P1440 Fuel tank Pressure System Range / performance no. 1

[Ravenwoods]

We have a 1998 Subaru Forester S with about 215,000 miles on it.

 

Our check engine light starting coming on intermittently in the past two weeks. Last night I went down to the O'Reilly Auto parts store where they loan you the code reader for free. So it said the problem is:

 

P1440 Fuel Tank Pressure System Range / performance no. 1

 

The car runs great. But at idle one gets an intermittent rough spot in the idle. This has been going on for many months -- possibly a year. But I think maybe it has gotten more noticeable. Would this rough intermittent idle be related to the P1440 code or it is possibly just a coincidence. 

 

Also, I googled this error code and found this information:

 

Possible causes

- Faulty EVAP Purge Control Valve
- EVAP Purge Control Valve harness is open or shorted
- EVAP Purge Control Valve circuit poor electrical connection

So is that the plastic box thing at the back right of the car near the bumper? Sounds like this might be an easy fix?

Any suggestions on how to fix this?

Read more: http://helpforcars.net/obd_codes/p1440_subaru.html#ixzz2nYuNgbPf

[MilesFox]

There is a solenoid onthe mount holding up that black box (charcoal canister) Check the electrical plug there, and the other end of it under the seat where it passes through the body. 

 

Check the fuel fill pipe for rust-through. Remove the plastic shileld to see, and debris accumulate there harboring rust.

[Rooster2]

I have the same problem on my 99 OBW. I got advise to replace the gas cap, but that didn't help. Now it is too darn cold and snowy here in Indiana to look into fixing at this time. Car seems to be down on gas mileage, maybe this has something to do with it, or just the cold brings down the millage. Prolly next thing I do, is to remove the plastic shield around the fuel fill pipe. I don't know how to go about that, if anyone can advise both Ravenwoods and me, it would be appreciated............Rooster2

[MilesFox]

Remove the 10mm bolt that secures the shield. Remove the wheel for best access. Be careful as the 10mm bolts are most likely to break off. Ditch the cover, clean the fill tube with a wire brush, and shoot it with spray paint. Secure the guard with a hose clamp should you wish to re-install it.

[Ravenwoods]

Rooster2, I think I have you beat on the cold and snow. Here in Fairbanks, Alaska temperature is currently about minus 7 and expected to drop tonight to about -25 and Monday night to -31. But fortunately I have a heated garage. But at the moment I'm a bit worn out from installing new laminate flooring to do much checking out on the old Subaru.

 

Here in Fairbanks, Alaska, we don't get corrosion on our vehicles as our snow is a dry powder snow and they do not put salt on the roads. So I think a corroded fill pipe is unlikely.

[Rooster2]

Rooster2, I think I have you beat on the cold and snow. Here in Fairbanks, Alaska temperature is currently about minus 7 and expected to drop tonight to about -25 and Monday night to -31. But fortunately I have a heated garage. But at the moment I'm a bit worn out from installing new laminate flooring to do much checking out on the old Subaru.

 

Here in Fairbanks, Alaska, we don't get corrosion on our vehicles as our snow is a dry powder snow and they do not put salt on the roads. So I think a corroded fill pipe is unlikely.

Yep, not that cold here in Indiana. Years back I lived in Minneapolis, where it got down to the level of cold you are describing. Yea, heated garage is the only way to go. I would hate to have your heating bills. I bet your Subie has one of those block heaters, or oil dip stick heater electric power cord units hanging out the front of the car. Try a new gas cap to see if that will fix your problem. It is a cheap fix if it works.

[Ravenwoods]

Yep, not that cold here in Indiana. Years back I lived in Minneapolis, where it got down to the level of cold you are describing. Yea, heated garage is the only way to go. I would hate to have your heating bills. I bet your Subie has one of those block heaters, or oil dip stick heater electric power cord units hanging out the front of the car. Try a new gas cap to see if that will fix your problem. It is a cheap fix if it works.

Heating bill is not so bad since I heat with wood that I gather myself. Huge amount of work every summer to get 11 or 12 cords of wood to heat garage, house, and all our domestic hot water. We have one of those wood burning boilers that is connected to our oil burning boiler. But it helps keep this 53 year old alive. But since I heat with wood I turn the thermostats up to 74 or 75 and we have floor heat so the floors are nice and toasty and our cat worships the warmest floor spots. 

