tbolt1003 Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 (edited) Hi all!! While driving earlier (95 Impreza L wagon, 2.2), the battery light and brake light in the instrument cluster came on suddenly. My Impreza seemed to be running fine, although the wipers did seem to be going slightly slower than usual. The brakes work fine. When I got home a few minutes later, I shut the car off and tried to restart it. It started fine. I put a volt meter on the battery posts with the engine running and I was only getting 11.5V. I then put the (+) lead on the alternator post and I was still only getting 11.5V. I turned the headlights off and the voltage moved up to 11.7V. If I revved the engine , the voltage stayed at 11.5-11.7. My battery was brand new about 2 months ago (Interstate). If I pull my emergency brake, the Brake light in the instrument cluster gets brighter, like it should when the brake handle is pulled. When I released the parking brake, the brake light dimmed but didn't go out. Is my alternator going bad? Edited January 5, 2014 by tbolt1003 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishy Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Something sure isn't right. you should be getting up over 14v at the battery terminals with the engine running.I'm certainly no genius but I'd guess alternator was going bad if my car had those symptoms. Anyone else want to pile-on here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperBrat Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Start car, take off positive battery cable while running if car dies good chance alt is toast, still runs then should be good, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbolt1003 Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 Start car, take off positive battery cable while running if car dies good chance alt is toast, still runs then should be good, Engine quit running Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outbailey Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Check the battery terminals for corrosion and/or loose connections. Clean as necessary. Also, check the connections at the alternator for any loose wires. If everything looks good, use a DVOM or a standard voltmeter and check the voltage between the positive cable of the alternator and the negative terminal at the battery (or any good ground) while the engine is running. If the alternator output is 14v or above, the alternator is good and the battery may not be taking a charge. If the voltage is under 12v or is the same as the battery voltage, than the alternator is malfunctioning. Hope this helps achieve a proper Dx. As far as the brake light, simply check the brake fluid level. If low, add DOT3 brake fluid to (but do not fill) brake master cylinder. If the light turns off than you may need to inspect your brake linings. If the brake light is still on, check the master cylinder for any loose wiring or connection problems. Sometimes gently tapping the master cylinder can dislodge a stuck float that activates the indicator light. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbolt1003 Posted January 6, 2014 Author Share Posted January 6, 2014 Check the battery terminals for corrosion and/or loose connections. Clean as necessary. Also, check the connections at the alternator for any loose wires. If everything looks good, use a DVOM or a standard voltmeter and check the voltage between the positive cable of the alternator and the negative terminal at the battery (or any good ground) while the engine is running. If the alternator output is 14v or above, the alternator is good and the battery may not be taking a charge. If the voltage is under 12v or is the same as the battery voltage, than the alternator is malfunctioning. Hope this helps achieve a proper Dx. As far as the brake light, simply check the brake fluid level. If low, add DOT3 brake fluid to (but do not fill) brake master cylinder. If the light turns off than you may need to inspect your brake linings. If the brake light is still on, check the master cylinder for any loose wiring or connection problems. Sometimes gently tapping the master cylinder can dislodge a stuck float that activates the indicator light. Good luck. I connected the negative lead of the voltmeter to the (-) terminal of the battery. Positive lead of meter to (+) post of battery, I get 11.5V with the engine running. Moved the (+) meter lead to the alternator post and get the same 11.5V. Terminals are nice and tight. Looks like I'm replacing an alternator on the coldest night in 20 years here in PA tomorrow. Yikes!! I'll double check the brake fluid level. The car was inspected (3) months ago and had the brakes done as well as the brake fluid flushed. Thanks for the replies so far. This website rocks!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
