Prep tips for Running in Cold Weather

[tdodge41]

Hey there vintage subaru brain trust!

 

This is going to be my first winter running my 85 Brat in the cold weather of Michigan. 

 

Just wondering if there are any tips/tricks or whatever out there for running a good vintage subaru through the snow and coldness. 

 

Everything seems to be running fine once the car warms up. Getting it started in the morning is a pain in the butt though. Is there any reason cold weather would keep my car from starting? Takes about ten minutes of pedal pumping and key turning to get it to turn over finally. I recently checked my starter connections and they didn't seem dirty or anything like that. Next step is going to be to clean the battery contacts and make sure there is no moisture messing with that. 

 

Also, snow tires? How important do people feel they are? I have been flying through about 6 inches of snow in my 4 high right now and there isn't anything stopping me. 

 

And do people typically put weight in the back of a Brat when running in the winter time? I have heard of trucks doing this before, but it seems to me the brat runs fine without. 

 

Also... the salt battle.   Ugh. I don't feel like there is ever going to be any winning, just pro-longing the disaster. Thanks in advance. 

[CarpeNoctem]

If there is a mechanical advance in the distributor you may want to check how freely it moves when cold. If it is siezing a bit when cold your timing may not be ramping like it is supposed to. Its a commonly overlooked item that can cause cranking issues until centriugal force finally overcomes rough operation

[tdodge41]

What would be a solution to the distributor not running well in the cold?

[Mechanical_misfit]

I did undercoat the hell out of some of the trouble spots while you were doing brakes. That might help the rust a bit. I think you'll live without the snow tires.

[mr sarcastic]

Maybe you need to mess with your choke? Many carb's need the choke to be adjusted in the winter to richen it up a little more. As for winter tires, you don't need to change them unless you like to stop and turn better in the snow and ice. Your 4wd will get you to move through most anything, but it won't help you stop or turn.

[SubieBrat]

Quick question are you running a hitachi or weber? Hitachi doesn't start well in cold. when i had it, it would take a few minutes because my choke quit working. Piece of crap carb... But the weber is good. If you have the hitachi i would recommend putting a manual choke on it. Its about 10 bucks, and take about a half hour or so to install. Helps a lot in the cold

[tdodge41]

Yea I am running a hitachi but contemplating moving to a webber soon, although the most intensive fix I have done is a tie rod at this point, I am a bit unexperienced. What does it take to put a maual choke on it?

[CarpeNoctem]

What would be a solution to the distributor not running well in the cold?

 yeah because if the mechanical advance doesn't open, your timing will be off. timing being off on top of the cold etc could do it. Not sure it is your particular issue but it's possible. if it's not something you've maintained before it's worth doing anyhow. better mpg and power (power due to recovering loss). 

[tundrabrat]

I don't know what type of weather you get down there but here is my advise for old subies in Alaska that spend their winters outside.

 

Good undercoating is a good idea.  If you don't have rust make sure you get up in the rear wheel well , behind the front wheels, under the front floors pans and outriggers REALLY well.

 

I have a block heater in mine... it replaces one of the hex head plugs on the front of the engine block (left side if you're facing the car), very easy to access.  Warm block=warm oil, which will cut down on wear and tear of internals... Plug in below 20.

 

I have tires with studs... but that's for stopping, not going.

 

I wouldn't mess with the Hitachi if you aren't experiencing issues... if you're having choke issues then a Weber is a good step up.

 

Ingition... old plug wires, old cap and rotor can also leave you high and dry in cold/damp weather... check condition and replace if you suspect any issue.

 

Finally, double check your coolant... if it is old or you don't know if it was mixed in proper ratios I would flush and replace.

 

That's all I got... enjoy the new ride.

[MilesFox]

if you really want to prevent rust, you will want to remove fenders and mudflaps to treat those pesky areas.

[spazomatic]

I highly recommend swapping to a weber. Its just a better carb. We just had a nice cold spell (-20 to 9 for a week) and my 84 still fired right up. Hit the gas once, turn the key, its running.

