el_freddo Posted December 11, 2024 Share Posted December 11, 2024 On 12/10/2024 at 10:48 PM, pontoontodd said: This is nothing, you should have seen us when we were racing the buggy. Expand I can understand a race vehicle copping stuff like this, but a slightly modified passenger vehicle that does some mild offroading is another thing (oh, and for those that didn’t pick up on it, ^ insert sarcasm here). On 12/10/2024 at 10:48 PM, pontoontodd said: Only one out of five spokes is broken though Expand Well going by Meatloaf’s theory, you’re doing better than two out of three, so that ain’t bad - if you’re game! Cheers Bennie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted December 13, 2024 Author Share Posted December 13, 2024 Video from our trip to the UP last year. If you like extracting Subarus from mud you'll love this one: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted December 16, 2024 Author Share Posted December 16, 2024 When I pulled the white Outback in the garage after firing it up outside in single digit (F) temps and doing a lot of steering it had puked some power steering fluid out. When I was jacking it up to replace the automatic transmission I assumed was bad, I noticed the RR axle was pulled out of the rear diff. I thought I'd looked for that but apparently not. Good reminder to diagnose thoroughly before undergoing major repairs. The diff side seal was shot so I knew at a minimum we had to remove the axle. Also you can see the inside of the diff carrier is quite worn but I wasn't too worried about that. Noticed the inboard joint pulled apart easily, that was strangely worn like it had been overextended and wiped out the big snapring and groove. Balls were no longer shiny and smooth. Fortunately I had a spare axle for that corner. Insert several hours of cussing here. Seemed like the snapring wasn't really holding the axle in very firmly so I foolishly tried bending the snapring a little smaller. Then the axle wouldn't go in at all. Was able to remove and install that snapring a few times (of the course of said hours) but then it would be too small for the axle to go in all the way. After some testing on other axles and diffs it just seems like they're pretty easy to pop out. Seems like in the past they've taken some significant effort to remove. Eventually I noticed the crosspin had turned (while the diff was still in the car). At that point I figured we should just swap the diff. Rollpin must be broken, haven't fully disassembled. By removing both the rear cover studs we were able to swap the diff with only one axle/suspension corner disassembled, which is a huge time savings. Took the car on a test drive, seems back to its normal level of slush. While I was cussing, B replaced the side mirrors. After the test drive, we installed the sandblasted and repainted front bumper and skidplate. Doesn't match the lower half of the car nearly as well as the bumpers on the Impreza match it but I got them all painted together and figured this would be better than its previous rusty state. So I guess we're doing a long term test on what a little brake fluid in your auto trans does. I will change that soon but even a drain and refill on an auto trans only changes about half the fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted December 24, 2024 Author Share Posted December 24, 2024 (edited) I did change the auto trans fluid in the white Outback. It seems to be driving as normally as a 4EAT can. Got B's car back in the garage. Timing belt is shredded into a few pieces. All the idlers spin free and the tensioner was extended. Removed the engine, took off the intake and heads. All(?) the valves were bent. You can see where a few of them hit the pistons. Since he's had a few of these engines start to burn a lot of oil and we're assuming those were due to stuck rings, while we had the heads off we removed the pistons and replaced the rings. First pin came out fairly easily but we made a tool for the slide hammer to remove the rest. After we made and used this tool B noticed the Subaru FSM recommends using their tool which looks just like it. The old oil control rings barely floated. None of the rings stuck very far beyond the piston either and had about double the gap specified. Bores were within .001" round and taper which amazed me for an engine with about 150k miles on it. Gapped the new rings (they were all good out of the box) and put the pistons back in. B had lapped all the valves and replaced the valve stem seals in a better used pair of heads he had. New head gaskets, head bolts, seals, timing set, etc. Tried the old packing with grease and hammering in a pin to push the pilot bearing out trick. That didn't work. So we replaced the pilot bearing in the conventional manner. When I was tightening down the longest bolt for the PS pump it stripped out of the block. Not enough room between engine and condenser to fit a drill and drill bit so I could install a thread repair. Fortunately I was able to tap the hole deeper and use a longer bolt. Cranked a few times for about ten seconds each with the coil pack unplugged so we could get some oil circulating. Once we plugged that back in it fired right up. Seems to idle a little low and rough to me but I don't know what's normal. Runs smooth when you rev it up a little to 1000-2000RPM. No noticeable leaks or smoke. Just drove it out of the garage and back in the driveway but seems to be ready for another off road adventure. Edited December 24, 2024 by pontoontodd 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted December 26, 2024 Share Posted December 26, 2024 Yea, sometimes grease isn't thick enough and will push past the ball bearings. A slice or 2 of bread actually works better. