okamikai Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 Hi everyone, my Forester decided to let loose a piston pin retainer; found it in oil pan. So, I have to open the engine for inspection cuz it was knocking pretty bad. Didn't see any metal shavings or particles in oil so that's a good sign, but still I want to make sure nothing broke. Anyways, I'm posting pictures of the job, so if anyone needs an specific image of anything let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okamikai Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 And its out, a little bit of cleaning and then to open it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zedhead Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 Lets hope that the wrist pin didn't score/ ruin the liner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 Have 8 + cores if need parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okamikai Posted December 21, 2013 Author Share Posted December 21, 2013 I may be needing the camshafts, one of them is scored pretty badly, or if you can advice me into a head swap or something else I would really appreciate it. The core seems to be ok, as I said no metal particles in oil, but I ran into a stubborn cam retainer screw and the damn thing just won't come off, its already damaged so I guess I'll just grind it out. Once I can open it up I'll be able to tell if the cylinder wall is damaged, hopefully it can be honed out. Please any help will do, my baby girl will be born soon and I need this car running. Thanks in advance... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 I use those reverse gripers from sears or snap on on those bolts when heads are striped like that or grind it off and vise grips. Make a parts list check it twice goto find Subaru parts for the best price ho ho ho ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okamikai Posted December 22, 2013 Author Share Posted December 22, 2013 Good news I went to the local Subaru dealer and spoke to a technician there, he instructed me to machine the mating surface of the cams and cylinder head to remove the groove marks. I hope this works, he also advice in changing the crankshaft bearings to be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okamikai Posted December 22, 2013 Author Share Posted December 22, 2013 (edited) More pics coming soon Edited December 22, 2013 by okamikai Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 As a rule the crank berrings will look exactly the same as cam berrings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okamikai Posted December 30, 2013 Author Share Posted December 30, 2013 Lets hope that the wrist pin didn't score/ ruin the liner! It did, I will post the picture as soon as possible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okamikai Posted December 30, 2013 Author Share Posted December 30, 2013 getting ready for opening Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okamikai Posted December 30, 2013 Author Share Posted December 30, 2013 and it opens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okamikai Posted December 30, 2013 Author Share Posted December 30, 2013 And it scored! ... I was really lucky that the wrist pin did not reach the access hole, but I'm pretty sure it tried. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okamikai Posted December 30, 2013 Author Share Posted December 30, 2013 the crankshaft bearings looked pretty bad although its been over 6 years since I did the engine work, I used ACL Race Series Bearings and I must say they have endured hell under my driving conditions, but besides the bearings everything else looks pretty good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okamikai Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 Have 8 + cores if need parts If you saw the picture the score mark is pretty bad, I was doing some research and it happens that the ej251 block can be used to replace the 25d's block, and still use the 25d camheads, my question to you is, how true is this, and do you have either 251 or 25d cores, and for how much will you sell them? I mainly need the cylinder halves of the 25d, but I'm interested in making the 251 with the 25d camheads. Let me know what you think... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okamikai Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 (edited) Here's a pic of the score markings on the mating surface of the camhead, I was told in the dealer the this damage was caused by mixing oil types, turns out I was using the wrong oil from the beginning, and there was some dirt particles in the engine that worked their magic as well. Edited January 5, 2014 by okamikai Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 You need a new head. No easy way to repair that. Have to re-bore the head to get a new bearing surface, then have to build up the bearings on the cams and machine them back to the correct size. Much easier to just get a new head. That type of damage is from dirt or metal shavings getting into the oil gallery that feeds the cam shaft. Probably got in there when you put the head gaskets on last. Could have also worked its way to there from the oil pump, or through the bypass valve in the oil filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rverdoold Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Here's a pic of the score markings on the mating surface of the camhead, I was told in the dealer the this damage was caused by mixing oil types, turns out I was using the wrong oil from the beginning, and there was some dirt particles in the engine that worked their magic as well. Could you tell what oil you have been using? Just curious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Yes, you can use 251 block with an ej25d head, but your problem seems not to be with the block, but the head. Would be easier to find someone parting out a Suby with the right heads and buy them, as long as they don't have bent valves. Shipping heads from Canada to PR would kill you. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okamikai Posted January 6, 2014 Author Share Posted January 6, 2014 Could you tell what oil you have been using? Just curious. i was using 5w30, but I used 10w30 on the last 8 oil changes, that may have been it, also I used an oil treatment and let it run for too long in the engine, that may have been the problem, but i was told at the dealer to stick to 5w30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okamikai Posted January 6, 2014 Author Share Posted January 6, 2014 Yes, you can use 251 block with an ej25d head, but your problem seems not to be with the block, but the head. Would be easier to find someone parting out a Suby with the right heads and buy them, as long as they don't have bent valves. Shipping heads from Canada to PR would kill you. O. the block cylinder wall has a pretty bad scoring mark due to the wrist pin coming off and it has already been bored to .020 (100mm) I was told that something could be done with it, but I'm not sure about it, I would like to weight my options... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 I just scraped two ej 2.5 ds one was .25 over other stock bore and have 3 more blocks The 2.51 block I rebuild all they are still worth good bucks and in high demand but the 2.5ds are less in demand sell you a block for 100 + shiping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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