2011 Tribeca 130amp ALT. retrofit into 95' Legacy

[Bushwick]

My alt. had noisy bearings so figured it'd be a good time to swap in something bigger in case I ever decide to get around to upgrading the stereo. The only 130 amp Subaru I could find come in the 3.6L 6 cylinder cars.  

 

Anyways, found one from a 2011 Tribeca with 35k miles for $75! Seemed like a great deal considering the rebuilt 85 amp is roughly the same price and this 130 amp monster is easily 3 times more expensive new or rebuilt. It needed an ear ground down to clear the adjustable bracket, and 2 high spots lowered to clear the other side of adjustable bolt block. The eyelets for the charge wire needed widening too to accommodate the larger post (10 sec job with drill bit on slow speed). The charge wire clips needed loosened to give extra slack since the charge wire bolt is in a different spot (about 2" further left). Other than that, it's a direct fit physically. The serpentine belt on the Tribeca *IS* a rib or 2 wider, but interestingly enough, after installing the factory belt it sat in the proper grooves (just an extra rib hanging out not being used). It seems to be tracking straight even at higher rpm so not going to bother with swapping the smaller ribbed pulley at this time, though a 1/4" OD difference can cause issues (like not spinning fast enough at idle to kick "ON" and actually charge), but they looked fairly similar. Also forgot to measure the pulley shaft diameter to see if they sit on the same shaft or not. This 130 amp unit, despite being very similar physically, definitely has some weight to it. Must have been a real feat squeezing all those extra windings in there Can't wait to drive at night with every single thing turned on and not so much as a dimming dash light (pet peeve)

 

The biggest difference is the electrical connector for the Tribeca had 3 prongs, whereas the factory alt. has 2. I checked both on wires with engine running and both saw battery voltage, though one wire is clearly a heavier gauge. SO.... I need to know a couple things:

 

1. I know the one wire is the "ON" source to kick the alternator charging on. What's the 2nd wire for? Heavy gauge is white, smaller gauge is black.

 

2. The alt has 3 prongs to connect to, any idea what's what? Can I get away with just running 1-2 wire to get it "ON"? Pretty sure I can, but I'd like to know what the 3rd wire was for? This type of alternator came out around 2010 in anything with a 3.6L. I dunno if it's physically the same as the 90 amp in the smaller engine cars.

Edited November 26, 2013 by Bushwick

[Bushwick]

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=9631

 

OK, if I'm understanding the 95 Legacy's connectors, one wire is the field on, other wire should be for dummy light? Then, the Tribeca has a 3 wire setup, where I'm just going to ignore the 3rd wire. In that image above, the center prong is the field ON connector, right? And the far right is the dash warning light?

Edited November 27, 2013 by Bushwick

[Fairtax4me]

Edit: it looks like on the later models they changed the wiring a bit. The 3rd wire is a 6.5v feed to the ECU. Probably don't need to hook that up.

Edited November 27, 2013 by Fairtax4me

[Bushwick]

Seems the car runs fine with just the 1 wire hooked up. Didn't get any warning lights either. If you are looking down at the 3 pronged connector with the alt installed, the prong furthest right (closest to actual charge wire post) is the one that kicks this unit on. Took it out for an hour long drive down the snowiest roads I could find with every accessory on and it didn't miss a beat. Stopped a couple times to check voltage and always around 15v. Still can't believe how lucky to be able to use the Tribeca's wider pulley and still have the grooves that matter line up. Didn't hear any belt slippage either. 

 

So, if you want to retrofit one of these 130 amp (2010-2013) alternators to replace the tiny 85-90 amp, look for a 3.6L whatever as these are apparently exclusive to that engine. A few minor mods and it's in and working! Keep in mind it'll parasite an extra HP or 2 when it's charging and weighs a couple pounds heavier.

[AdventureSubaru]

Great idea. Can you post up some pics of the fit? Not a bad idea for those of us running fog lights etc.

[eulogious]

I know you can get direct replacement, brand new HO (140amps) alts for between $200-250 new that just bolt right in with no mods needed http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/hiou195ampsu.html .  But it looks like a new beca alt is $250, but the rebuilts are around $125, if you trust a non-oem rebuilt alt that is (and I don't, unless it's rebuilt by a local, well known shop and that will cost more than $125 most likely).  My guess is that an oem-rebuld is probably going to cost about $200+, about the same price as the HO alt designed to fit into the car.