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travelvw Posted December 28, 2024 Share Posted December 28, 2024 On 12/24/2024 at 11:45 PM, pontoontodd said: Just drove it out of the garage and back in the driveway but seems to be ready for another off road adventure. Expand Sweeeet! K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted December 29, 2024 Author Share Posted December 29, 2024 B and I decided to break in the engine on the Forester. Didn't start and idle well at first. Had a code for coolant temp high. I found the coolant temp sensor and we hadn't plugged the connector in so B did that. Seemed to idle smooth but he tried to do as little of that as possible. Went out of town and tried to run it at moderate load and RPM for 20-30 minutes. Ran as well as expected, temps were stable, sucked some coolant out of the overflow when it cooled off. B's big project was replacing his hatch. It'd been beat for a while, he got a better one over a year ago, wanted to wait until he had a good rear bumper to protect it. Added some wire plugs because the junkyard had cut the wiring. Swapped over wiper motor, lock, and actuator, got everything working. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted January 22 Author Share Posted January 22 B's Forester continues to run well, isn't consuming much oil. We started work on some rear strut tower braces for my Impreza. Didn't have couplers or enough tubing for a crossbar but we probably have over half the work done. Still have to space the seat latches and relocate the seat belts and add a spare tire mount too. I've been fixated on carrying more fuel since our last trip out west. Would have allowed us to get even farther off the beaten path before having to return to civilization for fuel. I looked into rectangular off the shelf gas tanks but none of them seem to fit well in the spare tire well. My latest idea is to just make one. Two pieces of aluminum, fairly simply cut and bent. Can keep the floor flat this way, should hold 10-12 gallons. Thinking I'll just make the flat flaps wide enough to bolt in under the strut tower braces. Fairly easy/simple mounting and might stiffen the chassis a bit without adding a lot of weight. Thinking 1/8" thick aluminum, two ports in the front, one high, one low. Already have some of the parts. Took the Impreza down to southern IL over the weekend. Drove on a lot of icy/snowy back roads on our way to various hiking trails. A few that were dirt but nothing real crazy. One time we stopped on an icy uphill grade because there was another car parked off to the side and I decided to ask them if they needed anything. They didn't but at first I was getting just some rear wheel spin trying to drive back up the hill. Locked the center diff and drove up without any drama, after about ten or twenty seconds of that I unlocked it, never had to use it the rest of the weekend. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted January 26 Author Share Posted January 26 Best video clips from four trips to the UP last year. Haven't been taking as much video as previous years. We have video of our five hour recovery but I didn't think it was worth sharing even at a much higher speed or cut up. Still have video from our trip out west and our trip to Arkansas. Also want to do a walkaround video of the black Outback before we part it out. Probably same for green Impreza now that it's mostly done. If I have time long travel highlight videos and a recovery compilation video too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted February 2 Author Share Posted February 2 We finished the rear strut tower brace for my Impreza. Made a spare tire mount to hold the tire upright. Had to make sure it was over far enough to clear the hatch strut with the hatch closed. Just built a simple mount, thought about making something with a few more tubes but this seems plenty solid. Also relocated the seat belt retractors since they were in the way of the front diagonals. Seat back latch and coupler for cross bar. Had to shift latches forward a bit to make room for the spare tire. Seat back is not as reclined as stock but not too much different. Removed everything for welding and painting. Installed showing plates that bolt through rear trailing arm mounts. Those tubes are barely visible with the seat in place. Didn't have to notch or dent the seat at all. Did have to slot and reform parts of the interior. That took a look more hours than you might think but turned out pretty well. You can see the biggest spot we had to heat and deform for the right rear diagonal but we had to do similar for the front diagonals. Slotted the carpeted floor panel to sit flat too but haven't cut the rubber mat yet. Spare tire and one of the totes in place. Have another one that stacks on top of this. Room in front of it for spare CV axle, etc. Camlock fasteners for spare tire out of the black Outback. Front bolt hole in the "frame rail" for the LR trailing arm mount was starting to pull out and appeared to have a little crack running forward. This was the best picture I could get. Good thing that's bolted all the way up through that brace now. Happy with how this turned out but we also keep wondering if we should have just built two seat buggies by this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travelvw Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 On 2/2/2025 at 3:34 PM, pontoontodd said: Happy with how this turned out but we also