84 DL wagon, buck/surge under heavy throttle or going up hills

[cal_look_zero]

Just picked up this 84 DL 4WD. It surges/bucks really hard going up hills or under heavy throttle. I'm guessing that it's probably one or both fuel filters clogged up, but the electrical looks pretty suspect as well; coil looks original and wires are a bit crusty. It starts right up and purrs like a kitten though...

I've heard the stock carb is terrible to try and rebuild (Looking at the mess or vac lines, I see why), so I'm hoping to avoid that. Or I'll weber it. Either way.

[cal_look_zero]

Cap, rotor, and wires checked out. Replaced the plugs and coil. Starts up and idles great, but still bucking under load. Fuel filters were both clear and clean. Timing issue perhaps?

[ruparts]

hi,

 if it has been sitting a while the old gas is a likely cause, lots of fresh gas and a couple hundred miles driving time is good medicine , then assess it .

[cal_look_zero]

Any thoughts? I'm wondering if not that the fuel filters are clogged, maybe the pump is bad?

[ferox]

So, have you done anything to the carb?  As you mentioned, fuel filters would be the first thought, personally I would just replace them anyway even if they look clean.  My filters always clog once they switch to the winter ethanol fuel mix and the elements look totally clean.

 

I would suspect the carb before the fuel pump, but you can check the pump for function easy enough.  I would say the carb needs at least a rudimentary cleaning and float set to at least kind of rule that out.  I always recommend a carb rebuild if you have just purchased a car that doesn't have recent carb maintenance or replacement records.  

 

Based on the abilities you have demonstrated in past threads, I don't think you would have any trouble rebuilding an '84 Hitachi carb.  It's really not that difficult if you can follow step by step directions.  Haynes brand manuals have the FSM carb rebuild section.  Most of those vacuum lines and various defunct emissions control solenoids on the engine need to be removed, not to mention ASV stuff, etc,...  You would want to do that anyway, even if you are planning to eventually Weber it.  Autozone sells a good Beck Arnley rebuild kit for the Hitachi for ~$30.

 

I always just replace all the vacuum hoses too.  If you do, make sure you locate the orifice restrictor(s) in the choke pull-off vac hose.

 

If you're interested I could probably post some pics of my ea81.  It's got the Hitachi, with all the unnecessary vac lines removed.

 

Have you verified the timing and vac advance function?

[cal_look_zero]

I already have the carb kit, I was just a bit put off by the mess of hoses and such. A picture or thread on getting rid of that stuff would be great.

I ordered both filters, no sense in not changing them at $3 a piece.

I haven't messed with the timing or anything as of yet. Wanted to verify it was all mechanically correct before I try adjusting things.

[ferox]

So here are some pics of what you should be left with after you are done removing the emissions gadgetry.  My  car flew through emissions testing a few months ago by the way.  This is an '83 Hitachi but it's basically the same thing as your '84 but it only has one dashpot for the choke pull-off.  

 

I also do not have an EGR valve.  I'm not anti-EGR, but I blocked it off when it needed replaced, but I lived way out in the country and didn't feel like spending the $50+ time waiting on a new one.  If you are going to run an EGR then you will have to T into a ported vac line.  Also, I kept the charcoal canister, but replaced it with new.  The purge valves wear out on the canister and create a vacuum leak.

 

This is on an '81 so I removed all vacuum solenoids, thermo vacuum valves, hard lines routed under the manifold, silencers, filters.  Anything emissions related was gone.  The hardlines under the manifold are just transfer lines and are not necessary to remove, but it cleans things up a bit if you do.  I think you might have to remove the manifold to do it right though.  An '84 has even more stuff to remove, most notably the ASV set-up.

 

I always cut the wire to the idle cut-off solenoid before removal and attach connectors to aid removal of the solenoid.  The wire at the base of the solenoid breaks easily if you don't cut the wire.

 

 

 

 

[wallaby]

in addition to everything mentioned....

do check the fuel pump, i have had several that appear to work but can't

keep up with the engine under load/hard accell.

[naru]

Any thoughts? I'm wondering if not that the fuel filters are clogged, maybe the pump is bad?

 

No need to waste time and money guessing.

Shut it off quickly after a "buck" event and check the fuel level in the sight glass.

[cal_look_zero]

Wow, thank you Ferox. I'll be gleefully ripping and tearing things off this weekend when I have a little more free time.

[ferox]

Wow, thank you Ferox. I'll be gleefully ripping and tearing things off this weekend when I have a little more free time.

 

Anytime, I know you are going to do a great job and keep another one on the road...and off the road for that matter.

[cal_look_zero]

Anytime, I know you are going to do a great job and keep another one on the road...and off the road for that matter.

That's the plan. I was going to sell it, but no reason to not have a spare rig when the Imp goes in for open heart again this month.

[rrgrr]

I am looking for how to plumb the DCZ328 on my 85 ea82 similarly. If anyone has pics or diagrams for this setup it would help greatly.