Its a relatively easy swap, but you may want to do some research, then find somebody local to lend a hand, since you havent had a lot of wrenching experience.

But, just adding a manual choke to the hitachi should help, if your hitachi is otherwise fine.

 

The block heater is an excellent idea too. Though i dont use one because its not consistently all that cold here in colorado.

 

I have studded Hankook Ipikes on my GL and cant recommend them enough. Excellent tire. I have a lot of mountain road hill climbing to do, and Im tellin ya, these tires make the car act like a mountain goat.

 

I always have weight in the back, but its in the form of tools, straps, come-a-long, tire chains, shovel, etc. maybe you could get a locking box and mount it in the bed to store stuff? Add weight and be useful too.

 

I do not envy your salt situation! Undercoat undercoat undercoat!

 

Good luck, have fun!

[SubieBrat]

Yea I am running a hitachi but contemplating moving to a webber soon, although the most intensive fix I have done is a tie rod at this point, I am a bit unexperienced. What does it take to put a maual choke on it?

I believe once you take the filter off its a matter of a few bolts. i think 3. the kit comes with everything you need. just need to find a mounting place. i did it to mine a little over a year ago, so i dont remember. Then it died so i put the weber on it. But its very easy. i would suggest mounting the plunger in the little hole on the left of your steering column. it helped quite abit compared to the electronic.

[TomRhere]

Been 2 years or so since I drove that BRAT in Winter weather, details are a bit sketchy...

 

I do recall a few really cold mornings where I had to pump the gas a couple times, then play with the pedal to keep her running for the 1st few minutes.

The Weber set up is still setting here when ever you want it.

 

We can't run or even buy studded tires here in Michigan. So some good biting tires is the best we can do.

 

The '84 BRAT had a block heater in it, I never used it though. I do know people that have one in their vehicles and they simply love the fact that it's there.

 

When driving any of the BRATs on snow covered roads, I used 4WD. I would drop it in FWD for turning corners then back into 4WD. Not so much for curves in the road, but when turning on to another road. Just something I did. Trips into work in the mornings were usually done before the plow trucks were out.

[Rust]

If you run your car in the winter it will rust period.  salt and sand, plus the new generation de-icer slurry they throw down will eat metal no matter how you try to prevent it.  Just carry a lot coins in your glove box and power spray your undercarriage as much as possible.   

[ivans imports]

Heat riser must be in working order ea81s bad for crab iceing

[tdodge41]

if you really want to prevent rust, you will want to remove fenders and mudflaps to treat those pesky areas.

One mud flap already gone. Should just take the second off till I can make a bracket that will hold them again. And the fenders may come off. Good idea. 

 

 

Been 2 years or so since I drove that BRAT in Winter weather, details are a bit sketchy...

 

I do recall a few really cold mornings where I had to pump the gas a couple times, then play with the pedal to keep her running for the 1st few minutes.

The Weber set up is still setting here when ever you want it.

 

We can't run or even buy studded tires here in Michigan. So some good biting tires is the best we can do.

 

The '84 BRAT had a block heater in it, I never used it though. I do know people that have one in their vehicles and they simply love the fact that it's there.

 

When driving any of the BRATs on snow covered roads, I used 4WD. I would drop it in FWD for turning corners then back into 4WD. Not so much for curves in the road, but when turning on to another road. Just something I did. Trips into work in the mornings were usually done before the plow trucks were out.

Tom you will probably be getting an email from me soon, depending on how the season goes. Would be nice to have a webber for my trip to wisconsin to get a topper. Although finding a garage in the winter to have half a day to do the webber swap is another thing. 

 

Things have been driving pretty good this winter actually. The tires I have now are pretty good. And yea, we have been hitting that car wash on the regular. 

