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Carbon Build-up SeaFoam Product Question?


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I wanted to know if anyone used the Sea-foam product http://www.seafoamsales.com/products.htm to clean carbon build-up from their engine?

 

Also, it states that if you have a "Port" injected vehicle,to slowly pour it into the vacume line (Ie; brake booster, pvc valve, manafold vacume) to clean the carbon build-up. My 1993 Legacy has MPFI (Multi Point fuel Injection), would this apply to my car? Should I try and pour it into the vacume line going to the manafold? If so, does anyone know which vacume lines to use on this car?

 

Thanks..

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Yes, your engine is port-injected. No, I can't tell you which vacuum line to use - but others here can!

 

I use Redex to clean up my engine, and this is the only product I have tried that actually makes a noticeable difference. Never tried seafoam, though,

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if i recall correctly there was a discussion a long time ago about cleaning the engine out using just a jar of good ole water. gives comparable results as other more expensive methods. kind of a steam cleaning on the innards....

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Yeah, the water method works good to sort of "heat-shock" the carbon off the piston face. The solvent method does a bit more by way of dissolving deposits from the intake ports and intake valves as well.

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I attempted this thru the PCV valve about a year ago. I kept the tube attached to the pcv valve, and pulled it off the other end, and turned it upright. Then I poured Seafoam on. It filled up the tube really fast. I watchd it, and it didn't seem to be going down. At that time my PCV Valve was about 2K miles old. So I said Oh ShEEt, and I rotated the tube back and drove around, and by the time I stopped about 30 minutes later the tube was empty, and I then pulled that off and the PCV valve looked normal. I did not see too many spills that may have indicated that when I turned the tube back around it all leaked out, out back thru the vacuum line. But I think it ended up going thru the upper internals of the engine after RPM's went up, as well as vacuum.

But a year later, the Impreza still runs good with 215,000 miles!

 

Max

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yeah I've used seafoam....great stuff! I've used it in the gas tank, in the injection system, and oil.

 

The two I'd definitely recommend are the gas and injection system. When I did my injection system I just poured a little down the tube of the pcv at a time, and then followed the instructions.....turned the car off, let it sit for 10 min or so....then started it back up.

 

The water injection method also does work.....I've used both.

 

I'd suggest the pcv valve because it's centrally located on the intake manifold so whatever you put down will get to all cylinders.

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Sea Foam is good stuff for aggressive cleaning but it could dislodge large pieces of funk in a really dirty, neglected engine. A chunk of dislodged carbon between a piston ring and a cylinder wall is as bad as taking a piece of sandpapaer to the inside of an engine.

 

Over the years, I've become hooked on Marvel Mystery Oil for gentle cleaning. This stuff has been around since the 1920's. A few "glugs" (ounces) in the gas tank at fill ups keeps things unbelievably clean. It's safe on O2 sensors, and you can get a quart at Walmart for around $3. Cleans and lubes fuel injectors, valve guides and valve seats.

Marvel Mystery Oil is NOT just repackaged ATF as some people believe. It contains proven ingredents like Naphtha, wintergreen oil, solvents, and light oil for upper cylinder lubrication. About 4 oz per 10 gallons of gas raises the octane rating because it slows the burn rate of the gas down. I also use it in my lawn equipment as a gasoline stabilizer; keeps carburetors form gumming up over the winter.

I'm sold on the stuff.

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I just used it for the first time last week. I poured it in the gas tank and the crankcase. Already I have noticed a marked improvement in pickup, throttle response and smoother acceleration. I'm going to pour some through the pcv valve too next week.

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Over the years, I've become hooked on Marvel Mystery Oil for gentle cleaning. This stuff has been around since the 1920's. A few "glugs" (ounces) in the gas tank at fill ups keeps things unbelievably clean. It's safe on O2 sensors, and you can get a quart at Walmart for around $3. Cleans and lubes fuel injectors, valve guides and valve seats.

