The Dude Abides Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 (edited) So im elbows deep into my wheel bearing replacement and its been smooth sailing until now. I cant get the cv shaft off of the trailing arm. I cant figure out what im doing wrong. The roll pin has been removed, there are no bolts i can see. Infact the trailing arm is hanging off the car. There is alittle play i can see where it will slide alittle back and forth. Am i missing anything, there has got to be a a lock ring or a bolt or a pin i missed but the trailing arm is hanging off the car, there should be nothing holding this back anymore. Any advice would be great. Edited February 22, 2014 by The Dude Abides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruparts Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 (edited) hi, the roll pin is all that is involved to keep the joint on the shaft,,,, except the rust, and that can be a nightmare. i have actually removed the shaft from the hub with the axle still on it, you might want to take the inner pin out and slip the inner cv off the diff stub but at least it can be done. i have a couple of them lying about in this condition , just gave up after pounding on them numerous times soaking and pounding, still stuck... heat with a tourch maybe help but that much heat would probably melt the joint boot. from your pics you are doing what you can, i think remove the inner pin and cv joint from the diff and then at least you can work with it on the bench. if you get this off use anti-seize on the splines going back. pretty sure you can leave it attached and the shaft will press ( or knock) through the hub bearings to the inner side and then you can do the bearing and seal, then put the shaft back in, leaving the axle attached all the while. Edited February 22, 2014 by ruparts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capn_r Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 I've pulled the axle with the outer stub attached (like ruparts said) and I ground the points on a large ball joint separator tool (pickle fork) a little thinner and more pointed and drove the tool in the split where the cv axle female end and the shoulder on the outer stub join and got them to separate. Then polish up the stub, anti-seize and reassemble. Or just leave the two attached and put it back in after you replace the bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 Maybe its the frustration but i have no idea what you guys are saying. The axel that should slide out of the hub isnt. It doesnt feel like rust it feels like something is holding it back or blocking it. Im pretty fed up, i couldnt even remove the dam cv shaft from the rear pumpkin. Took me 20 minutes to pount out the pin and i couldnt get that to separate from the rear diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruparts Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 (edited) hi, i feel your pain, been there, but the spline shaft that is through the hub and bearings is a fairly tight fit, but it can and does come out. the axle & cv joints are a different issue all together, having the axle out of the way would have helped but you apparently have one of those "special' ones we encounter ocassionally. you can actually do the bearing with the axle still attached to the diff and to the hub shaft,, but you DO have to get the shaft out of the hub. you might be able to borrow / or rent a 3jaw type puller and push it through, it comes out of the inner side of that trailing arm/ hub,, its tight and it has to be , its like a press fit similar to the fronr axle in its hub. i don't think you will be able to hammer on the arm because all the force will be trying to break your cv joints. if you do get the cv & axle shaft off of the rear diff, then you have the option of hammering on the outer end of the shaft while holding the arm/hub steady. if you have a friend who can hold the arm/hub assy and pull while you hammer the outer end it might come free. but i think a puller, 2 or 3 jaw whichever you can get to clamp on the hub and press the shaft through is the best approach. the rust i refered to is what's holding the cv from coming off the spline shaft, that is a separate problem from getting the shaft out of the hub, the axle is just mostly in the way and making it difficult to have good access to the hub. if you had that off you could stand the hub on end and drive the shaft out with a big hammer. Edited February 22, 2014 by ruparts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruparts Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 (edited) hi, i wanted to post a pic for you , this is what the shaft looks like so you can see it. no c clip or retainer, just a press fit in the inner bearing races. Edited February 22, 2014 by ruparts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 (edited) Woah, i didnt know that come appart. Should i put the pin back in because i didnt want to take it apart like that. The write up i read didnt have that stub being separated from the cv shaft the hub was pulled through the stub shaft and the pin was never removed. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/107722-pictorial-wheel-bearing-guide-4wd-rear/ Edited February 22, 2014 by The Dude Abides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 You'll be surprised how rust can hold the CV end cups onto the stub shafts! Very painful situation to be in All the best with it. CheersBennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 (edited) I dont want to be rude but please everyone check out the link i put in the above post and see where the stub shaft goes out of the cup. And i understand that was one mans prespective on removing it but i dont see how taking off the stub shaft is going to make this any easier. Edited February 22, 2014 by The Dude Abides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruparts Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 hi, if you go back and read the posts myself and another guy made,, we said, you can get the stub out of the hub with the axle still attached.. we are only saying that since you are having a difficult time getting it out that having the axle disconnected would be a benefit since you could work with it on a bench or work table. the stub axle will press out of the bearings just like in that link you posted, his apparently just slipped out yours must be pretty tight. but it is the same as that link you last posted. the pin is all that holds that axle to the stub,, except