Kitchman14 Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 I have a '92 Legacy with a clutch cable issue but I also have an issue with my passenger side low beam is out but the high beam works. When I pulled the cover off of it the plug/outlet is melted. How do I replace the plug/outlet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Cut and splice a new connector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Here's a thread from the past that may be of some help: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/39122-headlight-connector-go-poof/?hl=%2Bheadlight+%2Bpoof Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp98 Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 And don't use butt connectors to splice the wires together. Use sodier and heatshrink tubing if you want it to last longer than a couple of months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tirod Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 (edited) Crimped butt splices work just fine - in fact,tcrimping is military specification in combat vehicles, even aircraft. Soldering is not, repeat, not all that good because it stiffens the connection and can crack under repeated vibration. Soldering is great on Heathkit projects but isn't transportation grade or practice. Use heat shrink tubing over the joint to help seal out water, or a heat shrinkable butt splice. Nonetheless, it won't stop water from creeping under the insulation, which can travel numerous feet inside the wiring and it exactly why flood damaged cars get totaled. It's not the water in the transmission, the 4 wheelers deal with that easily enough. Water in the wiring loom is eventual death to it's nervous system. The #1 requirement that the military system has is that it's completely sealed and waterproof - which is how the loom keeps it's integrity and prevents getting corroded. In the scale of transportation, the average bass boat has better wiring than a car. It's all about selling you a new one in about ten years - the makers are not giving away the farm with high quality looms that let a car resist voltage drop to sensors, turn signals, etc. for decades. Any restoration shop knows a car over 25 years old needs the original harness ripped out entirely and replaced to get it running the same as new. Otherwise it will be one spliced repair after another. Every termination on an auto wire harness can suck in moisture by capillary action - it's already too late when we buy them to fix it better. So, crimp it and move on, if it's a particularly rare edition that deserves restoration, deal with it then. Edited March 3, 2014 by tirod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp98 Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 I have seen a lot of crimped connections fail but I have seen very few solder connections fail. If you are in the field then they may be alright but if you want it to last in my opinion use a soldiered connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 I have seen a lot of crimped connections fail but I have seen very few solder connections fail. If you are in the field then they may be alright but if you want it to last in my opinion use a soldiered connection. +1 on soldering, then you know it is going to last. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 hate butt connectors. heat shrink with good overlap and twisting the wires together tightly will give a much better connection - even without soldering - than butt connectors will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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