Marvel Mystery Oil is NOT just repackaged ATF as some people believe. It contains proven ingredents like Naphtha, wintergreen oil, solvents, and light oil for upper cylinder lubrication. About 4 oz per 10 gallons of gas raises the octane rating because it slows the burn rate of the gas down. I also use it in my lawn equipment as a gasoline stabilizer; keeps carburetors form gumming up over the winter.

I'm sold on the stuff.

I liked this stuff to it worked great for all the cars i put it in, except in the legacy, it started to smoke, and was almost imposibleto start. That was the last time i used since we only own subes now. I may try it agian if you havent had any problems with it.

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I've used both products, Seafoam and MMO, on my 96 OBW. I simply love the Seafoam, and use it regularly on the Subaru and all our small engine equipment for the yard - great stuff. The MMO didn't do well in the Subaru, as it made it run rough. I have a friend who has owns his own Cesna airplane, and he and his mechanic use MMO in their aircraft engines and swear by MMO.

 

I guess Subaru engines, for whatever reason don't like the MMO.

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I liked this stuff to it worked great for all the cars i put it in, except in the legacy, it started to smoke, and was almost imposibleto start. That was the last time i used since we only own subes now. I may try it agian if you havent had any problems with it.

 

MMO works great for me in the '02 OBW. It kind of keeps things clean to the point that I never need to do an aggressive cleaning with Sea Foam. I only add it to the gas tank, though. You're only supposed to add around 4 oz. per 10 gallons of fuel.

Were you using it in the gas tank or in the engine oil? And how much?

Just curious.

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I think the bottle says approx 1.5oz per quart of oil so I put 6 oz in the crankcase (2.2 uses 4.2quarts) when I changed the oil...I wondered if I should reduce the amount of oil by 6 oz but figured it was so little it wouldn't matter. Then I poured the rest in the gas tank when I filled up. It was less than suggested but I wasn't gonna buy another bottle for the miniscule difference.

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I purchased the SeaFoam and poured it through the PVC. I followed the instructions, make sure the car is warmed up and pout it in SLOWLY. Then, you let it sit for about 5 mins. I filled up the pvc hose after the car was turned off. This way, it drained into the engine. After the 5 mins was up, I started the car and drove it. It looks like a huge smoke cloud from the back (was kind of cool). This is normal. When it finally burned off, everything was back to normal. Iam going to do it one more time, then pour the recommended amount in the gas tank and oil. I have a feeling that is is going to work really well. I will keep everyone informed..

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  • 9 years later...

Most of the time I hear people complain about sea foam it's for one of two reasons: They add it WAY too fast and lock the engine, or don't have enough buildup for it to be worthwhile. 

 

I'm a fan of using the vac line off the brake booster to add sea foam. Done this on 5 or 6 different brands of vehicles. It's large, easy to get to, and has a pretty consistent/strong vacuum at idle. Plus there's room to work. I usually add it to the vac first. Just tilt the can to about an 80* angle and hold the brake line up to it- that'll be enough suction to pull it out of the can without having to pour it in.

 

I wonder if the IAT port on a subbie air box would be enough to add it- if you help the throttle plate open slightly by hand...

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I hae used the brake boost line and other vac lines, depending on engine. You want to add it liberally, holding the idle up to not stall the engine, and then once enough had been administered, let the engine choke out and stall.

 

Save a little to fill up i the IACV hose and the PCV hose to let it soak.

 

The product works best when the engine is all the way warmed up, and can sit and soak for at least 15 minutes to 30 minutes. Adding it too fast, not having the engine warm, or running it too soon just blows it out the tail pipe.

 

Deep Creep is the same product in an aerosol can. It comes with a straw that you can tuck into the intake boot right at the throttle body for even distribution.

 

One you have treated the engine and it sits for at least 15 minutes, run the holy bejeezus out of it to blow out the carbon, and run it til the smoke clears up. 

 

Use about 1/2 to 2/3rds the can for the engine, and dump the rest in the oil, and change the oil soon. Best applied just before a planned oil change.

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