the rust as mentioned, you can leave it attached or try and get it off ,, whatever, but the point is there is not any retainer or clip or anythingholding the stub in,,, it's just a tight fit in the bearings. that guy did a great job on that step by step picture post, it is very complete and is 100% correct,, the only difference is your stub didn't just slip out like his did, you are needing more force to make that happen,, how you apply that force is what i've been refering to. #1 aheavy hammer, but someone needs to hold the suspension arm or it won't do anything maybe ruin your cv's,, #2 use a puller to press it through. the part about taking the cv and axle off is just to have better access to the suspension arm/hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverhelme Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 It really does not matter whether you disconnect the stub or not, The mistake you made was not driving the axle back before you unbolted the rest of the parts. See picture 5 and the caption above it in the link you posted to see what I mean. At this point you either have to partially bolt it back up to drive the axle back or disconnect the inside of the axle and try to drive it out on the bench or with a press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 Thank you all for your help. I am frustrated which i believe you are getting, but im a nice guy normally this has just gotten the worst of me. Im getting a 3jaw puller this afternoon to give it a try. I suppose a bearing could of let go and wedged itself inside the stub somehow. Either way im trying the puller and going from there. I did try to losen up the cv shaft before taking the arm off but it didnt work so i thought maybe i could give it alittle more mite after i got it off the arm. But the axle isnt coming off and neither is the stub shaft so lol i need to keep figureing it out. Worst case senerio i put it back together and take the whole dam car to the shop. I am going to try the 3 jaw puller and then probably a pickel fork before i put it back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 On a side note, the cv stub isnt stuck in the hub. It moves a quarter of an inch in and out. It is hitting something preventing it from moving. That is why iasked if there was another clip or bolt i was missing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruparts Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 (edited) hi, here is a couple of pics of what i was thinking, just to give an idea of the principal. there are 2jaw pullers as well, might be easier to get hooked up, and i still think if you have someone hold the suspension arm and pull outward while you use a "heavy" hammer on the end of that stub and it should slip out. caution, do not bend the flange where the backing plate bolts on, too much force with a puller could do that so watch it. Edited February 22, 2014 by ruparts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 On a side note, the cv stub isnt stuck in the hub. It moves a quarter of an inch in and out. It is hitting something preventing it from moving. That is why iasked if there was another clip or bolt i was missing. Just hammer it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 If it were only that easy my friend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 On a side note ruparts do you have extra 13inch wagon wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruparts Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 On a side note ruparts do you have extra 13inch wagon wheels. hi, yes the ea81 version, no ea82 type. they need repainted but that is not unusual. pm me , how many, what you have in mind, i also have several styles of alloy wheels also. all 13", thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted February 23, 2014 Author Share Posted February 23, 2014 Yea i need the ea82s, the ea81s wont clear my calipers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 If it were only that easy my friend. It is. Bolt the control arm back up to the body. Hammer it out. Remove the lockring once it's out, and use the butt of the 36mm socket to hammer out the outer race. Now.....reinstall is harder if you can't seperate the stub from the axle....but if you can then this is the next step. Take the new bearing, packed with grease....and hammer the stub though the whole thing......both halves and the outer race.....so you've got a whole bearing unit with the stub though it. Now use the old outer race as a driver and install the whole shebang into the arm. Install the lockring behind it. The reason for doing it this way is so the "pressing" or "hammer" action doesn't happen against the outer races and rollers.....but against the inner spacer collars. If you install the outer race, then slip in the bearings and pull the stub through it loads up the rollers on the inward side of the bearing pretty hard. I never need to use a press and I never remove the arm from the K-bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted February 23, 2014 Author Share Posted February 23, 2014 Warning, must play this while looking at pictures. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 Ok so now i ask the group, is there a way for me to get this back on. Any special tools because it wont slide back on now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 Ok so after alittle looking i realized i destroyed the inner seal. Question, does the inner seal need to be put on after i screw the nut or can i do it before hand. And does the outer seal need to be flush with the outer bearing because it moves around alot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky26 Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Warning, must play this while looking at pictures. Nice shirt!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Ok so after alittle looking i realized i destroyed the inner seal. Question, does the inner seal need to be put on after i screw the nut or can i do it before hand. And does the outer seal need to be flush with the outer bearing because it moves around alot. Inner seal can go in anytime. In this case you will need to put it on before pulling the stub through. Outer seal should sit flush. As for pulling axle stub through.....that would ussually be done with the axle removed from the stub.......hmmm.........maybe an axle nut with a hook for a slide hammer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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