keep wondering if we should have just built two seat buggies by this point. Expand Naaah. Love the videos. K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted February 9 Author Share Posted February 9 B and I cut his interior panels to fit around his frame brace and he got them installed. Should be relatively easy to take the panels back out to check on the body occasionally. As with my car, took a good portion of the day to get them to fit back in. I've got some material on order to build the spare tire well gas tank for the Impreza. We tested a stock Subaru fuel pump and it didn't pump backwards. B removed this check valve from one but it still didn't pump backwards when we reversed the polarity. I have at least four Walbro 255lph pumps but they also don't pump backwards. They appear to have a check valve too but not as easily removeable. So I'm on a quest for a reversible fuel pump. Worst case I guess I use two pumps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slammo Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 (edited) What's the reason for a reversible flow fuel pump? Edited February 10 by slammo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted February 11 Author Share Posted February 11 On 2/10/2025 at 3:09 AM, slammo said: What's the reason for a reversible flow fuel pump? Expand The plan is to have a vent/overflow line connecting the tops of both gas tanks. So the second tank will be vented through the stock fuel venting system. Then I'm planning on having a port at the bottom of the second tank with a fuel pump connecting it to the stock tank. This will go in one of the inspection plates and near the bottom of the stock tank. This way the pump can either fill the stock tank from the second tank or fill the second tank from the stock tank. Current plan is just to use two fuel pumps since they have check valves. I already have them, the wiring will be easier really, and I haven't found any reasonably priced reversible fuel pumps. Not extremely fast, the pumps I have are rated at about 75 gallons per hour at 0psi. But it won't be used at every fill up and could potentially start the process before getting to the gas station if the stock tank has a significant amount of gas still in it. Seems better overall than having another filling and venting system for the second tank. There are other ways to do it. For instance I could have some kind of valve that would dump the overflow/relief flow from the engine to the second tank and just run the stock fuel pump to fill the second tank. Just a straight hose from near the top of both tanks connecting each other should allow passive filling of the second tank through the stock filler but - it'd probably be slow, I'd have to add another vent fitting to the second tank, and I'd have to add a fitting to the stock tank which would be difficult and a possible leak source. Definitely open to suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted February 20 Author Share Posted February 20 (edited) B and I pulled the dash out of the Impreza and worked on some wiring. The neutral and clutch switches (for canceling the cruise control) haven't been registering on the Haltech in a while. I had them wired 12VDC to one side, signal wire to Haltech on the other side. B suggested trying to ground them and that made them turn on and off at the Haltech. Still don't understand that, had them wired to power and they worked for a while. I think they stopped working when I replaced the expansion module or updated the firmware. Regardless, they work now. B installed the cabin air filter kit. Slammo turned me on to this. Very simple install/upgrade. B also cleaned out the HVAC box and blower motor. B wired in a retained accessory power module from timers.shop. Set that up to keep the power to the family band radio and two cigarette lighter outlets after the ignition is turned off. Will set that to 99 minutes I think. Been meaning to do that for years. He also made a little panel and added a switch so we can turn on one fuel pump or the other once the extra fuel tank is done. He replaced the backlight bulb in the gauge cluster so the clock shows up now. I wired all four EGR solenoid grounds to one of the outputs of the Haltech so we can see if that does anything. Wanted to get it working before we tune the car on a dyno. I got the horn working. Since the cruise inputs for the Haltech need a 5VDC power supply I had to separate that out (they're normally powered by the 12VDC horn circuit) and run the horn power through one of the airbag wires. The main reason for pulling the dash was to try to get the speedo working. After some trial and error and back and forth with Dakota Digital, I seem to have it working now. Will update the EZ36 swap thread with details. On that topic, I plan on just putting a swap guide and base map on my website soon too. Not sure how to share files on here. Edited February 20 by pontoontodd 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted March 2 Author Share Posted March 2 (edited) B and I got the dash back in the Impreza and everything seems to work - speedo, clutch/brake/neutral switches to cancel cruise, clock, delayed power shutoff for family band radio and a couple cig lighter outlets, etc. One of the speakers was making a ton of noise so B pulled it out and glued/clamped the paper back down to the metal ring and it's much better. HVAC fan intermittently stops, usually playing with the switch will get it going again. Got the material and drawing to local fab guy to make fuel tank. It was stalling occasionally when coming to a stop and disengaging the clutch. The idle control derivative gain had been zero percent, bumping that up to 2% seemed to fix the problem. 