aggravation

[that one kid]

I've been having a lot of trouble with the ignition/ key barrel on my 86 brat usually it is just really touchy and picky about the position of the key and if i get it wrong i spend 10minutes to half an hour fiddling with it to get unlocked. last week i almost go stranded because the barrel would just not unlock and i had to hold the steering wheel left to take pressure off the barrel and crank the key hard to the point where it almost broke in the ignition to get it unlocked...........thankfully i got it home but now its locked completely.

 

I need a solution

should I get a locksmith to come down and see what they can do or remove the barrel and just bring it to one to see if they can fix or rework it ?

Would it be better to go to a scrap yard and find a new barrel and key and reinstall it myself?

How hard is it to remove the lock barrel and how would i do so?

 

any help would be great thanks

 

 oh and i guess if its not hard to install a "new" one is there anybody one here (preferably in the area) that would be willing to give me one or sell?

[TOONGA]

The hardest part of the installation is the undoing of the snap bolts that the complete ignition surround is installed with.

 

the other way to do it is to release the barrel from the surround via the locking tabs.

 

I found it easier to replace the whole lot. I used a centre punch to loosen the snap bolts, or you can drill the heads off then use locking pliers to undo the bolt shaft.

 

I took the steering column out of the junk yard car it was way easier.

 

TOONGA

[ruparts]

hi,

 you should buy a new complete lock assembly, the inner barrel with the key is worn, and the inside of the assembly it turns in is also worn , you may find a used one that works but it will be temporary.  it is held in place by 4 bolts on the downward side of the tilt section of your column,  they are kind of difficult but can be done.  you have to remove the steering wheel, the plastic covers, the turn switch and it slides up over the steering shaft and off, there are bearings inside it to center the steering shaft so "make mental note"  how it all goes.  the electrical part switch is attached with 2 tiny screws it is easy to take off and put on, but will not do anything for your key problem.

 if your steering column is in the locked position, you have a big extra problem because it will not allow the ignition lock assembly to slide off, even after you get the bolts out.  if this is your situation i kindly submit that you need a dremmel tool with a cutting wheel and carefully cut the lock housing apart until you can get the column release to let go,, a real pain but these are some of the most difficult locks i've ever seen.  IF you can get the key to turn on once again, it will release the column lock and you can avoid the major headache,, be sure to leave it on,  and disconnect the battery for the remainder of the project.

 

  Toonga:   i think you are thinking of the type lock that has the headless bolts and is 2-piece housing,, this is not like that. the US 86 brat has a tilt wheel style column and the lock assembly is 1-piece and has to slide up and off the steering shaft.

[that one kid]

Thanks for the info guys really helps a lot. It doesn't feel as if the assembly is worn though i could be wrong.. but it feels like a misalignment more than anything once the car is unlocked it clicks through the ACC, ON, START positions just fine it appears to me that its just the inner locking mechanisms that is worn or misaligned (if that is possible). Would the assembly still need to be replaced? or might it just be the inner lock barrel thats the problem?

 

Thankfully i reckon i might get lucky and fiddle with it until it comes unlocked again so there shouldn't be any need to cut the lock housing apart. 

 

If and when i get the column to unlock does the key have to be in a specific position to slide off, I'm assuming i don't have to have it in the start position which would leave the ON and ACC

 

thanks again

[ruparts]

hi,

 the inner tumbler barrel mounts inside the housing where it turns and wears both itself,  and the housing too. 

 NO need  to have the ign key in any particular pisition to work on it or remove the assembly,,  just not in "off position",   but you DO HAVE TO  get the column locking mechanism to release first, or the lock housing cannot be removed,  once the column lock is unlocked,  then the ign lock housing  can be removed from the column.   if you turn the key back  off it can relock the column,  so do not.   my advice is to unplug the electrical portion , it has a plug connector about 10 inches from the switch,, you would have to anyway to remove it,,  i also advise to disconnect the battery as a safety measure just in case.   once you get the covers off it will be easier to visualize what is to be done,, the 4 bolts (10mm head) are difficult ,  you can disconnect the spring cables to allow better access, and tilt up or down to help,, the steering wheel has to come off, and the turn signal / hazzard switch also,  it has 2 little screws in the bottom which hold it to the bottom half of the cover.  take all the covers / switches off first,,  then get the column unlocked , then the wheel,  then the bolts. 

 after those are off the lock housing can slide up and off the column shaft.

