Choke help

[Luvn737s]

EA82 Carb that starts hard cold, but easy when warm. Any guidelines for setting the auto choke position?

 

[silverback]

Do you know the carb designation? For example;  'DCZ328-XXXX'.  Manual transmission or auto?  Does it have a vacuum dashpot linked to it?  Electrical connection?

There are several locations to set gaps on the linkages. It is difficult to describe with only text. Chilton manuals are not very good. Subaru FSM is excellent. I have a FSM for 1987. I have no need for the carb section. The cams of '85 and '87 are different.  I am guessing the choke activity is very similar.

 

Before tearing anything apart, several areas need to be checked.  Is this problem new?  Have you recently worked on the carb? How is your gas mileage?  Have you checked your timing belts?

[Gloyale]

They are all DCZ-328 carbs.  the numbers on the end don't matter.

 

Don't worry about the G1/G2 clearance crap from the FSM...that's mostly about secondary opening angles.  Cams don't matter.

 

 

 

My guess is the bi-metal spring has broken the hooked end off.  Very common.

 

You will need to drill out the rivets holding the choke cap.  Also knock off the little notch on the choke housing to let the housing rotate.

 

Bend a new hook end on the spring, loosen the clamp from the pull off diaphragm and rotate the spring around to where the new hook will catch the choke lever.

 

Use new screws to reattach the the housing cap.

 

A carb rebuild kit will have screws, and a good blow up of the carb.  It would be a good idea to pull the top off and replace hte Air horn o-rings, and clean out the emulsion tubes while your working on it.

[Luvn737s]

No, I haven't done anything with the carb, but I bought the car not running so I don't know how it used to start. I'll check the spring.