 

Finding one used for cheap is one thing, finding a source for a 130+amp alt for around $100 brand new (or rebuilt properly) consistently would be a god send and well worth the effort to "retrofit" it into the car.  Otherwise once the beca alt fails, and it surely will at some point, it's $200ish for a new/rebuilt one (or to have it rebuilt by a local shop), and for that price I would rather just slap in an alt that is designed to just slap in and go, IMHO.

 

But it's good to know that you can make it fit though!

Edited November 27, 2013 by eulogious

[Bushwick]

I'll try and get a quick video up in a bit with it running and showing voltage. There were a bunch of these in the $50-75 range on car-part.com. This one was actually listed at $35, but they wanted a core and shipping. Told the guy the cost of shipping core back would negate the core charge for me making it a wash, so he worked out a deal of $75 shipped ($25 alt; $25 ship; $25 core). Doing the math, even a "high" mileage 2010-2013, you should easily get a few years out of it, but realistically 10-15k a year means you get one with some life left. This was listed at 35k miles roughly, so it was a no brainer. They aren't all "listed" as 130 amp models in the computers since it was the only option amperage with the 3.6L, meaning "they" see them as just another Subaru alternator   

 

The biggest mod was grinding a small bit of the case's ear where it bolts to the adjustable bracket. I used a dremel with reinforced cut off wheel and carefully ground away the offending section (cut off wheel on aluminum works 10X better and FASTER than a typical grinding wheel that clogs) Other option would be working the edge of the bracket instead which isn't visible from front of car. It's just a slight casing reinforcement that's angled and prevents the alt from sitting flush on the adjustable bracket. Either way, I'm happy with how it fit and still smiling over the fact you can keep the factory pulley on it. Though, I'll measure it's OD when I take a pic just to be sure it's the same. If the factory pulley *HAS* a smaller OD (even barely) then the 130 amp unit, running the smaller pulley would give more amperage at idle, just have to be careful you aren't over exceeding the MAX rpm of the alt, which is possible if say the donor car had a 6" crank pulley, but your car has a 6.5" crank pulley =alt spins faster. I didn't bother doing the math with this one. If anyone running a 3.6L has a moment, measure the outside diameter of your crank pulley so we can compare with ours. If it wasn't such a PITA to remove the nut for the alt pulley, I'd be able to measure and and see if they interchange or not, but you need an air compressor to get those off. Looking at the snout where the shaft exits the alt housing, one protrudes a little more, which might cause issues with belt alignment if you tried reusing the thinner ribbed pulley, assuming the pulleys are even swap able. The nuts sit flush with the threading, making it difficult to get an exact measurement w/o removing, as even a few hundredths difference can be an issue.

Edited November 27, 2013 by Bushwick

[Fairtax4me]

Entirely possible the smaller pulley will not fit on the 130 shaft, it may not even clear the case around the front bearing. Alignment may not be correct either, but may be able to be shimmed out or in a little bit if needed with a washer or by filing the pivot ear a little.

[Bushwick]

^ I'll check eventually, but with holiday and the fact it's working, not concerned but will definitely update eventually. Here's a video of it running:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXsxw9gKhog

 

 

Near the end, I'm pointing the flashlight at the little block the bolt goes through from the front. It comes REALLY close to the casing, so massage the edges on the casing or remove the block and file back to clear. From the top down view, you only need to grind the radius from the support, and nothing else. Took me less than 10 minutes. Looks more severe with lighting from flashlight. Was snowing really hard when I was doing it and didn't have time to be perfect. Also, as you can see the belt tracks correctly. I've got the belt sorta tight (maybe a 1/4" play). It's yet to squeal and this belt is rather old looking and dry. Probably due to be replaced.

Edited November 28, 2013 by Bushwick

[Caboobaroo]

This is a great idea, especially for the older H6 engines as they run a similar multi rib belt. I've actually been looking at doing a retrofit in my XT6 with one from a 3.0 but more amps the better!

[Bushwick]

I'm glad this benefited the community at large   It's nice to be able to give something back to fellow members that have been super helpful getting this car winter and road ready.  

