lewisd Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 (edited) Need to replace front wheel bearing, again. 99 legacy brighton wagon. Any recommendation on brand? probably will buy locally. can't wait for shipping. Edited February 2, 2014 by lewisd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Factory bearing with grease already in place has been my choice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisd Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 thanks but just bought parts this afternoon. Stealership wanted $150 for bearing and $200 for hub. I passed. Don't plan on holding onto this car longer than a year. getting to much to do and need reliable travel vehicle. keeping an eye on nice used outbacks or tribeca with h6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Brand will be determined by where you shop. A lot of the same manufactured parts go into different boxed depending on their outlet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 I paid $75 for a used hub w/bearings from a wrecking yard about a year ago. So far, so good with used hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Whole used knuckle is the easy way to go. If you only need it to last a year just get the cheap bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 thanks but just bought parts this afternoon. Stealership wanted $150 for bearing and $200 for hub. I passed. Don't plan on holding onto this car longer than a year. getting to much to do and need reliable travel vehicle. keeping an eye on nice used outbacks or tribeca with h6 Wow, my parts were not nearly that much from the dealer. I wouldn't pay that much either! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisd Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 thanks fellas. Subaru parts are hard to come by around here at auto salvages. I got timken bearing and other parts to go with it. having heck of time with tie rod end out of knuckle now. local grage will press all together for $40-50. I've been saying one more year for the past 4 years at least now. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 whack the knuckle sharply with a hammer to shock out the tie rod. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 What Miles said. Soaking the seat area in a good pentrating oil should help as well as a last resort, thread the castle nut back on the stud until the top of the nut is flush with the top of the stud and whack with a hammer to unseat....if you are changing the tie-rod end, it isnt a big deal, but if you plan to re-use only do this if all else fails to avoid damaging the threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upnorthguy Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 The $20 ball joint separator I picked up at Harbor Freight has been one of my better buys. That thing pops out tie rod ends with ease (along with separating ball joints from knuckles). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 2 votes for the horrid-freight ball-joint and tie-rod tool. It can apply an impressive amount of force! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 i wouldn't strike the tie rod nut - the ones that are really tight will ruin the threads every time. and the threads are really difficult to chase with a tap/die set as the stud just turns in the joint and there's no way to hold it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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