[MilesFox]

If you come to wisconsin hit me up. I have a set of side skirts and airdam for your buddy in muskegon. I am directly across the lake. But don't swim here

[tdodge41]

If you come to wisconsin hit me up. I have a set of side skirts and airdam for your buddy in muskegon. I am directly across the lake. But don't swim here

The topper is in Sheboygan. And I think my buddy James will be with me on the trip. And we are driving my brat (pending it doesnt rust out this winter) so it should be a good time. I think we are going to try and do the trip in 2 days. And its my hope that by that time I have a Webber running in the Brat from TomRhere. 

[greg454]

I have an hitachi carb and mine starts great in cold weather. If your carb is in good shape are you "setting" the choke correctly? First thing you do before you try to start it is press the gas pedal all the way to the floor and then release it. That sets your choke and fast idle. When the car starts it will fast idle around 2000rpm or so until you blip the gas pedal again and then the idle will drop to normal. Most older carburated cars worked like this and the hitachi does also if in proper working condition.

 

Greg

[tdodge41]

I have an hitachi carb and mine starts great in cold weather. If your carb is in good shape are you "setting" the choke correctly? First thing you do before you try to start it is press the gas pedal all the way to the floor and then release it. That sets your choke and fast idle. When the car starts it will fast idle around 2000rpm or so until you blip the gas pedal again and then the idle will drop to normal. Most older carburated cars worked like this and the hitachi does also if in proper working condition.

 

Greg

Thats one of the reasons I feel like my hitachi is not working properly. I push the pedal down and release it, but I get no fast idle. Makes me think the choke on the carb is broken or something is wrong with it. Funny enough, the car wont start in the cold unless I give the gas pedal a few taps to get it moving. But the fast idle has not worked for some time now.

[MilesFox]

The topper is in Sheboygan. And I think my buddy James will be with me on the trip. And we are driving my brat (pending it doesnt rust out this winter) so it should be a good time. I think we are going to try and do the trip in 2 days. And its my hope that by that time I have a Webber running in the Brat from TomRhere. 

It takes me about 5-6 hours to drive to coldwater, MI. muskegon would probably be an hour less. But add 45 minutes from milwaukee to sheboygan. 

 

I suggest taking 94 stright thru chicago, and take the skyway to save 30-45 min of driving. And do not take the west burbs 290 loop as that adds toll and another hour or more of drive time. Sometimes using the local lanes is faster than the express lane, depending on the volume of traffic. Try to pace a semi that is mofing along at a good pace, as the trucks drive at more consistent speed without a lot of slowing down or lane changing. Keep to the right lanes, or the middle lanes, follow the large trucks.

 

as far as your carb goes, pump it up a few times, and on the last pump, push the gas down fully, release, and ton't touch it as this sets the choke. Pumping while cranking just releases the choke. Try this and i bet a dollar it will start on the first 3 attempts, if not the first try. This is assuming the choke is working properly.

[tdodge41]

It takes me about 5-6 hours to drive to coldwater, MI. muskegon would probably be an hour less. But add 45 minutes from milwaukee to sheboygan. 

 

I suggest taking 94 stright thru chicago, and take the skyway to save 30-45 min of driving. And do not take the west burbs 290 loop as that adds toll and another hour or more of drive time. Sometimes using the local lanes is faster than the express lane, depending on the volume of traffic. Try to pace a semi that is mofing along at a good pace, as the trucks drive at more consistent speed without a lot of slowing down or lane changing. Keep to the right lanes, or the middle lanes, follow the large trucks.

 

as far as your carb goes, pump it up a few times, and on the last pump, push the gas down fully, release, and ton't touch it as this sets the choke. Pumping while cranking just releases the choke. Try this and i bet a dollar it will start on the first 3 attempts, if not the first try. This is assuming the choke is working properly.

Sounds like it's going to be a pretty easy drive. I think we are coming the first weekend in January, there on Friday and back home on a Saturday. 

 

And yea, did the choke, pumped it a few times, put it down let it up and tried to start: no dice. No high idle. I guess this means the high idle could be broke as well? Either way, looks like I still have investigation to do. 

[ivans imports]

My ea81 Tbi brat revs at 2500 for the 1rst 35 min of the day cold then very slowly comes down but never gives me any grief starting and don't have to touch gas peadal