Phase 1 EJ25 valve adjustment

[89Ru]

1997 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L DOHC.  JDM engine put in by PO at 170k and I have 60k on top of that.

 

Compression (cold) results:  #1 210, #2 220, #3 220, #4 150

 

That 150 on #4 took its sweet time to get there too.  So am I over the edge for burned valves or just creeping up to it? It runs ok but has been stumbling, real misfires at low rpms lately.  Sounds a little hollow out the tailpipe.  Not idleling rough, seems to be ok on power.  Plugs look all the same.  Leakdown test on #4 warranted?  

 

Will pop the valve covers off tomorrow and check the clearance on the valves.  I'm expecting bucket and shim type vs. the screw adjustable SOHC after '99.  Hoping to be able to pop out the shims without pulling the engine and pick up new shims at the dealer.  Any tricks to this?  Advice on making special tools or just use a wide screwdriver to lever down the bucket?  A friend suggested using a zip-tie to help pull the shims out.  Consensus seems that the exhaust valves are mainly too tight so they stay open and don't cool.  They are best accessed from under the car.

 

 

[86BRATMAN]

The fsm has a diagram of the subaru tool for removing the shims. Without it or something similar, the cam must be removed to get the buckets out.

[idosubaru]

yep, you've done your homework, exhaust valves tighten with age. 

and yes they are bucket/shim design and no fun to adjust.  good luck.

 

no overheating or headgasket issues? 

 

#4 cylinder i believe is most likely to have issues too...but that's just a stab in the dark.

[89Ru]

No gary, lucky me.  Head gaskets were done on the JDM engine.  

 

Maybe I can conjure up a special tool 86Bratman...maybe I'm already in over my head but I hate the thought of burned valves as much as getting the dealer to do this.  

 

no overheating or headgasket issues? 

[86BRATMAN]

You're talking about a large labor bill for the job. Would cut it down significantly if you removed the head and took it to them.

 

On the same subject how tight is too tight? I've built a motor to swap into my 97 sometime this year, ej22 with ej25d heads. I don't remember the numbers now, but I know all the valves were on the tighter side of fsm spec. Is this something I should worry about?

[Gloyale]

Plan on doing the timing belt and Cam seals as well.

 

Pull the valve covers.

 

Check the specs....write them down for each valve.

 

Pull the T-belt and then the Cams (might need cam holder tool for sprockets....sometimes strap wrench works)

 

Remove each bucket one at a time and write down the shim thickness currently on each vavle.  Compare to the measurments earlier and figure your new required shim thickness.  You can sometimes swap a few around and on;y need to buy a few more.

 

Reinstall is reverse.

 

* Make sure to use a good 6 point socket or box end wrench.....fully seated.......when removing cam caps....they are notorious for rounding off/sticking....and are special from the dealer shouldered bolts.

Edited January 3, 2014 by Gloyale

[idosubaru]

Y Is this something I should worry about?

 

guess it depends on how tight, how many miles you'd like to run the car.

 

I'd like to hear from Gloyale or Ivansimports or someone with a lot of experience - how often do they give warnings before catastrophic issues?  If they always do then that gives you time and little risk of major damage.  that would make me feel better about risking it.

 

would you rather put the time in:

1. now for sure

2. later - maybe

 

Or put it another way....

1.  if you're capable of repairing if it does happen and won't be too bothered if it does - then it may be a good fit to run it.  burned valves certainly aren't "common" - though that's relative.

2.  if you're paying significant money for parts/labor/build/time - then probably best to get it just right now.  burned valves do happen and would be annoying for many people.

 

most of us probably fall somewhere in the middle.