5-10% makes the idle hunt. Did some work on B's blue Forester. The RF knuckle wasn't really clamping the ball joint perfectly anymore so I replaced that with a new one he got from Dorman / Rockauto. Also replaced the front control arm bushing while things were apart. The Whiteline bushings apparently don't fit our fabricated arms perfectly but I made them work. B welded up a bunch of cracks/rust holes in his exhaust. A penny on the inside of the flange while welding on the outside made this job much easier. While he was at it he did some rust/rock repair with angle iron on his gas tank guard. Far from perfect but much better than before. We also cleared some room for the black Outback part out. In related news, the RR axle has popped out of the rear diff on the white Outback twice in the last month or so. Clips back in fairly easily but disconcerting. Anyone know of a good fix for this? I haven't even been able to successfully install snaprings in those spider gears without making them too small for the axle to snap into. Need to see if I can get slightly longer axles or maybe space it farther inboard. Edited March 2 by pontoontodd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 Edited a couple videos from our last trip out west. Long version is in strictly chronological order - action video clips, scenery video clips, pictures. Feedback appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jf1sf5 Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 Rock Crawling Subarus ! Very nice video (I watched the long version), do you still have the custom built long travel shock absorbers ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jf1sf5 Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 About the rear axles, the left is 1 cm shorter than the right axle, so you maybe fitted a left axle on the right side thus it pops out at full droop ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 (edited) On 3/4/2025 at 9:27 PM, jf1sf5 said: Rock Crawling Subarus ! Very nice video (I watched the long version), do you still have the custom built long travel shock absorbers ? Expand Yes, both the cars in the video have the long travel struts we built. A couple other friends have them too. On 3/4/2025 at 9:34 PM, jf1sf5 said: About the rear axles, the left is 1 cm shorter than the right axle, so you maybe fitted a left axle on the right side thus it pops out at full droop ? Expand Possible. I'm pretty sure we checked that. This is the same side that came out before, different axle and differential, so I don't think it's this specific axle being incorrect. I do want to get another pair and double check. It'd be good to have spare rear CV axles for that car regardless. Also we might be able to fit a thicker spacer between the axle and wheel bearing. Other followup, I noticed the Impreza would still stall occasionally when coming to a stop with clutch disengaged when not fully warmed up but didn't do that for the first few minutes of driving. So I changed the idle speed map to 1250RPM up to about 150F (had dropped down to 1000 by then), 1000RPM above that. No stalling anymore. In the past I had the idle speed at 7-800 and it will idle just fine there but when a stoplight unexpectedly turns green or something it takes a second to rev it up before engaging the clutch. At 1000 you can just start engaging the clutch and give it some gas, much easier to get going without killing the engine. Edited March 5 by pontoontodd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jf1sf5 Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 I've had an idle issue on my EJ22 and finally diagnosed some old vacuum hoses connected to the intake that probably had some micro cracks so I replaced them and the idle and torque came back to normal at 650 rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted March 12 Author Share Posted March 12 On 3/5/2025 at 11:54 AM, jf1sf5 said: I've had an idle issue on my EJ22 and finally diagnosed some old vacuum hoses connected to the intake that probably had some micro cracks so I replaced them and the idle and torque came back to normal at 650 rpm. Expand I dropped the idle at 210F+ to 800 and it still hasn't stalled and I don't think I've stalled it starting out. Also had someone help me tune the PID on the cruise control, we got that very smooth now. Wound up zeroing out the derivative gain and the integral gain. Actually flipped what the integral gain was doing from the base settings and that may have helped even more. Had a bunch of friends help part out the black Outback. Base of passenger side A pillar was more cracked than I expected especially since the windshield wasn't cracked. This is a good example of why I considered the car totaled. This evaporator has actually been flushed out a few times. That white thing used to be a round washer sealing the bulkhead fitting in the fuel cell for the main pickup hose. We got most of the wiring harness out intact. We cut a few things for the rear taillights and the doors before we realized we could/would remove the entire thing. Mainly I wanted to keep the portion from the ECU to the engine so we could potentially swap that EZ30 into something else. Wiring harness pictured weighed 51#. This is after we put away/threw away a lot of parts. Not much left on the shell aside from the bumpers, some glass, and the headliner. Hopefully will be picked up momentarily. