Mating existing 4EAT with replacement (JDM) Engine - flex plate bolts hit?

[serrs]

First, we've mated up 4EATs at least 5 times over the last 6 years.  We understand some basic things like the Torque Converter can slide out.  We've relearned technique (even today) on how to get it slide back in the transmission.  That said, I'm 99% sure it is in there fine.  (We had a TZ102 on the floor to look at as a reference)

 

The transmission is the original TZ1A2 in my 1999 Outback.  My brother and I had it all mated up to the JDM EJ25D.  We got all the bolts that connect the flex plate with the TC in place.  Then, we tighted one bolt down, and went to turn the crank to get to the next bolt and it stopped (hard).  There are 4 bolts, and at 90 degrees the crank stops with a clunk.

 

My brother says we need to swap flex plates, going with the one that was on the old engine.

 

I'm reluctant to believe that is our problem.

 

Are the flex plate bolts hitting something?  Has anyone had this problem?  Is it obvious that you should keep the flex plate grouped with the transmission?

 

(PS- we tried trimming 3 threads off an extra bolt to see if that would keep the bolt end from hitting something, no joy.)

 

Help?  Much appreciated.

Edited January 12, 2014 by serrs

[Fairtax4me]

There were differences in the flexplates between 2.2 and 2.5 engines. If your original trans was mated a 2.5 and you have a 2.5 flexplate it should be fine.

 

Did you put all 4 bolts in then tighten 1, leaving the heads of the other 3 bolts sticking out?

 

Can you spin the torque converter freely a full turn if its not bolted to the flexplate? (Might have to remove the starter to get your hand/finger in there to spin the TC)

Can you spin the engine a full turn freely if its not bolted to the TC?

[ocei77]

You need to tighten the bolts further. When just finger tight the last one or two will now be sticking up.

Have had this happen a few times.

 

O.

[presslab]

The two different flex plates have a different bolt circle, so I don't think that's your problem. Make sure you have the right bolts; the correct bolts have a flange head that is shorter than normal.

[idosubaru]

does the engine positively turn over fine itself (without the trans connected)?  make sure it's actually related to flexplate issue.

 

i like the mention of a bolt not fully seated hitting something.

 

the timing belt is in place and properly time - it's positively aligned correctly and not interfering?

 

there's a lower access cover plate that can get bent too, check that?  i've had engines make noise due to rubbing that plate, so i suppose if it's bent up enough it could also interfere.

 

it's not your problem (i doubt) but in general it's best to keep the flexplate married to the engine as it's fitment there that varies.

 

the obvious way to tell if the TC was seated is that before installing the flex plate bolts - the torque converter and flexplate do not touch, if they do then it isn't seated fully.  the flexplate bolt actually draw the two together. 

[serrs]

Thanks for each reply.  I can only believe that my time spent answering questions on XDA/Android forums caused some good karma.

 

So to clarify, when all the flexplate-to-TC bolts are finger-tight they don't rub or knock anything.  It's only when one is tightened.  I had the idea to 1/2 way tighten one, then go 180 degrees and tighten another to make sure it wasn't tilted, but we got bad run/knock there too.

 

We are able to turn crank fine when everything is finger-tight.  We are 99% sure timing/belt/valves are good, but 100% sure it's not causing this problem.

 

Garry may have it though!  Lower plate seemed to be catching as we were bring the AT in, so we used a thin/flexible sheet of metal to shoehorn the transmission above it.  We will have to look hard. We'll also make sure the flexplate and TC are not touching before bolts.

[idosubaru]

good memory, then check that joker and see if it's been compromised in some way.  and make sure the 2 10mm bolts that hold it in place are tight, they're a bear to get to insitu. not a huge deal but for being something so benign and simple they're annoying to forget.

Edited January 12, 2014 by grossgary

[johnceggleston]

is this the same car that you were trying to install the TZ102Z1DBA jdm tans into, a 99 outback wagon auto?

 

if the JDM engine was bolted to a 4.11 trans in the JDM market,

then there is a really good chance you need to swap the flex plates.

in the us, the 4.11 ratio auto trans have the smaller TC and flex plate.

the 4.44 auto trans have the larger TC and flex plate.

[serrs]

is this the same car that you were trying to install the TZ102Z1DBA jdm tans into, a 99 outback wagon auto?

 

Yes, same car.  Thanks for your ideas!

 

You need to tighten the bolts further. When just finger tight the last one or two will now be sticking up.

Have had this happen a few times.

 

O.

 

 

Holly crap... Today, good report from my brother.. he removed 3 bolts.  Then he tightened the remaining 1 bolt tight, it did not hit as he turned the crank, then he put in the next bolt tight and so on.  Nothing hits or clunks now.  Strange, the tolerance must be really tight. 

 

We gave this little weight at first, but it solved our problem!  Thanks ocei77!