01 Outback replacing starter advice? & finding a coolant leak?

[fcoben]

Hi everyone, I've got two questions for you. First, I'm replacing the starter on my 2001 outback. It's a 2.5L engine, if that makes a difference. I've been having trouble starting for a while(sometimes on the first cold start of the day, but not always)- a single click and then nothing for several tries, then it starts like nothing was wrong and runs fine. Battery was replaced within the last two years. It's not the battery. Headlights, radio, heat/ac, dashboard light- everything electrical turns on just fine. 

 

It finally has refused to start at all, and makes a noise exactly like a household vacuum when it tries to start. (whuuuuurrrrr whuuuuurrrr) I'm guessing this means that it's past the point of just replacing the contacts and needs a whole new starter because the starter motor is done for. (because of the vacuum sound, right? I'm new to this but that's what my forum scrolling has indicated.) 

 

So! I need a new starter. Recommendations for brands/suppliers? I can't seem to tell which is the OEM, and 1stsubaruparts.com surprisingly wants a lot more for theirs than places like auto parts warehouse's remanufactured ones. 

 

2nd question! I went on a 10-hour drive over the holidays, and on an uphill mountain pass the engine started blowing smoke/steam (it was pretty white, but still smelled smoky so I'm not sure which it was) from the back of the engine, slightly to the driver's side, and we discovered the coolant was basically empty, so we refilled it and it ran more smoothly, but last week it was empty again. I assume this means there's a leak. Advice on locating the leak? Or does this sound like there could be something else going on entirely that I haven't thought of? I just replaced the spark plugs and valve cover gaskets. It's been one thing after another lately at the 100,000 mile mark. I don't think it's a head gasket issue, though. 

 

thanks so much for your help. I'm very much a beginner at doing my own work on my car, so feel free to be really specific for the benefit of a newcomer! 

Edited January 18, 2014 by fcoben

[propane]

 

 Safe to assume a head
gasket leak considering it failed under extreme load and the color of steam
/white smoke and should be considered a major issue. Coolant leaks at that
mileage would be common. Shops can verify by testing for combustion gases at
the radiator cap.  To isolate leaks, (if
the leak cannot be seen visually) ultra violet dyes and light can pin point
leaks (done by shops). Coolant should have been changed, along with flushing of
entire system, around 24 month interval, as coolant contains “add packs “from manufacturer
that eventually break down. Coolants are fairly specific to OEM standards, before
mixing diff types, the fine print specs should be read.  

 Starters are not that
hard to change, and it is a matter of getting what you pay for.

 

[987687]

It sounds like you have a combination of bad contacts in the stater, and/or a sticking plunger causing the gear not to stick out into the flywheel/torque converter. If it's a manual/auto.

You can either take the starter apart, replace the contacts and lube all the gears, or just replace it.

 

I wouldn't jump to conclusions about the headgaskets immediately.

First, a hydrocarbon test will not show headgasket failures on that motor, it's an external leak, so there's no coolant mixing with exhaust or oil. Sometimes they also leak oil, but almost never mix anything inside the engine. Put some UV dye in the cooling system and clean the bottom of the engine really well. If you see the yellow/green leaking out of the head gaskets under a blacklight, yea, that's the problem.

You can do the UV dye test yourself, just dump it in the radiator, and check for leaks with a blacklight.

But you could also have a leak in the heater pipes, on the crossover pipe, etc. There are a few places for a leak to happen besides just the headgaskets.

 

 

Just a note, you said you passed 100k miles, you're almost at the timing belt interval (105k miles), so you should do that as well.

Edited January 18, 2014 by 987687

[timintc]

refill your cooling system making sure you have all the air bubbles out then start it back up and check your coolant overflow, if you have bubbles its your HG. Hate to say it but have been thru 4 of them so far so no matter how much you hope its an easy solution its most probably your HG.

[J A Blazer]

I would still replace the contacts and plunger and see if that isn't all that the starter needs. If you need some tips on how to remove the starter let me know; been there done that on my 2000 OBW, and learned some tricks along the way.

[J A Blazer]

Here is how I removed the starter in my 2000 4cyl OBW w/ AT after many unsuccessful false starts.  Place car on ramps.  Not necessary to remove either front wheel.  Disconnect battery.  Relocate hood support so as to permit additional access to rear portion of engine compartment.  Remove air filter housing.  Locate starter and remove power connections.  Loosen top bolt, 14 mm I believe.  Some people claim they can remove the lower starter bolt from above, but I could not.  Take a long stick and from the top, place so as to touch the lower bolt - this will help you see where it is in the next step.   On your back or on a creeper approach undercarriage from the front (not the side.)  With bright illumination locate the stick that points to the lower starter bolt.  With a 14mm socket on a wobbler and about 12" of extensions approach the lower starter bolt by going in from above the automatic transmission filter.  Remove the lower bolt.  Go back up above and remove the loosened top bolt.  Lift out starter. 

 

If any aspect of this does not make sense let me know and I will try to clarify.

[987687]

I never pull the hood for a starter. I just remove the airbox, reach down there and pull the bolts out. You can get to them from the top with a long socket extension. It's kinda sucky, but it's doable.

You just need the right length extension so you can swing the socket between the back of the starter and the firewall. Or use a right angle air ratchet, because air tools make everything better

[J A Blazer]

I'm not suggesting 'pulling' the hood, simply making it more vertical.

[Suzam]

the '01 2.5's are documented for head gasket external leaking you should see evidence of the leak under the car where the head meets the block, they usually just seep and drip.

 

Did you use the Subaru head gasket stop leak? You should put the approved Subaru stop leak in every time the coolant is changed.

Get some right away and follow the directions.

Edited January 20, 2014 by Suzam