Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

NOISE - CV or wheel bearing?


Recommended Posts

So I've had this noise for about 6 months now and thought it was my left-front cv axle because it had a torn boot.  I assumed it was just slowly killing itself and I'd change it when I couldn't take the noise any longer.  Last night I changed the axle and the noise is still there.

 

DESCRIPTION OF NOISE::  Loudest when turning left AND right.  It sounds like a really worn tire that has been chewed up from a bad alignment when turning.  It's relative to speed and can feel it a little bit in the steering wheel. 

 

HISTORY: I changed the right-front axle about a year ago with an Advance Auto NEW axle (not rebuilt). 

 

I can't tell if it's on the left or right side.

 

Could it be that other axle making the 'whirring-grinding' noise?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also consider that aftermarket axles (NEW or rebuilt) are viewed as potentially problematic in my reading on USMB site.

It is possible that the one you replaced a year ago was going bad.

Consensus is to always rebuild the Subaru axles if you can as they are more reliable than aftermarkets, so save you old one and reboot it anyway.

There is also one or two aftermarket manufacturers that get the thumbs up but NOT Advanced Auto, PepBoys or Autozone or the other chains. I can't recall the manufacturer. Perhaps someone else will chime in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Axles don't generally make grumbling noises like a bearing will.

Unfortunately with Subaru bearings its very hard to tell exactly which bearing is bad until its completely toast. Often they make noise for thousands of miles with no other signs and no play.

 

Changing an axle is the best time to check the wheel bearings because you can easily spin the hubs while the axle is out, and feel/listen for roughness.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll see if I can check it out today and will be back.  I may not have a chance to take care of it till this weekend.  I don't have a press so I guess I would need to take the hub to a shop, right?  How much is average charge for something like that?

 

Any issues that might come up; like if the bearing has seized to hub?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you guys, lmdew, I've got a 3lb hammer so I'm gonna give it a shot. I'll put the strut bolts back in and try that.  I'm learning new stuff here and I've replace engines and trans just not done suspension parts.  I've already f'ed up the tie rod and replaced it, now the ball joint needs to come out. 

 

Once I get it out of the knuckle, how do I get it out of the control arm?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Definitely get the lower stud popped out of the control arm before removing the strut bolts. Much easier that way than pulling the housing out of the knuckle.

 

Loosen and remove the lower nut, then hammer down on the control arm right by the stud with a big hammer. Give the sides a good smack as well and that will help break it loose from the control arm.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great news!  After a few hours of work, I have replaced the drivers side axle, tie rod end, ball joint, had the wheel bearing pressed out and new one in, and now on my way to get it aligned.  Thank you all for your help and tips!  The socket tip worked like a charm to get ball joint out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...