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My DL 1989


Tronkus
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Hi guys:

 

Finally i can get my own subaru  :D . Buy a DL '89 in excellent condition. I want to make some changes on him:

 

-2" Lift

 

-Change tyres and rims

 

-New painting

 

-Etc.

 

 

 

Some pictures:

 
thump_8707533wp000231.jpg
 
thump_8707535wp000233.jpg
 
thump_8707538wp000234.jpg
 
Greetings from Chile!
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  • 7 months later...

Hi Guys:

 

I continue with the project (Subaru DL EA82 1800cc). Actually:

 

-Tyres changed.

 

-Plugs, wires, filters and breakes are replaced.

 

-Block re sealed and change the coolant.

 

Next steps:

 

-New Painting

 

-New Interiors

 

-2" Lift (I can't find nothing in my country)

 

-Change gearbox.

 

-Change wheels (13" to 14")

 

Some pictures:

 

2659785a8e5661c158d01cabb6848d41o.jpg

 

8a9124ff7c6eb2f44e8abf49585df8d5o.jpg

 

9aa7fa8c0e6ecb76b7486fc898eb997fo.jpg

 

Greetings from Chile!

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Hi guys:

 

I still trying to repair my car. But i have a problem. The car make a sound constantly like a bee. It's not the engine, because i check the engine and the sound is in the rear and maybe it's the fuel pump...¿it's in the fuel tank?

 

-The engine still vibrating at low rpm...i change the filters, clean the injector, check the vacuum but still happening...any ideas? (Thanks JesZek for the advices)

 

Greetings

Edited by Tronkus
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The fuel pump can be noisey if it is failing or aged, and may vary in pitch when operating the turn indicators. The fuel pump is mounted external to the fuel tank, and will be easy to service. You can replace it with any in-line pump unit, like that for a FORD with dual fuel tanks.

 

If the engine is vibrating at idle, the timing belt may be off a notch. Many You can verify this by removing just the outer belt covers, but will have to take the middle cover out to correct it (many of us leave the belt covers off as it makes inspecting and future service so much easier, and there is little chance for the belt to skip when exposed, and if so, replacing the belt only requires 2 tools with no covers.

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The fuel pump can be noisey if it is failing or aged, and may vary in pitch when operating the turn indicators. The fuel pump is mounted external to the fuel tank, and will be easy to service. You can replace it with any in-line pump unit, like that for a FORD with dual fuel tanks.

 

If the engine is vibrating at idle, the timing belt may be off a notch. Many You can verify this by removing just the outer belt covers, but will have to take the middle cover out to correct it (many of us leave the belt covers off as it makes inspecting and future service so much easier, and there is little chance for the belt to skip when exposed, and if so, replacing the belt only requires 2 tools with no covers.

 

Just so I am clear on this. What are the two tools?

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As MilesFox wrote, the Fuel Pump is outside the Tank and easy to Change, look at it next to the Tank. It also could be Loose and / or having a clogged Fuel Filter issue.

 

Worth starting by Changing the Fuel Filter...

 

 

...Thanks JesZek for the advices...

 

Those were on Private Messages...

 

You're Welcome!

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As MilesFox wrote, the Fuel Pump is outside the Tank and easy to Change, look at it next to the Tank. It also could be Loose and / or having a clogged Fuel Filter issue.

 

Worth starting by Changing the Fuel Filter...

 

 

 

Those were on Private Messages...

 

You're Welcome!

JesZek:
 
I change the fuel filter, but the fuel pump it's too expensive!! (at least here). what other alternatives i have?
 
Greetings
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Honestly, if the Fuel Pump is getting bad, it could left you stranded in the Middle of Nowhere, so your only "Cheap" alternative to a Genuine, brand New Subaru Fuel Pump, was already pointed by MilesFox: Use one for a Dual Tank Ford, it also is External and could come from a Junk Yard Car.

 

Kind Regards.

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Honestly, if the Fuel Pump is getting bad, it could left you stranded in the Middle of Nowhere, so your only "Cheap" alternative to a Genuine, brand New Subaru Fuel Pump, was already pointed by MilesFox: Use one for a Dual Tank Ford, it also is External and could come from a Junk Yard Car.

 

Kind Regards.

 
Edit: I called a previous owner and tell me that the fuel pump installed in my car is from a Peugeot. Which one is the original fuel pump for my car? (number). i found a Bosch alternative, but i need to compare with the original.
 
Greetings
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OK, in that case, let me Quote here another post from another Thread:
 

Just about any fuel injection pump that mounts outside the tank will work. It has to make 21 psi - the stock SPFI pump makes 50 psi dead-head. I beleive a lot of folks have had luck with Ford F150 pumps from years that mount to the frame rail and they are reasonably priced if you want a new one. Do a search and you'll find posts detailing these.

GD

 

 

Also, the in-line external Fuel Pump that Napa sells for the Dual Tank Ford F-150, and other EFi vehicles, has Part # 2p74028, you only need to change the 3/8" nipple in one side, with a 5/16" one.

 

Kind Regards.

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Good to know! I had a bad fuel pump and with no junk yards having any locally, I asked the parts stores $$$$ hundreds for a little electric pump! soaked the old pump in acetone for a week and dissolved the varnish. done! lucky that time, now I have a spare just in case.

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If the spark comes through the cable, the piston that does not work usually is due to a Damaged or failing spark plug, in which case I kindly suggest you to change them all, and Forget spending a lot on "Luxury" spark plugs, such as platinum, iridium, etc ... the best for Subaru EA series engines are the NGK, these come with them from Factory.

Search: NGK BPR6EY11

The letter "Y" have a groove that supposedly adds to the spark, however if instead of "Y" they has another letter, nevermind, while the rest of the numbering remains the same.

That noise or rattle you described on private message, on these engines usually is emited by the Hydraulic Lifters, when the oil pressure is insufficient and / or there is air entering the oil through the seal, shaped as "Mickey Mouse" head; which goes between the oil pump and the engine block. A particular sound that we know here as the "Tick of Death", which however does not kill the engine, only the hydraulic lifters themselves.

In any case, you can do a chemical "Flush" to the engine, using a good quality detergent, to clean its internals and tiny oil passages, and use good quality motor oil after that.
For information regarding motor oils, additives and the Flush, read this writeup:

 

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/126284-how-to-determine-which-is-the-best-motor-oil-for-your-car/

 

What oil do you use?

Best regards.

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Well, I suggest you to start by taking out the spark plug from the failing piston, and exchange it with the spark plug from another piston to see if the problem changes location; in that case, the Spark Plug itself would be problem...

If not, it could be that you have exchanged the wires by mistake... or in the worst scenario, that said failing piston has burnt valves; in such case you'll need to do a compression test.

Kind Regards.

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  • 3 months later...

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