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1996 Legacy OB will not start


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All,  the OB died on the way to work the other day.  Car turns over, timing belt is not broke, fuel pump OK, new spark plugs today(NGK), got spark, no injector pulse.  I changed the cam sensor today and still nothing.

Car is  a 2.2 5 speed.   I have a friend who will scan the computer maybe tomorrow, but in the meantime can anyone throw out some more suggestions what to check.

This is driving me nuts, the car has been the ultimate in reliability up to this point, I just want to get it fixed and figure out what is causing the problem.  

 

Thanks,   Mark

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I was told the crank sensor was just for spark, but no have not replaced that yet. I can get that in the morning.   I'm hoping that the timing belt has not jumped, I did not want to get into taking all the covers off the front of the motor until the car gets moved into a garage.  Any other way to check timing without tearing into the front at the moment?  

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pull the two outer end covers off - should be able to do that without removing anything else.

 

22mm socket on the crank bolt, turn engine by hand and line up one or the other cam sprocket - hash mark straight up - check and see where the hash mark on the other cam sprocket sits - if it is anything other than straight up, timing has definitely jumped.

 

I suppose it might be possible to have both cams line up right but still have the main crank out of time, but not very likely...

 

if timing has jumped, would highly recommend a new tensioner.

Edited by heartless
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I am going to check the belt this afternoon, wish I had done that when I had the end covers off to see if the belt tore the other day.  oh well.

My friend also suggested the friggin MAF.  I am going to invest in that on Monday if we can't find anything else today. 

I will also check the fuse box, I have it half out already when I took out the washer bottle to get to the spark plugs, might as go all the way now.

 

Keep those suggestions coming, I'll get to bottom of this yet.

 

Mark

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Also check to see if you have a security system. If so, there should be a toggle switch or button under the trim panel on driver's side.

Wife had a 98 IOB, which she kept hitting the switch with her knee, causing many frantic calls as to the car will crank but not start.

If so, flick or push the button while holding the key in the start position.

 

O.

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Power to the injectors should be checked. You stated that the injectors aren't getting pulsed so does that mean they have power getting to them? If not, check for power on fuse SBF-2 under the hood. If that is okay then see if the red wire on pin 39 of the ECU has power on it with the ignition switched on. If there is no power on that pin then the Main Relay should be checked to see if power is getting to it from fuse SBF-2. The red wire is the power in and the yel/blu wire is the switched output.

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OK everyone,  I am not an expert mechanic, but from what I see I think the timing has jumped.  I pulled the end covers just now and turned the right cam to the top (painted slot on pulley) to the slot in the timing cover and went to look for the one just like it on the left and found it about 1/4 of a turn before the slot in the timing cover.  I then turned the left cam to the top and found the right 1/4 turn past the top.  NOT GOOD.  Thank goodness this is a 2.2.   I am going to start looking for a belt kit next.   Got to get the second opinion from the mechanic in the morning but I think I found the problem.

 

 Does this explain the no power to the injectors also?   

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 Does this explain the no power to the injectors also? 

i'm not sure, but probably.

it certainly explains why the fuel is not there at the right time.

 

and possibly why the spark is off.

 

odds are good that replacing the timing belt and all idlers, and the water pump 

will get you back on the road.

these engines are very forgiving.

 

if you want to spend some time, and money if you have a shop do it,

reset the timing and fire it up.

it will not run long, it may jump immediately and not start.

but there is a chance it will fire right up.

 

glad you solved it.

 

EDIT: having jumped that far off,

there is a good chance that something is busted,

like the toothed idler.

which stripped some teeth off of the belt,

or something.

 

check the tensioner when replacing the belt.

usually they do not need replacement,

but maybe this time.

Edited by johnceggleston
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I suppose it might be possible to have both cams line up right but still have the main crank out of time, but not very likely...

 

I have seen this a few times.  I always crack the Crank pulley bolt off and check that the keyway is straight down with Cam marks straight up.

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timing belt is on it's way,  car goes in on the 3rd of Jan.   Yeah I think I could do this myself, but no garage and overnight temps are supposed to be near 15 tonight.  Just to COLD.  

 

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all that have helped.  I'll get back to you on the 3rd!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well everyone the Outback is back on the road, in about 10 min I'm going out to change the oil in it but it does run again.  The problem with the timing was the cogged idler had seized up and made the timing jump. We replaced all the parts with a Gates timing belt kit and the car started right up.  Well not right up, the cam sensor that we thought was bad and replaced with a new one gave us some problems.  Turns out the brand new cam sensor was bad right out of the box.  Put the old one back in, changed the plugs again and then it started.  LOTS of smoke in the garage, got the car outside and it cleared right up.  Cleared the computer and now it is at home. 

 

Want to thank everyone here for the great help and thoughts, could never had done it without you.

 

Mark

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Congratulations on fixing your car.  Just for curiosity, how many miles were on the old timing belt and pulleys if you know. 

 

If you bought it used, it's a good lesson for everyone that the first thing to do on purchasing a used subaru [or even other cars] is to change the timing belt and pulleys, unless you are sure that they have been changed.

 

And be very thankful that yours is a non interference engine. 

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We bought the car used so I am not sure of the milage on the parts.  It appears that the belt had been changed at one time, I found that out when I had the motor resealed about 12K ago.  At that time I asked about the belt and was told it was in great shape and to this day it still looks great.  I am thinking it was replaced before I got the car, but nothing else was replaced at that time. The car now has 201K on it and runs quiet. When the body gives out I'd like to hold on to the drivetrain for a just-in-case experience down the road.  The 5 speed trans is starting to get noisy, but I can get one of those at the local Subaru yard for about $300.00. 

The only thing we regret about this experience was that 3 weeks ago I put 4 new snow tires on it and it snowed about 6 inches while the car was down.  No fun in the white stuff this time, but winter is not over yet........

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