Paine Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Okay so I swear I searched and tried to find this info on my own and I've learned alot about lifting legacies in the process but I just put the legacy out to pasture. So I want to lift my 99 OBS. Cheap and easy (can't find my spring compressors at the moment) preferable, so it seems like spacer blocks or a longer strut complete with spring from a junkyard are the two choices. There is a very cheap pull your own part junkyard near me and I just got a new grinder that I'm dying to use so cutting out strut assemblies gets my vote. Also will be a daily driver so I would like to avoid changing CV axles every month- I'm thinking 1-2". Questions: -What would I be looking for at the junkyard-forester? -Long shot- Is there a beefier/longer CV axle that fits right into my car- forester again? -I know if I make spacers they should be offset a few degrees...I read somewhere that someone was talking about bending steel with an oxy torch-why couldn't I just cut it at an angle? -Is my precious little 2.2l engine going to be able to power tires a couples inches larger than stock without complaint? How about my automatic (bummer, I know) transmission? Thanks for the help. Even if it's a link to the thread that has all the answers to these questions that I should have already found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Forester Struts assy, you may have to change the top mount over on the back struts so the studs are the same as your car. Front's bolt right in, set the camber all the way in. It's usually pretty close. Rear's you need the trailing arm mount plate from the forester (it's about a 1/2" longer) and I usually use a trailing arm to knuckle bolt (smaller dia) for the top strut mount bolt. You can use the Forester Springs as well. About 2" of bolt on lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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