Can my 93 Loyale EA82 have died?

[myhilo]

Encouraging News,  Today I pulled the oil pan looking for more metal in
the pan. ( I had pulled one shard out of through the drain plug and
feared severe damage.  Doesn't look like any significant metal debris in
the bottom of the oil pan. (I did find some metal which stuck to a
magnet, was the texture of the metal filings used in classrooms to
demonstrate magnet lines of force.  I'm attributing them to normal wear
after 76K mi.  So I am going to next verify the #1 cylinder is not
leaking from the intake valve.  The mechanic I took the car to ran a
compression ( leak down ) test.  We could hear air coming out of the
intake when the piston was at Top Dead Center (hopefully on the
compression stroke).  I as assuming the test needs to be repeated and
this time pull the valve cover and assure both valves are fully closed. 
Once I confirm the #1 cylinder does seal, I will assume the prior test
at the mechanics was caused by incorrect cam position and the cams will
be reset correctly by the timing belt installation procedure which is
covered here on this board in a number of places.  Next news won't take
months......

[myhilo]

Pulled and cleaned oil pan, no metal. 

 

Removed and sawed open oil filter, cut apart and spread
filter accordion like paper, no metal. Did compression check cyl 1 70#,
2,3,4,~120# squirted oil in cyl 1, no better, still 70#, put compressed air into cyl 1.  Heard air coming out of fuel injection horn.  Pulled Rt. Side valve cover, rotated cam to be sure cam was not engaging, again put compressed air into cyl 1.  Heard air coming out of fuel injection horn.  Assume cyl 1 intake valve leaking some, but overall engine should still has some life left in it,
no worse than before the timing belt broke. The mo-in-law doesn’t put more than a few K miles a year, never take it on freeway, only around town.  I would like to change the water pump and reseal the cams and oil pump but think I’ll just put back together and drive a while to make sure this engine is still worth doing valves and a reseal.

 

Looked at Ebay for timing belt kits, various prices and questionable sources. Finally went to Gates site, looked up ’93 Sub, Loyale,
1.8  found kit with Gates part no. TCK299 had both belts, both tension pulleys with new bearings and new idler pulley.  Called around local Autoparts stores wanted about $200 1 day wait.  Found on Amazon for $108 w/ free shipping.  Ordered took
about 4 days???

 

Installed fine but the inner belt was very tight, had to lever it on with a stout, short screw driver (ouch!).

 

The references here helped a lot.  Outer belt went on by hand.  Timing marks all looked good and still looked good after a few rotations of the crank. Started right up.  Still some valve lifter? noise.  Seems to run fine, just as before, took into city at 70 mph all goes well.

 

Now I need to repair A/C, I think it's seized, but not sure how to confirm it, also where/ How to get a replacement when this car is so old.

 

 

[l75eya]

Jump the wire going to the compressor to the battery. You'll hear a click. If you don't hear a click the relay is not working. If you do hear a click it is engaged. While it's engaged, try to spin it. There will be resistance (less so if you take off the lines, but if it has a charge, you'll lose the charge and break some laws while you're at it) If it spins you're good. If it won't spin it's seized obviously.

Make sure the belt is real good and tight. When I got my AC hooked back up I thought my compressor was seized because it wasn't spinning and the belt was sliding on it, but the tension that was good enough without the compressor on wasn't good enough with it on. Tightened the belt. AC worked. =) Good luck
 

And nice job keeping it going! And thanks for supplying parts #'s for future reference for anybody trying to find a good timing belt kit!

[MR_Loyale]

Awesome job.

[rrgrr]

I think now you are the mechanic, and you can stop taking it to the the guy who said it was toast!

[myhilo]

So I've been driving it all over since I put the new timing belt kit on and all seems fine.  So I am going to get the A/C going and replace the water pump since it's right there when I removed the A/C compressor.

 

What's the best source for a rebuilt A/C compressor?  Can anyone tell me what make of compressor this is?  and other attached photos.

 

I believe the Water Pump should be a new one from Subaru, any thoughts....

Also note the hard pipe coming out of the water pump in the "Top Unmounted" photo.  The only time I dealt with a 'hard pipe' on a water pump was with a old Caddy.  Any removal/installation tips would be appreciated.

 

'93 Loyale 1.8 EA82 Auto Vin JF1AC4226PC200963

 

 

 

[MR_Loyale]

Before you replace the compressor, did you do the test as 175Eya mentioned above? I would hate to see you throw a compressor at it only to have wasted your money. Also, a Haynes manual is great for getting the A/C going again. I also have a 93 Loyale (FWD, 5MT) and I got my AC going after 6 years where the "professional" shop fix had failed.

 

Haynes also has a great section on troubleshooting the AC. Best $15 you will spend.  Oh and I think the compressor (at least mine) is made by Hitachi. Again, Haynes also covers the different types you may have.

 

[robm]

RE: the hard pipe.  It is sealed with an O-ring.  Use a new O-ring when you replace the pump.  I am not sure if the pump will come with it or not.

 

The new O-ring is often a good idea if you disturb that system in any way, like replace the rad hose or radiator.

[myhilo]

Yes I did put voltage to the A/C compressor clutch and in clicked loudly and and grabbed.  The pulley/clutch assembly would rotate about 1/3 turn and stop completely as if it hit a hard part.  I tried rotating in both directions, to the same hard stop. The compressor will not rotate.  Also there was green leak check dye on the lower seams of the compressor. 

 

How will I check if debris and garbage from the compressor has gone into the system?  I'll note the ends of the hoses, when I get the new compressor and go to change over.  I'm not going to open the system until I'm ready to replace.  I am also considering replacing the dryer again, but the last dryer I put on had one of the hose connections oriented different from the original and I had to bend the hose/pipe to fit, and of course I put a kink into it.  So I'm not sure I want to bend that hose/pipe again, not sure it will take it.

 

Regarding the Water pump pipe, thanks for the O-ring info but I also need to know is the pipe just pressed into the water pump housing or is it held by an clip, clamp, or some other device.  Should I just pull it out?  I am thinking it may be obvious when I look at the new water pump, but any advice before I start will be helpful.

 

I love working on this car, things just seem to come apart and go back together as a SUBARU!! :)

[colemanapp]

that water pump pipe somewhat twists in/out as I recall. Might be more detailed pic in manual but mines not nearby

[rain_man_rich]

I'd make sure to let your mechanic know what you did and how it turned out.

[l75eya]

I'm not sure if you would be able to turn it by hand while it's engaged. If there's no charge, disconnect the lines and then try to turn it. You could also try just jumping it while the car is running to see if it turns. Make sure the belt is tight.

[l75eya]

Oh and the pipe has an o ring. It isn't attached to the water pump, it's bolted a little bit towards the drivers side by the ac/alternator mount. Once you remove the radiator hose and take that bolt out, the pipe just pulls out of the water pump. Id suggest fitting a new o-ring to that pipe. I brought the old one with me to advanced auto and they matched it up.