have never known where either of the two one-wire sensors you have pictured have gone.  I always assumed since I have a California feedback car that they went to some part of the original emission controls, but I have never known for sure.  If I have time I will try to find them in my FSM.

 

[EDIT]  this was bugging me so I had to look it up.  As I suspected both of the one-wire sensors are thermoswitches for the emissions control system.  The sensor next to the dash gauge sensor gave feedback to some emissions vacuum switches and the sensor in the #1 hole gave feedback for cold starting.  I will be removing both from my manifold next time I drain it.

Edited November 16, 2013 by ferox

[justajester]

Thanks for all the help. I actually took a look at my old manifold and none of that stuff was on there...so i just plugged almost everything lol. But if i find a use for the holes later on, i can always unplug. Now if i can just figure out the wiring. Anyone know about wiring the weber carb? I have a 3 wire harness that is attached to the choks, ads, and the bowl vent. I can hook up the ads but do i cut off the bowl vent solenoid or?

[ferox]

Thanks for all the help. I actually took a look at my old manifold and none of that stuff was on there...so i just plugged almost everything lol. But if i find a use for the holes later on, i can always unplug. Now if i can just figure out the wiring. Anyone know about wiring the weber carb? I have a 3 wire harness that is attached to the choks, ads, and the bowl vent. I can hook up the ads but do i cut off the bowl vent solenoid or?

 

Yeah you can cut off the bowl vent solenoid, just make sure the cut end of the live wire does not touch anything metal on the engine or it will complete a circuit and can draw enough amps to blow a fuse.