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leaking water pump...options


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I've had a bit of a flow on effect after fixing the coolant bypass hose on my Forester - my thermostat started leaking, which I then fixed, but now my water pump has started leaking from where it mates on to the block.

 

My car needs a timing belt done in about six weeks so I will be putting on a new water pump at that time. What are my options in the meantime to stop/slow down the leak? Can I tighten the water pump up without removing the crank pulley? 

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My water pump has been leaking, 96 legacy (liberty 261,000 miles). I  have had to add about a pint of fluid every other day as it drips out. You could get by if you keep a bottle of coolant on board, and top it off between drives. Best do it when the engine is warm and the thermostat is opne. You may have to burp out bbubbles.

 

When the heater goes cold, it is time to add coolant before it's too low causing an overheat.

 

If the coolant leverl is too low on a cold start, the temp gauge may show abnormally low as there is no coolant flowing over it, and then suddenly spike as the coolant boils over.

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^^^ my comments reflect my experience of what to expect with a history of high mileage cars. I was suggesting what can get you by, but i don't suggest relying on that. Myself, i wouldn't want to trust my car over the road as the belt is at risk for failure. But mine is non interference, and i would detect the signs of when enough is enough before i should park it of fix it. I can fix it and have the parts, just need to put the car down to do the work.

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Looks like the timing job will be fast tracked to this weekend. Thanks for the info guys.

 

Couple questions regarding the timing job - do the ej motors run a gasket on the water pump or rtv? Anything special I should know for the job? I've done an ej timing job with my dad when I was younger but this'll be the first time by myself. Any helpful tips?

Edited by rxleone
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Usually it is Grossgary beating the OEM gasket, but we all learn eventually!  Those paper gaskets are horrible  Surprisingly, the gasket at the dealer is cheaper than the crappy one from a parts store (in this case).  I used some ultra grey on one side of the gasket to hold it to the water pump when placing it.

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Thanks for the info. I'm seeing a lot of conflicting info regarding whether or not the water pump gasket goes on dry. I'm getting a genuine Subaru gasket (rubber coated metal) - do I need to use any sealant or can it go on dry?

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Subaru gaskets go on dry, definitely.  far more robust than flimsy aftermarket cardboard.  they are never sealed, there's no need to.  if you're seeing conflicting info feel free to post a link to it - or see if it's a different engine.

Edited by grossgary
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