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Need to fix a cracked timing cover


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My timing cover is cracked.  One side connector is completely gone (but the others will hold it on good enough I think).  I am concerned about dust & grime getting under the cover where there is a smashed hole (side) and a long horizontal crack in it.  

 

Does anyone have a recommendation on how to fix this?  

Is there a product like an epoxy or resin that will do the trick while holding up under the heat of the engine?

 

Jason

 

 

IMG_20131222_073348.jpg

 

IMG_20131222_073316.jpg

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Need to fix a cracked timing cover.

 

why?

as long as it is not flopping around and rubbing on the belt ,

who cares.

 

there are lots of folks, some off roaders, who run without covers.

 

covers do protect the belt form dirt water snow and damage,

and more protection is better than less,

but a little less is not going to ruin your engine.

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why?

as long as it is not flopping around and rubbing on the belt ,

who cares.

 

there are lots of folks, some off roaders, who run without covers.

 

covers do protect the belt form dirt water snow and damage,

and more protection is better than less,

but a little less is not going to ruin your engine.

 

I'm the kinda guy, who buys a VW Vanagon from CA, because they don't rust like here in CO, drives it home, and then tears out the whole interior to rust proof the interior seams because it "may" have rust (and they did!!).  So, I'm overly cautious (e.g. anal) about things I guess.   :rolleyes:

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Honestly your best bet is to replace the cover. They can be found pretty cheap. Get a new gasket and you can forget about it for the next 105k miles.

 

I ran an EJ without timing covers once (it was an experiment high compression motor with POS parts). I drove it on a lot of dirt roads, and horrible conditions. The belt was worn a lot faster than I'd expect, very dirty, greasy and grimy. With an interferance motor in every day conditions, I'd advise running covers.

On my DD I'd be constantly worried about stuffing it into a snowbank, clogging the belt up and jumping time, getting a rock in there, spilling oil on it during a change or topping up, etc. Not worth it to me.

But that's just my $0.02.

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clean it up and epoxy it, it'll be fine. no big deal.  get those two parts epoxies and clean it well, done.  then you'll have more epoxy for another future project too.  follow the directions on the label.

 

or yeah, replace.  someone on here will have them, i just sold a bunch for that engine.

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maybe some aluminum foil duct tpe to cover where it is busted. I always remove the belt covers as it makes any service much easier without having to remove anything. Coverless alows you to inspect the condition of the belts and idlers at any moment. Especially it will let you see any cam seal leaks, and the oil to drip away instead of slingin' all over the belts.

 

Considering your preferences, i say tpe it up until you can replace it, and replace it along with routine inspection.

 

Just be mindful of getting proper torque on the crank pulley if you do replace it.

Edited by MilesFox
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unless you drive on a lot of heavily snow covered roads - like this...

 

driftedroad.jpg

 

the timing cover is not a huge deal. if you are worried about pieces breaking off, leave it off - it wont hurt a thing.

 

timing covers or no timing covers is more of a personal thing I think, have done it both ways with no major differences - aside from the above conditions causing the timing to jump with no covers on...but mine is a non-interference so no big deal...

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I had the bolt from the TB tensioner loosen up and fall down on the belt, ended up shattering the driver side cover on the DHOC cover.. could of been worst I hated running it without the cover since each time I filled with oil I always would have to put a rag down so it wont drip.

 

I guy on RS 2.5 when I went to pick up some new heads he just threw in all new belt covers and a set of cam wheels for no extra charge, which was great since one of mine got chipped.

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