 

Just remembered, you *might* need to fiddle with the idle speed slightly if it's not compensating enough. I know on mine there's 2 ways to get the idle up w/o messing with electronics, either adjust the throttle cable's slack, OR adjust the set screw on the underside of the throttle stop. Mine has a center screw with an 8mm nut. Can just loosen the nut, turn bolt with flat head, then tighten the nut while holding bolt still with screw driver. Recommend setting emergency brake or blocking the wheels, put car in drive (auto only), turn on lights, heater (NOT front defrost as that kicks idle up artificially), rear defrost, THEN set the idle screw. Your headlights should remain just as bright at idle while in gear with foot on brake as they do when it's around 1500 rpm (or higher). If the engine idle is allowed to drop too far, it might not charge until you rev 50-100 rpms more. So just keep this in mind as not all cars are the same.

 

 

 

* DISCLAIMER*

A word of caution though, if you have a healthy amplifier (say at least 60-80 amp draw) do NOT run the amp's power wire off the battery post with this alt and factory charge wires. Reason being is a power consuming amp can easily cook 4 gauge power wire and/or fuse holders and those factory charge wires are WAY smaller than 4 gauge, but if the amp runs directly to the alt's threaded post (amp power wire MUST be fused close to the amp's rating), it has a clear path to power the amp without battling with the car's electronics through 2 tiny power cables that'll get cooked quickly if a big amp is trying to pull too much current through them, which could lead to a fire or a melted mess. Remember, the battery is just for starting the car, the alt actually powers everything. If you run a bunch of accessories off the battery directly, consider upgrading the charge wires to a heavier gauge and add 2 redundant ground straps, 1 from battery (-) to chassis and the other directly to the block (should do this regardless to be safe and keep wires from overheating). This will ensure a healthy operating electrical system. Also, if you do run a big amp and this alt, run the system at high volume with a heavy bass track at idle. Inspect all the wires for overheating, especially where they make connections AND where the power wire enters/exits the fuse holder. Be VERY careful as they can get very hot. Some heat is normal and transmitted from under-hood.

[Bushwick]

*UPDATE*

 

Just wanted to update on this. Finally got my old amplifier in the other day when it was in the 60's (15 degrees right now and dropping ) and have put the setup through some testing since it passed my preliminary probation reliability period. I had yet to change the old belt that was on the car when purchased (was dry and cracking) and after several hundred miles with the 130 alt and it's factory pulley (remember, it has an extra rib) and the belt showed ZERO signs of damage i.e. no improper loading on the belt, no outside wear, no missing ribbing, no slipping, etc.This particular amplifier can pull somewhere around 75 amp on it's own (it's a piglet) under full load (it's wired directly to the top charge post of the alt and fused, NOT running off battery post!). Running everything ON at night in cold weather and letting the amp overpower an Alpine R 10" in a big, professionally ported box (I love these subs more than W6 JL 12's ) while sitting at a stop light and getting ZERO dimming.

 

I put a brand new belt on since it doesn't appear to wanna destroy them and figured it was a matter of time before the old when would let go, and discovered there was a seemingly "sweet spot" with getting it tight. First night, tightened it after install, started car, revved engine, it squealed. Tightened a little more, no squeal. Restarted car, all was quiet. Let it set overnight, restarted and it squealed again. Crossing fingers this wasn't going to be an issue with a missing rib on the belt, I tightened a touch more and all is quiet. Still a little slack there. I did notice before changing the old belt, out of the blue I got a little squeal at idle the day before I bought the new belt, but it wasn't a belt squeal. I backed off the adjustment a touch and it quieted, so apparently it was over-tightened originally and took awhile to manifest, so keep this in mind if you retrofit one of these; too tight = potential bearing squeal. Belt dressing conditioner probably wouldn't hurt and might help the belt overall in longevity, but I've never used that stuff.

 

My walk away impression from this upgrade is great. These 130 amp alternators can be had for a song, junk yards see them as a "Subaru" alt and nothing fancy about them; 2010 to present means the cars in yards are still new with low mileage; this alt with factory pulley spins fast enough at low idle (550-600 rpm in gear with auto) to power everything and then some w/o dimming (which is actually saying a lot as many won't even kick on at those engine speeds), which means it has a nice, aggressive "power curve" (similar to how an engine powerband across the rpms looks; whether by nature or with the pulley speed) making it suitable for high amperage demands at low rpm/idling making it very suitable for newer Legacy, WRX, Outback, Forester, etc. with aftermarket stereos. Wiring for factory charge wires (there are 2 in tandem connecting at top post) are still soft and pliable, and show no signs of scorching or overheating- just remember NOT to run aftermarket amps, lights, etc. off the battery post as it can easily over power these small wires.

