yobhgareb Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 Hi. I am going to do the lsd swap tomorrow. I have to change the lsd unit from a 3.7 casing into my 3.9 casing first which is going to take up some of my time. preferably I would like to get the job done in one day , which is why I'm asking you great guys for any tricks to get the rear diff out efficiently? I have had a look around, but cant see anything really 'l' series specific. Any help is greatly appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 Drive out the roll pins for the axles. Unbolt the drive shaft flange. Take out the two nuts that hold the diff cover to the mustache bar, and remove the bolt on the top that goes to the cross member. Then just drop it out... No tricks, it's really easy. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padawan Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 Yeah, but please make an update when its done. Would like to do this swap myself 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 jack up each rear corner drive out the CV pins remove the bottom bolt for the shock absorber onto the suspension arm pull down on the suspension arms to give enough travel for the drive shafts to be reomved reverse up onto car ramps undo & remove the 4 bolts for the tailshaft put an old cushion or mattress underneath the diff now don't lie under the diff undo the rear 2 bolts undo the front bolt let the diff drop Getting the new diff up is the more difficult part Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 Oh it's not nearly that complicated! You don't have to unbolt any suspension. Often times you can remove one axle without unbolting anything. But even so, once the diff is loose you can just lower it down, move it all the way to one side, and the opposite axle will pop out. This is how you have to do EJ ones. I always lie under the diff and just press it in or out. They probably weigh like 60lbs? maybe. Really depends if you feel comfortable hefting the weight and maneuvering it without dropping it on yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 They can be a little tricky sometimes if the axles don't want to come of the diff stubs, but other than that it's easy, and I agree, you don't have to unbolt any suspension. Just unbolt the diff, and then lower it and slide it off each diff stub. I've done this in the dirt on my back, by myself, several times. If you are concerned about the weight, use a floor jack to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 I only suggested doing the suspension part for if the splines are sticky on the CVs. I know you guys in the colder climates have issues with rust. We have issues with dust in there instead Pre 88s seem to be ok with the shaft movement because they've got floating CVs on both ends of the rear shafts, later ones only have them on the inners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yobhgareb Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 (edited) Thanks guys. I got the diff out handily enough and didnt touch suspension. The tough bit was putting new one in again on your own lying on your back under the car! (Well I am telling a lie , my dad, 73 held the inspection lamp) I have updated my post in members car. Thanks for the help Edited December 20, 2013 by yobhgareb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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