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted March 25 Author Share Posted March 25 Video from our trip to Arkansas last fall with slammo and travelvw. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 Visited a friend in Arizona and we swapped the 5MT in his 2002 WRX. Quarter million mile unit we pulled vs less than 100k mile unit from a 2004. Installed the proper stubs and seals so he could reuse his axles. The clutch he got did not fit the flywheel he got from the same company even after calling to make sure they would fit together. 2004 trans came with a clutch so we had three total. All of the pressure plates had the same bolt pattern, all too small for the new flywheel they sent him. No big deal, we can just use the new disc and pressure plate on his old flywheel. Fortunately my brother checked or we would have found out the hard way but this new disc (and the one from the 2004 junkyard trans) stuck out farther into the flywheel than his old disc and would have rubbed on the flywheel bolts. If not immediately, eventually as the disc wore. Luckily there was a speed shop close by open on a Saturday and they an ACT stage 1 disc hanging on a peg that worked perfectly. He is surprised that the pedal is significantly lower effort than before. One of the reasons we swapped the trans is that it had started to make (gear?) noise while engine braking especially once it had warmed up. This new one does too which makes me wonder if it's some kind of engine/pulley noise. On the plus side he can now downshift into first while moving for the first time ever. Fixed some minor oil leaks while we were at it. Discovered that really old RTV will not cure even if left for hours, again glad we figured that out the easy way. Also a good reminder that turbo Subarus are significantly more difficult to work on. Front subframe from the black Outback. One side had been extensively welded from the underside but not the other. Did some little things on the cars preparing for a trip out west. Replaced a tie rod, changed oil, greased struts, etc in green Impreza. Noticed one of the engine mount to crossmember nuts was gone and the other one was a turn or two loose. So that explains the occasional drivetrain clunk I've been getting. B got the LO indicator on the Forester's instrument cluster to light up when he shifts into low range. We modified the tow bar to make it a bit lighter, more compact, and more rigid. Tack welded washers in place for the width to fit our cars so it can't pivot around. Hopefully we'll never use it again. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontoontodd Posted April 12 Author Share Posted April 12 (edited) Two weeks ago we drove the Subarus out west. Somewhat last minute shift of plans to western AZ for our trip as that was the only part of the western US that had a decent weather forecast for the week. In retrospect we probably should have done the last week of April instead so we had more options but it worked out. Saturday morning Z and A and B met at my house at 8AM and we packed up and headed west. Got to a campground east of Denver and stayed the night. Not too much below freezing but we got a dusting of snow overnight. Sunday we kept driving and made it into Nevada and camped east of Vegas along Lake Mead, saw some donkeys on the way in, the first group of many we'd see that week. It was very windy that night. The ground was too hard to effectively stake in the tents so I put the loops around some large rocks but we didn't sleep well as the tent sounded like it was going to start ripping apart at times despite parking the car just upwind of it. Monday we took the scenic route to Hoover Dam including some unpaved trails. Continued into Arizona and started down some Massey trails. Saw a lot of Joshua trees in NW Arizona, some of them quite green. Started on Massey NW29. Massey NW28 was fairly high up in the mountains and we got snowed on again, this time in Arizona. Might have been graupel (small white pellets) but probably not hail. Excellent views. Saw an old Ford truck down the slope from the trail (middle of picture below) and hiked down to it. On the way we also saw a Saturn. Neither had batteries. The Ford's transmission tunnel had been cut out (appeared to be cut out where we found it, we saw at least one chunk of it laying on the ground). The transmission had been removed and presumably carried hundreds of feet either up or down a steep loose rocky grade. Some cool mine ruins at the end of the side trail. Definitely want to take this one clockwise (as viewed from above) which we fortunately did, there was a lot of rocky downhill in one section but the uphill in the direction we took wasn't bad. The next point of interest we saw were some murals that had been painted on rocks along the trail that were originally painted in the 1960s and then repainted early this century. That night we were trying to find a more sheltered spot from the wind but even a small pond at the bottom of a 100' deep mining pit was windy so we just camped out in a wash along Massey NW26. That night was windy too but not quite as bad as the previous. There were also donkeys nearby at night and in the morning. Tuesday the first trails, Massey NW26 and NW27, took us the rest of the way to Lake Mohave. Then back up into the mountains and more graupel. Saw another truck rolled down the slope off Massey NW19 trail. Drove to the remains of an old mine, probably the biggest ruins/tailings we saw that week. Got some more graupel and we were getting a bit hungry so I cooked some dino nuggets in an abandoned mining shack. A climbed the sandy tailings pile in the Forester. Numerous old cars