 

Edited December 24, 2013 by Bushwick

[eulogious]

<start rant> One thing I must say something about is wiring anything directly to the alt wiring post. The reason being is that the alt is producing AC to start and then running that AC through a bank of diodes creating DC voltage to power the car. During the conversion from AC to DC, AC will ripple/leak pass the diodes and into the circuit. This is a normal thing and is not bad because the battery (basically a big capacitor) will absorb the AC ripple before it will affect the cars electronics. This is why the manufacture runs everything off of the battery post not off of the alt post. AC ripple WILL destroy most amps/electronics in quick order.

 

I would highly recommend not running anything off of the alt post, and only running stuff off of the battery, no matter the reason. If you upgrade the alt, upgrade the wiring, period. Don't be lazy and try to work around this by wiring off of the alt post, unless you want to kill your electronics.

 

Not too mention that if the amp(s) draws more than 130 amps (which can happen regularly, at least with me) it's going to need some more juice, which comes from the battery (a giant power reserve). So if you draw more than 130 amps your wiring needs to be upgraded to handle that draw coming from the battery. Needless to say it's just not a good idea to try and upgrade the alt without upgrading the wiring and it's not a good idea to run anything off the alt post, you are just asking for trouble...</end rant>

[Fairtax4me]

I've never seen one of these cars have a lead straight from the battery to the alternator. The charge lead always runs to the fuse panel.

 

AC ripple will be filtered out by connecting a battery or capacitor anywhere in the circuit. It's more effective if the battery is mounted close to the amplifier, but it will still act as a condenser no matter where it is.

[Bushwick]

@Eulogious  The battery starts the car- that's it. It doesn't add anything else. Battery voltage is 12v, alt running is typically 14v. Only time battery comes into play is if the engine is off and radio is on. That's it.

 

The charge wire(s) that run from the alt to battery (however long it takes to get there) can be bypassed with amp's power wire so long as it's fused. You get less dimming, and significantly LESS current draw being pulled through ALL the factory electronics and small gauge wiring. Running off a battery post taxes the entire system. Running off the post on the top exterior of the alt avoids all this. I've gotten to this conclusion from alt/generator rewinders that suggest this, as well as actual amp place that do the same (no, not Best Buy or any other retail chain, an actual local, but big amp/stereo dealer that installs in house and has all mid to high end stuff).

 

To further support this claim, I've run high-end and mid-end amps for years w/o any damage to the amps. I'm talking $800 to $1200 EACH for the higher end amps running a true 600 watt rms or better to a 1200 watt mono Crossfire class D. Running everything from 12" Crossfire BMF to 4 JL W6 12", to Alpine type R's. The 600 watt amps (both running mono, 60 amp draw each with own power line and separate fuses) were unregulated, so they'd scale to whatever the alt put out. I ran that set up for about 4 years in my Lincoln Mark VIII with a custom rewound 290 amp alt. I ran off the battery post when in the beginning, and not only COOKED the fuse holders, but was going through Optima red tops after roughly 10 months. After taking the advice of running from the outside alt post, I never had any issues there after. I ran that system to it's limit the entire time is was set up, and other than the 12" Crossfire BMF lasting about 3 years at that power level, the electronics never missed a beat. Save the rants.

 

EDIT: Semis have 3-6 batteries, but 1 130 amp alt on average. Ever see the guys with $4k worth of lights? The alt powers those. The batteries are for starting ONLY. The battery does NOT act as a reserve. That's a myth. I've been there, done that. Running a 1000+ CA battery had ZERO effect over running a 550 CA battery. ZERO. Hence my 1st upgrade was the biggest battery I could stuff in which I found out the hard way had no effect. The system still dimmed like crazy even with very conservative setting with gain and frequency cuts. Usually I had to control the amp's gain through the head unit on heavy bass note tracks. Once the alt was upgraded, that was no longer an issue. Capacitors are useless junk too. A cheap gimmick for those too cheap to upgrade the alt. I would not have risked damaging A couple grands worth of amps if it ruined them. 

