rxleone Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 I've had a bit of a flow on effect after fixing the coolant bypass hose on my Forester - my thermostat started leaking, which I then fixed, but now my water pump has started leaking from where it mates on to the block. My car needs a timing belt done in about six weeks so I will be putting on a new water pump at that time. What are my options in the meantime to stop/slow down the leak? Can I tighten the water pump up without removing the crank pulley? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolskaterkid Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 More then likely The bearings in the pump are getting tired, and let the weep hole start leaking, i think u have to take center timing belt cover off, witch would mean the crank pulley and other covers, with more then likely no effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 My water pump has been leaking, 96 legacy (liberty 261,000 miles). I have had to add about a pint of fluid every other day as it drips out. You could get by if you keep a bottle of coolant on board, and top it off between drives. Best do it when the engine is warm and the thermostat is opne. You may have to burp out bbubbles. When the heater goes cold, it is time to add coolant before it's too low causing an overheat. If the coolant leverl is too low on a cold start, the temp gauge may show abnormally low as there is no coolant flowing over it, and then suddenly spike as the coolant boils over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Nothing to solve the problem other than change it. Do the TBelt early, better than loosing the belt due to a frozen pump. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Just replace It early. I wouldn't risk overheating the engine or having the pump lock up and split the belt. Either of those means a much much bigger repair than a simple timing kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 ^^^ my comments reflect my experience of what to expect with a history of high mileage cars. I was suggesting what can get you by, but i don't suggest relying on that. Myself, i wouldn't want to trust my car over the road as the belt is at risk for failure. But mine is non interference, and i would detect the signs of when enough is enough before i should park it of fix it. I can fix it and have the parts, just need to put the car down to do the work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxleone Posted January 20, 2014 Author Share Posted January 20, 2014 (edited) Looks like the timing job will be fast tracked to this weekend. Thanks for the info guys. Couple questions regarding the timing job - do the ej motors run a gasket on the water pump or rtv? Anything special I should know for the job? I've done an ej timing job with my dad when I was younger but this'll be the first time by myself. Any helpful tips? Edited January 20, 2014 by rxleone 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolskaterkid Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Yes for a water pump gasket, get the dealer or factory one that is rubber coated metal, the paper ones are not up to task, some say they rtv it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upnorthguy Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Usually it is Grossgary beating the OEM gasket, but we all learn eventually! Those paper gaskets are horrible Surprisingly, the gasket at the dealer is cheaper than the crappy one from a parts store (in this case). I used some ultra grey on one side of the gasket to hold it to the water pump when placing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec03 Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Here is a step by step procedure for the 2.2 engine. There are some great u tube videos to do it too. http://lovehorsepower.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48:1995-subaru-legacy-outback-timing-belt-and-water-pump-replacement&catid=10:subaru-legacy&Itemid=64 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxleone Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 Thanks for the info. I'm seeing a lot of conflicting info regarding whether or not the water pump gasket goes on dry. I'm getting a genuine Subaru gasket (rubber coated metal) - do I need to use any sealant or can it go on dry? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec03 Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 I didn't and it sealed fine. I used an OEM gasket. I would recommend buying it from the dealer and inspect it to be sure it's flat. It's difficult to get in the confined space if it's warped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 (edited) Subaru gaskets go on dry, definitely. far more robust than flimsy aftermarket cardboard. they are never sealed, there's no need to. if you're seeing conflicting info feel free to post a link to it - or see if it's a different engine. Edited January 23, 2014 by grossgary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxleone Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 Thanks for the heads up. Got the parts this afternoon so will let you know how I go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxleone Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 (edited) Looks like the leaking water pump was a blessing in disguise...this timing belt looks ready to give up at any time! Edited January 24, 2014 by rxleone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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