thefarmboy21 Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 I've got a 92 legacy sedan with the EJ22. I recently broke the crank sensor off in the motor. I've read all about that part and seems like it will be a pain but that's not my real issue. My REAL question is is this: Is there a crank sensor conversion and/or adapter I can use to replace the old style crank sensor. I've researched and researched and the sensor for the 90-92 model (pc189 I think) is like $200 BUT the sensor for a 93 model (PC 159 I think) look to be the same size and shape minus how the harness hooks in and it's like $20-$30 CAN I cut the wires off my old sensor and splice them into the two prongs on the 93 model sensor and make it run again???? Or is there anyway to DO AWAY with the stupid thing all together? Also any removal tips would be helpful but I think I know what I need to do. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 What you need to find out is if the sensors see the same values or not. If they see the same values, have the same amount of wires in the harness, then maybe it's worth a try. Personally, I'd find a bone yard car with less miles than what you have and roll the dice as it'd be way cheaper than a ridiculous $200 for something so small and common. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 The only difference I can imagine would be the shape of the connector. All it is is a magnetic pickup sensor. They all work the same way. Personally, I'd grab a few from a junkyard. They're small enough to stick in your pocket, and they practically never to bad. If you can't get to a yard to pull a few yourself check out car-part.com to see if anywhere nearby has one. Or post a want ad in the classifieds here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 If you splice into the harness wires and find it "works" OK. Make SURE to buy some heat shrink wrap and do a long section of the wire and seal it REALLY good as they might be sensitive to moisture (O2 wires are VERY sensitive and can throw codes just from moisture being on the wires of a perfectly OK sensor). I'd personally solder these types of connections then shrink wrap to seal the deal and prevent future issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 i've removed them before when they broke off - it's not that hard actually. annoying to do when it should just come out, but in the end it's only a few minutes to get it out and you're done. do not buy new - just get a used one, or two for pocket change. they don't fail often enough to worry about and if you antiseize everything up it'll come back out no problem if you ever need to replace it again. new is overkill. i'll send you a "newer" style 1995+ used crank sensor for $5 if you want one to play with and attempt. your idea of converting sounds like a good option if it's physically the same size. like fairtax said it's just a basic pick up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefarmboy21 Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 Well there's just a few problems with finding a used one: 1. It's common for them all to break off. 2. It's next to impossible to find any subarus around here pre about 99ish. And 3. The temps are in the negatives here. I'm going to stop at the parts store this week and see if I can hold the two side by side. The difference I can see from pictures is just the harness plugs. One has about a 15" lead as the other plugs right into the side. Mine has the lead that has three wires and then merges and only two actually go into the sensor (white and black) The newer ones take a two prong plug....so I'm thinking "hey I can just cut my two wires off at the sensor and plug them onto the prongs of the 93 style sensor. The only problem I see is that if they don't read the same way as someone stated. But I'm gonna try regardless because I can just take the sensor back, no harm done. It just seems crazy that's there's such an EXTREME price difference. I just can't believe as common as this is, no one has came up with a cheaper fix for the older cars.....unless there is none other than the $200 sensor haha. I'm not too tore up because the car was free and looks like crap. I was going to derby it but it ran/drove good so I hated to just waste it. Figure I'd drive it til it fell apart. But I'm not paying $200 for a sensor for a car worth $500 running lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 The new style sensors will swap over. I've done it before when I had an engine go down in a 95 wagon. If you're going to switch it out to the newer one make sure you grab the plug and a few inches of wiring to make an adapter harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Oh, since I just saw your last post, the post 99 sensor will work too. I get you on the temperature tho, it's been a cold winter in VA too. I've got a could extra engine harnesses laying around as well as sensors I could ship and ship. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefarmboy21 Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 Well I sure hope it works! I don't need a harness or anything. I have all I need except the sensor itself but I think it's only 20-30 dollars and I can get it local no problem. And I'd rather go buy one that way I know I can return it if it don't work.....because I used to work there and et a good discount anyway. So for any tips for gettin it out of the block. Especially since it's cold out? There are no nubs sticking up or anything :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 If you have a dremel, use a high speed bit (looks like a rounded off drill bit with finer grooves) and put 2 opposing holes through as far as it'll go. From there, run a sharp screw through both holes enough that they are biting. Take a screw driver and wedge horizontally between the 2 and see if it'll twist or not. A little WD40 might help. If it's still not budging (don't over do it in case they snap) try some propane heat around the hole while twisting with the screw driver. It'll come out. Just watch where the heat goes. Maybe wrap a wet rag around anything you want protected and wad up some aluminum foil and force that into the crevices near by to deflect the heat briefly. (I've never seen your engine so unsure what's directly near it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 they don't do that all that often, i've only ever had one break off, all the rest have come out. i've got a bunch of them. lots of us have used crank sensors - i could mail you however many used ones you want. paypal $8 and i'll send two, keep one in the glove box as a spare. i just bash them apart with assorted screw drivers, punches, nails, etc. they're all plastic and 134 miles of hair thin copper wire once you get down deep enough and some weak metal. they aren't hard to get out - just have an assortment of goodies like that and start breaking it to pieces. have a couple thin/stout screw drivers to drive between the sensor outer casing and the aluminum of the block/oil pump. it'll start to cave inward and break it's bond. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefarmboy21 Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 I don't know why it wouldn't come out....it would twist all around but wouldn't budge upward. I thought maybe there was an O-ring on it or something Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefarmboy21 Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Just wanted to let everyone know that the swap DID work! At Autozone and O'Reilly the sensor for my car (with wires) was $249.99.....I bought one for a 95 model (no wires) for $22.99 and a pack of mini female butt connectors for $5.99 and cut my broken sensor, crimped on two connectors, stuck it in and it fired right up first try. Wires go in same location as the go into the old sensor (red closest to mounting tab) Needless to say I was pretty happy! Now I just have to figure out why it wants to die at stop signs. It's throwing a knock sensor code, so that maybe it. It's only $12 so no big deal. Thanks for all the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Did you disconnect the battery to let the ECM reset? Also, check the wires going to the knock sensor and the connector. Also, did you have issues with the knock sensor before the CPS went bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefarmboy21 Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 Yes, I actually changed both battery cables because I wasn't getting a connection. So the battery was out if the car for three weeks. I also was having knock sensor problems before the crank sensor broke. The crank sensor was fine until I was changing the alternator an decided to clean the crank sensor (because it was dying at stops all the time) so I just figured since it was right there it'd be easy and no problems. That was before I knew they were common to break in subarus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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