Edited December 26, 2013 by Bushwick

[eulogious]

I run Phoenix Gold amps in my car (Both over $1000 new and run over 600 watts RMS a peice and yes I have the test sheets to prove this), so I know a thing or two about nice car audio.  I pull about 80amps RMS at full tilt with both my amps.  So how would you explain my car still running if I overload my 75amp alt when my stereo is full bore?  How does that work?  Where is the extra 5 amps coming from to power the stereo, let alone the other at least 10amps to power the rest of the car?  Why do you think at bass drags the cars that win have HUGE banks of batteries?  Why wouldn't they just have a HUGE alt instead and not waste the money on all of the batteries?  The alt is not magic, it has limits, and that is why the battery is there, to pick up the slack.  So yes a battery does act as a reserve, just do some research on it.

 

Oh, and yes I have tested my draw with a fluke ammeter and have factory test sheets to prove what they put out as well.

 

Why do the lights dim with a large stereo or when you are at idle you ask?  Because the alt that is producing the power is producing 14.4v, and the battery is sitting at 12.8-13.2v.  So your lights dim when the alt can't produce the power and the battery steps in to provide the power that the system needs, but at a lower voltage, causing the lights to dim.  Again, yes, the battery does in fact act as a reserve. 

 

It also acts as a bypass capacitor, filtering out AC ripple.  Here's a good article about bypass caps and where you put them and why you need them:

 

http://www.seattlerobotics.org/encoder/jun97/basics.html

 

Oh, and those "junk" caps you mention, ya they don't filter out any AC ripple either.  Nope, not at all.  They do no good what so ever   Definitely don't want one on the end of a large power run, that would be HORRIBLE to block out all that unwanted noise.  Nobody wants good clean sound.

 

You need to filter out the AC ripple as close to the power source as possible AND after a long power wire run.  This is normal industry practice when designing electronics, so why would car stereos be any different?

 

Running anything off of the alt is bad practice and not industry standard, just look it up.  Sure it might work for you and not cause any damage but it's bad practice and is not normally done.  If I paid someone to install my car stereo and they ran anything extra off of my alt (besides the "big 3"), I would be PISSED, and so should anyone else.  That is what the battery is designed for.

 

At this point I am just going to back out of the convo.  Obviously you have no interest in trying to learn where you might be wrong, and I don't really appreciate being told to "Save the rants" because you are just right, even though you have not present any evidence to back up what you say other than anecdotal evidence. 

 

No I will not "save the rant" for you or anybody else for that matter.  This forum is supposed to be a place to share ideas and knowledge and debate the ideas within it for the betterment of the community at large.  You mentioned some info that just MIGHT be wrong in here and I am simply correcting that so that when someone else reads this in 3 years, they can make the choice on what to do because they now have a fuller picture of what is actually going on.  At least I have presented an alternate view to yours and clearly have presented some info you have no idea about.  Which is the whole point of a forum.  Not so someone can make a post to show how smart they are or how cool they are and then tell them to "save the rants" because they "know more". 

 

If you didn't pick up on it the whole <start rant> </end rant> thing was to show I was merely trying to show that there might be some flaws in the info you were presenting and that I have some beef with it and we should discuss it.  There is no need for an attitude or to tell me to shut up.  It's not needed and unproductive.

 

Once/if you drop the attitude and would actually like to debate this like an adult and you are interested in learning where you MIGHT POSSIBLY be wrong, I might consider picking up this topic again.  Yes I sound like a pompous jerk saying that but I really don't care. I really, really dis like people who think they are infallible and always right and I won't waste my time correcting them as I have better things to do. 

 

One thing I have learned in my short time on this planet is that there is always someone smarter than you out there, and you really shouldn't piss them off as you might actually learn something from them.

 

Good luck and thanks again for the tip on putting in the big alt from a becca.  That is good info.

 

Eulogious oat!

Edited December 27, 2013 by eulogious

[eulogious]

And just to drive my point home with some facts so I don't seem like a hypocrite for not posting anything to back up what I am saying:

 

http://www.bcae1.com/charging.htm

 

Says exactly what I have said in my previous post...  Yes the battery acts as a reserve.  I could go on and post more links, but that would just be beating a dead horse at this point

 

Oh, and that link brings up yet another reason to not connect anything to the alt, voltage spikes.  Since the voltage regulator can't react quick enough to supply the power the amps need, you get transient voltage spikes directly to your sensitive equipment.  Transient voltage spikes also kill electronics in short order, FYI.  And not to mention the added load that the VR gets from running stuff directly off of the alt.  Everyone wants to kill their alt and amps as fast as they can, right?

 

Running stuff directly off of the alt is just bad.

 

Now I am seriously done.

