darsdoug Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 They are stuck tight and my hex only strips them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 Impact screwdriver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 I second that motion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 The "hex" part didnt register in my mind earlier. Dremel a notch in the tops and you can use a large flat screwdriver. An impact screwdriver is still recommended, just with a flat tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted December 26, 2013 Author Share Posted December 26, 2013 o.k. I'll try that. My 5/32" allen wrench type driver tip just won't get it. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 you will want to use metric. That looks like the updated baffle plate. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 o.k. I'll try that. My 5/32" allen wrench type driver tip just won't get it. Thanks. That's why it stripped You need a 4mm. Might still come out with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp98 Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 I have found that when dealing with tight allen head screws not to use a standard L shaped allen wrench. Get a set that will attach to a 3/8 drive ratchet. You can put more pressure and leverage on them that way. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 That's why it stripped You need a 4mm. Might still come out with that. yes. I need at least a .0012 larger driver tip. I didn't think there was that much difference between 5/32" and 4-mm ? but there certainly is. I need to remember what I'm working on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 you will want to use metric. That looks like the updated baffle plate. It's a 99 ej22 block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aschwerin Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 4mm is still a little loose on these. The bolts (ordered from Subaru) don't seem to be of the hardest steel. I think mine were probably Loctite-d in, will try the Dremel trick, and couple it with an impact screwdriver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 The Lisle (craftsman is the same) impact screwdriver has a 1/2" drive on it. You can adapt this to an Allen socket and get them out that way. You have to use a good snap on allen socket, etc or you will chowder the receptacle. I Usually just use a left hand drill bit - it's faster. Once the thread tension is released they typically back right out. Snap on sells a nice stub length mechanics left hand set of 5 bits that is really excellent. GD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone with the wind Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 I tried an easy-out on 2 of mine, found that predrilling with 7/64, then hammering in appropriate size torx, add impact driver = Viola!! Now I need new screws. Suppose I will go for the Dorman 917-034 Oil Separator Cover on Amazon for $23 prime, with screws. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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