[that one kid]

I managed to get the column to unlocked today. Once the steering wheel cover is removed theres a bolt holding the steering wheel to the column i know that i need to have the steering wheel in the same position for reinstallment but my haynes manual suggests a specific torque for the bolt. how important is it that the bolt is the right tightness or does it just need to be tight enough to hold the wheel in the right position?

[ruparts]

I managed to get the column to unlocked today. Once the steering wheel cover is removed theres a bolt holding the steering wheel to the column i know that i need to have the steering wheel in the same position for reinstallment but my haynes manual suggests a specific torque for the bolt. how important is it that the bolt is the right tightness or does it just need to be tight enough to hold the wheel in the right position?

 

 hi,

  use a magic marker and put a line on  the column shaft and onto the inside of the wheel flange ( under where the nut is)   after you take the nut off,   then you can see to put it back in the same place it is,  the shaft  has splines on it and the wheel also, so it can't slip,  and you can tell by the mark you make which spline matches up.    i use a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket, and tighten to pretty tight,  not all i can do,  just good and tight,  never had a problem.    the ea81 wheels will just slip off the shaft, the ea82 cars you have to use a puller to get them off.

Edited March 1, 2014 by ruparts

[that one kid]

sweet i guess then that'll be my little project for tomorrow. do you know any good sights where i can get a lock assembly? I've been looking around and mostly all of the internet auto parts stores either don't carry it or the parts out of stock the only place i've managed to find one is on ebay and its like 50 bucks more.. just curious if you knew a sight thanks again for the info you probably just saved me quite a bit of time and money (smiley face)

[ruparts]

hi,

  i don't know where to send you for the part,  if i had to do this i'd buy a new one from the dealer,, yeah it costs a lot but it's  new, and no more trouble.  i went on ebay and looked for that,  i did see 1 new factory assembly from a place called  svauto  , it has a pic if the switch,  but close inspection of the pic,, i see no bearings in the big bore, there are bearings in there, i see no key, the ad does not mention a key,  so i'm not sure if that is a complete assembly& key,  or if the bearings are included,  but not shown,  or what.   you might send them a question and ask if the bearings and key are included,, it's 65 dollars cheaper than the online dealers.  likely no warranty from the ebay guy.

  these switch  assembly has 2 sets of bearings, an upper small one,  and a lower large one, they are caged roller type.  the big hole in that ebay switch is where the big one goes.  

 anyway #783121210   for tilt and 4wd is what my 84 parts book shows , it also has that ebay  783121260 number, but my book says that is  for tilt except 4wd, not sure what is up with that,  pretty sure that either can work.   i looked up both online,  the 260 number is 15-20 bucks cheaper than the 210 number  on the online subaru places.   but from them the 783121210 is  around 165-185 dollars.  

  those  key & lock assy's  on ebay,  there are a bunch of them, (not sure which ones fit yours)  are just the tumbler barrel,  that whole thing turns inside the housing,  but the wear comes  on the outside of that part, and inside the housing where it turns.  i've dissembled several of them and greased / put back,, works a while but when it's worn, it's worn.  used ones are 25-30 years old now,  a new one is recommended, especially if you are keeping the car.

[that one kid]

thanks again for the info thankfully i managed to get the lock back to a working order for now until i can order a new assembly. Do you know much about the parts on the subaru website it doesn't really give a whole lot of info and i was wondering if you had ever ordered one of those parts or what i can expect to receive... like would it be the complete assembly with bearings and a key or would it just be the main housing and ignition barrel? 

[ruparts]

hi,

  i have not bought one, i am sure it should have keys, and i would think the bearings also,, the bearings in your old housing could be used in a replacement,  they are the upper portion steering shaft bearings,   not anything to do with the lock and switch / tumblers barrel.  i 've not seen a column that those bearings were worn out, or where they run worn out,  it's always the key tumblers & barrel,   and where it turns inside the housing takes wear also.