half buried in gravel. Next we drove to Massey NW15 towards Alamo lake. It was getting late so we found a neat well used campsite under a couple big trees along Massey NW17 and finally slept well, basically no wind, A hammocked between the trees. In the morning we found an old overgrown truck bed, a homemade vault toilet, and an old well. Wednesday morning we drove to some other mine ruins and then down to Big Sandy River. Z briefly got the Impreza stuck but we were able to just jack the rear end back up out of the sand, put down sand ladders, and he drove out. We drove the rest of the way to Alamo Lake and then took Massey NW14 to a river crossing as there is a bridge for the gas pipeline but not for vehicles. I waded a few options and picked the one with multiple firmer crossings rather than one with a single long crossing and soft spot in the middle. Both cars drove through the various crossings/mudholes without incident and we celebrated with some PB&Js. It was very green along the river, not super surprising but not really what we'd expected driving in western Arizona. We took Massey NW12 to Swansea, perhaps the largest mine/ghost town ruins of the week, and spent a while exploring on foot. Drove down Massey NW13, a pretty fun wash, as close as possible to the Bill Williams river we'd crossed earlier and found the remains of the old pump house, more donkeys along the way. Took Massey NW6, crossed a canal and continued. Started getting dark so we found a spot off the main road to camp for the night. Thursday morning we visited more old mines along Massey NW1. Saw the Bouse fisherman, a bit disappointing honestly. Back to more old mines along Massey NW3 and a cave/arch at the top of a hill. Headed down to Quartzite for fuel on the way to Kofa NWR. When we got to the highway there was a sign to “wait for the pilot car” and the old man driving the minivan ahead of us got out and sat on his hood to smoke a cigarette. After a few minutes of impatiently waiting I noticed the powerline grade along the highway so we followed that for about five miles, crossing various washes along the way, until we'd passed the construction zone and got back on the highway. The Mobil gas station sold water for $0.25/gallon or $1 / 5 gallons (quarters only) so we got some water for drinking and rinsed off our heads. Best quarter I ever spent. The first trail we took in Kofa was Massey C2 up an extremely scenic wash/canyon. Small arch at the top of the canyon, skull rock, and a large balanced rock. You can no longer drive all the way through, you'd have to do a through hike, but we hiked from the end of the driving path up to the saddle to check out the view. Then we drove down Massey C1 (Palm Canyon trail) to hike back to get a view of the only native palm trees still growing in Arizona. It's a fairly arduous trek to actually hike up to them (start at the red post to the right) and it was getting dark so we hiked back to the cars to find a campsite. Found a decent one close to the intersection of Massey C3 and C4 where we wanted to start the next morning. Friday morning we drove south on Massey C4 to an old mining town/museum. A bit of a tourist trap but there were a lot of cool old things to see, plus they had flush toilets. We looped back to the highway and went back by the campsite to head east through the NWR on Massey C6 and C9. Where C3 meets C6 is the site of a large mine, fair amount of equipment/ruins and some tunnels to explore. We headed north out of the NWR on Massey C10, drove along the top of a dam, and drove down a bit of a fun pipeline grade. Crossed the interstate, continued north on Massey C11, and found a spot to camp next to a small old mine of course. Saturday morning we drove up to the highway and started heading home. Stayed in the same campground we had on the way out east of Denver. It was cold again, the small pond by our site was frozen in the morning, but no snow. Sunday we drove the rest of the way home. B's Forester drove about 4400 miles so the Impreza probably did about 4300. Forester needs a RF CV axle and one of his valve stems was leaking so we swapped on one of the spares in Iowa. Impreza needs a RF tie rod. Most disappointingly the coolant temperature crept up a few times on long slow uphill trails with the AC on and once in deep sand with the AC off. AC needs some work/tuning too, I might try running it at a lower voltage. It seemed to work fine last summer but it was mostly discharged before the trip and since I recharged it, the high and low pressure slowly diverge until it eventually shuts off and then it will cycle back on again. It does this every minute or so and you can feel it surging while driving. Not sure if it's fully charged. I'd forgotten how rocky a lot of the Arizona trails are. I'm not talking about challenging rock crawling, although there was some of that, rather many of the trails had a lot of 4-6” rocks that were just annoying and rattled the cars. For instance my glovebox latch came unscrewed near the end of the week. Haven't run into trails quite like that for such long distances in other states. A used the low range on the Impreza once at the top of a hill when he didn't have quite enough momentum to get to the top. Forester low range got used 5-10 times. Overall a good trip. No major problems, only got stuck twice briefly, saw some good scenery, hit some fun trails and had good weather. Sorry travelvw, not a lot of critters or carnage on this trip. Edited April 12 by pontoontodd 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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