 

Yes, we have a block heater on the Subaru and an oil pan heater. Some people even have a battery warmer. But if your battery is strong, it really isn't necessary if your block heater and oil pan heater have done their job. The engine will crank over nicely at 30 below. My diesel truck has a spot on each side of the block for a block heater and I've been tempted to put in a second block heater for really cold days like 30 or 40 below. At night it is in the garage, but after being outside while I'm at work for 8 hours, it runs pretty rough for 15 seconds when I start it up. 

 

I'll check the connection to the canister to see if I can spot any problem and maybe get a new gas cap. Last summer I left the gas cap on top of the car after filling it up and drove off. While going down the freeway I heard something rolling off the car and saw it hit the pavement in my rear view mirror. Later on I returned on my motorcycle to look for it and found it. Also got a bonus: a very nice ball thrower for our dog. Apparently someone left it on a car bumper or something.

[Fairtax4me]

Don't discount the rusted filler tube. The plastic shield traps dirt and moisture which is what leads to the rusting.

 

 

The purge valve can get crudded up with carbon and cause problems. Often it causes the valve to not seal properly, or stick slightly open. This allows vacuum from the engine to draw on the evap canister all the time when the engine is running. But it also causes the evap system pressure to drop lower than normal while the ECU is trying to pressurize the system in order to check for leaks.

 

The purge valve is under the number 3 runner of the intake manifold on the right hand side. It is normally closed, so it should not allow any air to pass through if you try to blow through a hose attached to the valve. If you can blow through the valve it is not sealing and should be replaced.

The valve can be disassembled and cleaned and sometimes work properly again.

If you find carbon in the purge valve you should replace the canister as well, and blow out the line from the canister to the engine with compressed air.

[Ravenwoods]

Don't discount the rusted filler tube. The plastic shield traps dirt and moisture which is what leads to the rusting.

 

 

The purge valve can get crudded up with carbon and cause problems. Often it causes the valve to not seal properly, or stick slightly open. This allows vacuum from the engine to draw on the evap canister all the time when the engine is running. But it also causes the evap system pressure to drop lower than normal while the ECU is trying to pressurize the system in order to check for leaks.

 

The purge valve is under the number 3 runner of the intake manifold on the right hand side. It is normally closed, so it should not allow any air to pass through if you try to blow through a hose attached to the valve. If you can blow through the valve it is not sealing and should be replaced.

The valve can be disassembled and cleaned and sometimes work properly again.

If you find carbon in the purge valve you should replace the canister as well, and blow out the line from the canister to the engine with compressed air.

Thanks for the help. I'll check this all out. What is the "number 3 runner of the intake manifold" that you mention?

[Ravenwoods]

Don't discount the rusted filler tube. The plastic shield traps dirt and moisture which is what leads to the rusting.

 

 

The purge valve can get crudded up with carbon and cause problems. Often it causes the valve to not seal properly, or stick slightly open. This allows vacuum from the engine to draw on the evap canister all the time when the engine is running. But it also causes the evap system pressure to drop lower than normal while the ECU is trying to pressurize the system in order to check for leaks.

 

The purge valve is under the number 3 runner of the intake manifold on the right hand side. It is normally closed, so it should not allow any air to pass through if you try to blow through a hose attached to the valve. If you can blow through the valve it is not sealing and should be replaced.

The valve can be disassembled and cleaned and sometimes work properly again.

If you find carbon in the purge valve you should replace the canister as well, and blow out the line from the canister to the engine with compressed air.

I took the plastic shield off of the filler tube and there was only a bit of dirt. Some rust but not too much, mostly up around the top and on the smaller pipe that connects to the rubber hoses to the canister. Took a small wire brush and cleaned it up a bit. When I took the gas cap off, there was the standard vacuum sound you get when you take off the cap.

 

I opened the hood of the car and looked for anything that might look like a purge valve but did not spot it.

[Ravenwoods]

I went to the Napa Car parts website and they call it a Canister Purge Solenoid. 

 

Should I get OEM subaru parts in case I need a new purge valve solenoid? Or will the Napa Echlin part be fine? How about the Canister? They want $87 for the canister and $107 for the purge solenoid.

[Ravenwoods]

Don't discount the rusted filler tube. The plastic shield traps dirt and moisture which is what leads to the rusting.