Edited December 27, 2013 by eulogious

[Bushwick]

You are running a 75 amp alt with 80 amp draw?? and chastising over running off the alt's post instead of straining the entire electrical system? LOL yeah, sure.  600 watt RMS doesn't pull 40 amp buddy, you're more around 300-400 watt per amp mono bridged and that's being optimistic and rating it 100% cold pushing high frequencies. You can run more amp than the alt can handle, but you aren't seeing the full limit of the amp, and you are starving everything else in the car like the headlights, unless you have the gain down so low it barely registers. The alt's life will be greatly shortened. If you had real amps, I'd say do it right and upgrade the alt, but you apparently know better. Battery has NO effect on a an engine running system. Banks of batteries? You sure the car is even running? Or maybe they have a need for the batteries like hydraulics. I've always seen multi alternators in cars that run and have systems. Phoneix is junk. Ranks up there with Pyramid. Go talk to to an actual alt/generator shop.

Edited December 28, 2013 by Bushwick

[Bushwick]

Since you like beating a dead horse, here's a link I pulled about adding more batteries. Funny thing, it supports my claim:

http://cartech.about.com/od/Car-Audio/f/Do-I-Need-An-Extra-Battery-For-My-High-End-Car-Audio-System.htm

 

And here's a simple basics about charging systems with amps. Funny, it looks like the alt is powering the amp directly in the flash diagram, right? Guess you missed that like I missed we grabbed the same link LOL.

http://www.bcae1.com/charging.htm

 

Once again, the alt powers the system, battery is for starting or engine OFF scenarios and produces a load otherwise (in reference to a bigger system and NOT the car running). Your alt is overworked and expecting the battery to pick up the slack is silly. For $50 you can put 110-130 amp in there and have a healthy system that isn't under-powered or overworked. Capacitors are useless on real systems and actually hurt smaller systems as the alt HAS to power it just like any other accessory. This has been common knowledge for awhile now. Anyone looking to run a bigger system in your car, just upgrade the alt. That's all you need.

Edited December 28, 2013 by Bushwick

[Bushwick]

Also, a reason for running MANY batteries is guys get a an alt rewound, they leave the factory pulley on, then it won't charge at idle (reason why they sit there and press the gas pedal = stupid) I had a custom pulley cut for the other car to avoid this that increased shaft speed. 

[eulogious]

Like I said, I don't waste my time with guys like you. You just don't get it. This is not a debate at all with the way you are talking and with that attitude, it's you trying to be better than me, and that is not the point. I don't have time to waste on childish debates like this. Proof is in the pudding as you linked to my same link. People now have good info to make a sound choice. That's all I wanted.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

I am not going to clutter up this thread anymore.

Edited December 28, 2013 by eulogious

[1-3-2-4]

What size wires does the stock Subaru have for wires from the battery to the alt? I just picked up 20' of wielding wire 4 gauge to re-do my battery cables on my car, but my sound system will be simple.. a single sub and single amp for door speakers.. I don't plan on going anything over 500W.. may not be 400W.

[eulogious]

What size wires does the stock Subaru have for wires from the battery to the alt? I just picked up 20' of wielding wire 4 gauge to re-do my battery cables on my car, but my sound system will be simple.. a single sub and single amp for door speakers.. I don't plan on going anything over 500W.. may not be 400W.

IDK what the beca stock wire is, but 4awg will work just fine. That's what I have in my car. Since the run is under 2 feet, 4awg will work for almost all non "hard core" stereo installs. Anything more is overall kill really.

[Bushwick]

Just giving another update here. Everything has been holding up great and working w/o issues. I did have to replace the 2008 battery once the temps reached -0, but otherwise running the smaller belt with the wider ribbed pulley has shown no ill effects as of yet. I can run heater on, rear defrost on, lights on, and the single 10" Alpine R bumping away at 400+ watts (or whatever this old amp is doing) and no squealing, with nice, consistently bright lights even at idle. The wires are all OK and NOT overheating (not that they should anyways). Like the other cars I've run before this, there has been no issues running off the post as well as ZERO dimming. Though, I forgot to mention you want your "12v remote power on" to come from the head unit itself (even if you run a separate switch in line with the head unit) to avoid any amp on "bump" or discharge noise. You won't get any noise from the 12v source wire (unless you have a bad ground) being from the post, but you definitely want the head unit to switch on through an "amp on" or suppose a powered antennae line if the head unit is older.