later_Peter Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 go to the dealer. tell the parts guy you want the rebuilt alternator for about $80 (or less)... this has been a problem & this was Subaru's resolution.... (it's a pretty easy replacement job) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbolt1003 Posted January 6, 2014 Author Share Posted January 6, 2014 go to the dealer. tell the parts guy you want the rebuilt alternator for about $80 (or less)... this has been a problem & this was Subaru's resolution.... (it's a pretty easy replacement job) $80? Wow, that's a deal. I just pulled the alternator out of the car. Under 5 minutes to remove it. Hopefully the replacement goes in just as easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave804 Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 (edited) Be careful pulling the batt cables on a modern car. Once running the battery is the bank to absorb any overage in voltage. All it takes is once instance of a surge killing your ECU to learn. Don't ask how I know haha. Also another vote for the alt. Seems like your VR is working if you get variance based on load. At least the alternator is up there on top! I'd rather get a new car than change a water cooled BMW alt. in this weather lol. Edited January 6, 2014 by Dave804 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp98 Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 You also might want to charge the battery up to capacity with a battery charger and not with the alternatior. Also test the battery voltage both with it disconnected from the car, with it connected to the car, and while the car is running to make sure everything is working right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 You definitely have a bad alternator and it is good the battery light came on to indicate that. That light circuit needs to work in order for the alternator to work. The current through the warning light supplies power to the exciter of the alternator. As was also mentioned you should recharge the battery using a battery charger before installing the alternator. Be careful of the main lead to the alternator and don't let it touch anything if the battery is connected. That lead is hot to the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbolt1003 Posted January 6, 2014 Author Share Posted January 6, 2014 Thanks for all the help! "New" alternator ordered and should have it by the end of the day. Once I get it installed, I'll report my results and voltages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Alternator is going bad. Start car, take off positive battery cable while running if car dies good chance alt is toast, still runs then should be good,This is a horrible test, and is a great way to fry control modules, and can also overwork and fry the voltage regulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 go to the dealer. tell the parts guy you want the rebuilt alternator for about $80 (or less)... this has been a problem & this was Subaru's resolution.... (it's a pretty easy replacement job) Dealer alt from subaru for $80??? I don't think so. I paid about $230 for the last alt I bought from the dealer........and they discounted it for me from almost $300 What dealer are you getting these for $80 bucks from? And are you certain they are Subaru genuine remans.......I've seen dealers sell non subaru parts for some of the 90's cars. (EMPI axles, Continental belts, And "six star" fuel filters) I just can't believe they would sell genuine subaur alt for half the price of Autozoner crap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Yep, only for the 95-99 Legacy. It's an 85 amp unit. Some big recall on them years ago so they had thousands of cores to rebuild and they could do them pretty cheap. Part number: 23700AA210 Lists for about $79. +$50 core 1stsubaruparts.com sells them for $68. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbolt1003 Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 I got the new alternator installed last night in about 5 minutes. Everything is back to normal. The battery and brake lights in the dash cluster are out and I'm getting a steady 14.5V across the board at the battery and alternator post. Thanks again, everyone, for your help!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Good to hear you got it fixed without much trouble. You're welcome for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nbe1210 Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 The same lights came on in my car (97 Legacy Brighton) yesterday morning, brake and battery. I drove home after work and my radio and speedometer would go on and off as I hit the brakes and blinker. I foolishly covered my ears and eyes and tried to get to and from work today thinking I had enough juice. It started like a champ this morning so I thought was ok. Now my car is dead on the side of the road and I am trying to find an alternator so I can get it going after work today. At least my car died near a coworkers house so I got to work. I'll get back with the results of my new alternator. I saw some people say to charge with a battery charger. Will it hurt to jump it and get it home after the alternator is in and then charge it with the charger? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Will it hurt to jump it and get it home after the alternator is in and then charge it with the charger? No, it won't hurt anything. Depending on how far you drive, your replacement alternator may sufficiently charge the battery enough, that you don't need to further charge the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nbe1210 Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 (edited) Replaced the alternator on the side of the road in the dark. It took about 30 minutes. I would like to thank the engineer who used only 2 sizes of bolts and adding a tension screw. also the person who invented the headlamp. Everything is running smooth and all the lights have gone off. Success. Edited January 18, 2014 by Nbe1210 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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