 

 

The purge valve can get crudded up with carbon and cause problems. Often it causes the valve to not seal properly, or stick slightly open. This allows vacuum from the engine to draw on the evap canister all the time when the engine is running. But it also causes the evap system pressure to drop lower than normal while the ECU is trying to pressurize the system in order to check for leaks.

 

The purge valve is under the number 3 runner of the intake manifold on the right hand side. It is normally closed, so it should not allow any air to pass through if you try to blow through a hose attached to the valve. If you can blow through the valve it is not sealing and should be replaced.

The valve can be disassembled and cleaned and sometimes work properly again.

If you find carbon in the purge valve you should replace the canister as well, and blow out the line from the canister to the engine with compressed air.

Thanks for the help. I found some pictures online of where the purge valve is and Napa has a nice picture of the part:

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Canister-Purge-Solenoid/_/R-CRB2283725_0347584587#Full0

 

Found it on my car. Looks like one bolt is holding it on. Since I cleared the code from my car on Saturday night the check engine light has not come back on. I interpret that to mean it is not a leak from rust or a cracked rubber tube. This seems to point to the Purge Valve or Evaporative canister itself. Most likely the purge valve acting up from time to time. The check Engine light only came on about two weeks ago and then went out by itself, before coming on again. 

 

Will a faulty Purge Valve cause the intermittent rough engine idling I have noticed? It is not that noticeable since my wife had never noticed it. Anyway, this morning while dropping my daughter off at the school bus stop, I did not notice any of the rough idle episodes.

[Ravenwoods]

Here is an update on our 1998 Forester—four years later. Mileage is now 271,414, compared to the 215,000 back then.

 

I never did make any repairs and the Check Engine Light went off. It occasionally comes on a couple times a year for a couple days. So it came on again yesterday and I dropped by AutoZone to read the trouble code: the same old P1440.

 

Car seems to still be running great and has been very reliable. Cosmetically it has suffered. One time my wife forgot to set the parking brake and it rolled down a slight hill and got some body damage. Another time someone else scrapped our right rear fender. The insurance company declared it totaled but we kept it. Another time my wife backed into my motorcycle and the rear door got a nice dent. No damage to my motorcycle thankfully!

 

When we bought the car we were told it had been towed behind an RV for about 50,000 miles, so the engine actually has 50,000 less miles on it than what the odometer shows.

 

Last time I checked it was still getting about 25 mpg on the highway.

[mikec03]

I think it's very unusual that with the 2.5 engine that you have exceeded 270K miles.  Congratulations.  And in Fairbanks too.  Don't they use salt up there?

 

i'm not sure the forester is exactly the same, but on the 97 legacy wagon, the P0440, I think usually means that the purge valve has failed and it is located above the canister behind the passenger rear wheel.  But if the light it keeps going off, why bother fixing it.  In a lot of the states, however, the check engine light prevents getting new registration so it's a problem that needs fixing immediately. 

 

Get that car over 300K and you will lot's of admiration on this site.

[Ravenwoods]

I think it's very unusual that with the 2.5 engine that you have exceeded 270K miles.  Congratulations.  And in Fairbanks too.  Don't they use salt up there?

 

i'm not sure the forester is exactly the same, but on the 97 legacy wagon, the P0440, I think usually means that the purge valve has failed and it is located above the canister behind the passenger rear wheel.  But if the light it keeps going off, why bother fixing it.  In a lot of the states, however, the check engine light prevents getting new registration so it's a problem that needs fixing immediately. 

 

Get that car over 300K and you will lot's of admiration on this site.

Thanks for the reply, Since it was towed behind an RV for 50,000 miles, I guess the engine may make it to 320,000. 

 

They don't use much salt up here so vehicles have little corrosion. They say at our low winter temperatures the salt is not effective. They spread lots of sand and small gravel at intersections.

 

We also don't have any inspections so an intermittent Check Engine Light is not a problem.

 

But their are those green diagnostic plugs under the dash on the drivers side. Maybe plugging those will help determine if it is the solenoid that is occasionally causing the fault?

[Ravenwoods]

I watched a YouTube video about the Subaru evap canister and the guy said the dealer told him the maximum weight for a canister is 2.5 pounds. Apparently they accumulate weight over time and need replacement when they exceed a certain weight. So I took mine off this morning and weighed it. It is 3 pounds 3 ounces. Does anyone know if this is correct?

[Fairtax4me]

Depends on the size of the canister. 3lbs sounds fine to me. Typically a flooded canister will weigh 4.5lbs or more.