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The last sentence reads: "Indeed, one is forced to wonder whether an engine with a high-quality PAO synthetic combined with a bypass filtration system and regular filter changes would ever need its oil changed at all."

 

And this is what is done in truck fleets, very infrequent oil change (up to 100,000 miles). However, one has to completely filter the impurities out, something that is not done in cars.

 

The study is interesting but clearly limited by the high oil consumption in the study car. Notice that the average age of oil at 18000 is only 10000 and only 31% of oil is the original oil placed 18000 miled ago.

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Hmm, I believe my 6k intervals for oil and filter are working well. 8k would be the absolute maximum.

 

Having read the study: Consider that VW/Audi leaves oil changes up to 30k miles! WITHOUT filter changes along the way.

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Even conventional oils never truly wear out. It's contamination that destroys the oil. The steam turbines where I work run around the clock year round, and are on the same oil after twenty years. The problem with an internal combustion engine, is that burning fuel creates many chemical residues which largely go out the exhaust, but some of the stuff by necessity goes into the oil. I believe it's mostly acids from combustion dissolved in the oil that cause the problems. Since it isn't particulate and can't be filtered out, It requires an oil change to remove it.

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Nomad, you've but scratched the surface. There's a fair amount more deterioration going on. I 'spose it depends on whether the argument centers on the only base stock itself, or the entire motor oil as a package.

 

The VI improvers are that universally present in multigrade dino lubes become permanently sheared with use. That could qualify as "worn out". Also the tendency of these polymers to coke up into the top ring groove (especially on new piston designs with the rings pushed right to the top) is offset by the detergency and solvency of the brew which unfortunately gives up the ghost with mileage.

 

Oxidation and nitration will chemically change the brew and cause it to thicken.

 

Linear additive depletion is a given.

 

So while the base stock never wears out, the motor oil as a package, does. Semantics? :banghead:

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Just for the record, my '97 OB with 125,000 didn't leak a drop with Mobil 1 5w-30. I do get piston slap so I'm thinking about trying different oils ( likely in vain) but I have been a Mobil 1 man for most of the cars life- I bought used at 62K. I have been getting into oil specs more and am liking the Amsoil brand a lot, I may switch over. Also the Pennzoil High Mileage dino oil has a good viscosity rating when warm, but since my piston slap comes when cold, I'm not sure how that rating would help. Amsoil seems to be by most accounts thicker but still flows well cold. I also like the Pure One filter.

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Just for the record, my '97 OB with 125,000 didn't leak a drop with Mobil 1 5w-30. I do get piston slap so I'm thinking about trying different oils ( likely in vain) but I have been a Mobil 1 man for most of the cars life- I bought used at 62K. I have been getting into oil specs more and am liking the Amsoil brand a lot, I may switch over. Also the Pennzoil High Mileage dino oil has a good viscosity rating when warm, but since my piston slap comes when cold, I'm not sure how that rating would help. Amsoil seems to be by most accounts thicker but still flows well cold. I also like the Pure One filter.

 

It'll likely still slap with Mobil1 10w30 (mine does). I'm going to try Mobil1 15w50 once it warms up a bit outside. Anyone try this vis.?

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