CNY_Dave Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Lower ball joint time- yay! Detected a tiny bit of wanderlust in the sterring, bit of play in a lower front BJ. I have cleaned the gap to expose the bit of the BJ and threads, heated with the blue wrench and let some kroil hopefully get sucked into the joint and threads. I guess I'll be searching for that homemade BJ puller thread... I will keep the slot doused with penetrating oil, and will heat the heack out of the part the bolt threads into when I pull it. Next week hopefully... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Tip drill from backside of pinch bolt by drilling a 1/4 inch into threads will help to release bolt without breakage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Drill into the end of the pinch bolt? Does that mean a new bolt is required? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 (edited) Generally, a new ball joint will supply a new pinch bolt Edited January 26, 2014 by MilesFox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razorthirty Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Drill into the end of the pinch bolt? Does that mean a new bolt is required? It is recommended to use a new bolt, i have done many using the old bolt however, you end up separating them during cv axel replacements as well, which i have done too many of.. but yeah, should be fine to use the old bolt, just put it back exactly as it came out as they tend to bend into shape a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 The thread side not head side yes a new bolt is a good idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 yes - thread side. i always reuse the bolts, i assume the Subaru bolts are probably higher quality than aftermarket stuff and the aftermarkets have different sized bolt heads. you end up separating them during cv axel replacements as well, removing the strut bolt is much easier way to do the axle so many of us don't use that ball joint method. or at least here in the rust belt. some ball joints can not even come out with tools, torches, or soaking. it's only 1 out of 20 or 30 that are that bad but for people doing a lot of them - the ball joints need broken, chiseled, and then the remaining bits drilled out little pieces at a time, or the last few shell pieces ground out, when they're that bad. in rust prone areas you are best to avoid ball joints at all cost, of all the easy jobs they are by far the riskiest. this is why dave is posting this thread - for those out west/south this wouldn't need posted. pop it out and replace. in the rust belt there's a small chance it could turn into a debacle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Just did to ball joints on a 97 Legacy last week, bolts and ball joints came right out, I love Colorado Cars! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 I get some bad ones have spent hours on that one bolt just to change the knuckle after fighting a hopeless battle when I turn it I watch the other side of bolt to see if it turns if not stop ! until it dose makes you wish Subaru would have antiseized them from factory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Lowes- useless. No 1.5 black pipe caps (I have the rest of the black pipe bits already), and get thisd- they stopped carrying taps (not that I was too hopeful they'd have the right size).I cut the head off a 3/4 grade-8 bolt and used a 1/2-inch black-pipe union to join the bolt and a spare open-ended lug nut, brazed with a tight-fit.\Ground/sanded off the chrome at the coating on the bolt first.Those gold bolts- cad plated? Plenty of air etc when I did it, now the garage is frigging cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 dave - i'm lost on black pipe stuff and 3/4 1/2 inch, and chrome coating and gold bolts...put the beer down and check the URL - are you posting about your bike, furnace, or....lol interesting...no taps. auto parts stores around here usually have them... Just did to ball joints on a 97 Legacy last week, bolts and ball joints came right out, I love Colorado Cars! i pulled the ball joint on my XT6 to do a wheel bearing a week or two ago - it was amazing! remove bolt, pop out the ball joint. every brake job and bolt has been a breeze. well worth having it shipped from CA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 (edited) I can get a rusty bolt out, but one that has already been beaten up or over torqued are the ones to snap off. Don't he-man on the torque, and you will be able to get it off next time. Use 6sided tools when available. I just replaced the ball joint in my forester (along with failed control arm due to RUST) to discover it had been previously serviced, evidenced by a long bolt with a nut on the other side, and part of the knuckle scarred from drilling out the old bolt. if the bolt breaks and must be drilled out, a through-bolt is just as good. The factory bolt threads into the knuckle. Drilling mey remove these threads. The shank of the bolt will retain the ball joint without torque as there is a groove on the ball joint socket end. It's not a lost battle if it breaks. as long as you have a good drill bit. Be prepared to remove the whole knuckle so that you can take it to a bench. For the same labor you can swap another knuckle, depending on cost. Good luck! Edited January 28, 2014 by MilesFox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 those "through bolts" repairs are common around here, i see it all the time on Subarus. i've had anti-seize slathered parts be very difficult to separate before after only a couple years, 99% sure once was a ball joint...only a time or two but i recall being surprised and wondering if there was something better or what i missed that time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 I'm counting on heat, planning to get the threaded end a bit red. I have plenty of metal plates to use to shield the CV joint, and the acetylene torch can get it cherry (and hopefully loose) and I think I can can cool it before the wheel bearing takes a lot of heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 I couldn't get the bolt on my '96 even after drilling out the back of the bolt. I ended up just drilling out the entire bolt and then using a longer bolt to 'bolt through'. The thing that really hung me up is when I drilled out the bolt, a very small amount of metal remained inside engaging the ball joint lip, and it would not come out like that. Once I figured out that's what was keeping the ball joint from popping out it wasn't too bad. But I snapped the drill bit off in the hole, plus I was using a cordless drill, and when the bit got stuck and snapped, the drill kicked and punched me in the face and pushed my head into something sharp under the car. That wasn't the best wrenching day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 What do you mean its going to cost me 500 $ to do one ball joint ! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickb21 Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 It's too bad these won't fit in a flat-rate box (will they?). I would buy a dozen from the south/southwest just to hand out to all the people who have to swear over these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 I thought in the south they just fell out when you asked them nicely? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 I use the bolts that hold the front diff on the 4eat just the right length for a bolt /nut combo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted January 30, 2014 Author Share Posted January 30, 2014 Well, now I have lots of time to work on it. Got laid off today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 Ball joint is in. Tool worked great!Got the area around bolt pretty red to get it to loosen.I shielded the CV boot well, don't think the wheel bearing took a lot of heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 BTW napa has the 12x1.25 tap in the sprk-plug repair section, 6 bucks. Used my brazed-on lug nut though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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