rrgrr Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Sometimes lately when I get into the car cold, the gas gauge is reading -until I start the car. Then it bottoms out until I drive for a bit, then it seems to "warm up" and creeps up to normal. The low fuel light never lights during this. The other day the light came on early -like 1/8 tank, so I put 5 gallons in and it went too high like it was out of calibration. Just that once, then it corrected. Does anyone know why this might be? I want to fill up and see what happens, but gas is $$$ now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Year and Model of subject? If EA82 wagon, I have pulled and repaired 2 sending units. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skysm182 Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Year and Model of subject? If EA82 wagon, I have pulled and repaired 2 sending units. How do you pull and repair the sending units? My 91 loyale always gets down to empty even though there is a quarter of a tank of gas left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrgrr Posted March 14, 2014 Author Share Posted March 14, 2014 Yep, EA82 wagon please elaborate on the repair! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 In the rear of wagon, passenger side, right above fuel tank, under carpet... there is an access hole. Remove the cover plate... it has a tar-like glue for sealing. Be careful now... you are about to encounter flammable fumes. So, finish your smoke, now. Undo the screws (maybe 8mm or 10mm bolt head or phillips) - don't recall exactly. Yes, unplug the e-connector. Pull out the sending unit. This is called a potentiometer. Depending upon the resistance of the ground, your fuel gauge needle will move. I carefully cleaned mine with carb cleaner and laquer thinner for better contact. Also, I had to bend the part that 'slides' up and down on coils so it would make contact the entire length of the coil. If you plug in the e-connect, and then move up/down the coils, your friend will see the gas guage move up and down. Key on? Like when it floats on top of the gasoline. In the old days, they actually used floats for fuel gauges. Probably a 30 minute job once you figure out how to loosen the carpet. I did mine from passenger rear seat and tailgate... then flipped it over towards the driver side . 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skysm182 Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 In the rear of wagon, passenger side, right above fuel tank, under carpet... there is an access hole. Remove the cover plate... it has a tar-like glue for sealing. Be careful now... you are about to encounter flammable fumes. So, finish your smoke, now. Undo the screws (maybe 8mm or 10mm bolt head or phillips) - don't recall exactly. Yes, unplug the e-connector. Pull out the sending unit. This is called a potentiometer. Depending upon the resistance of the ground, your fuel gauge needle will move. I carefully cleaned mine with carb cleaner and laquer thinner for better contact. Also, I had to bend the part that 'slides' up and down on coils so it would make contact the entire length of the coil. If you plug in the e-connect, and then move up/down the coils, your friend will see the gas guage move up and down. Key on? Like when it floats on top of the gasoline. In the old days, they actually used floats for fuel gauges. Probably a 30 minute job once you figure out how to loosen the carpet. I did mine from passenger rear seat and tailgate... then flipped it over towards the driver side . when you re install, do you have to add new tar glue sealant or what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrgrr Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 Thanks for your help! I will be looking into this. I need accuracy with gas prices what they are! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Just be careful when you remove the first plate. I was able to save the 'tar'. It sealed up nicely. No gas fumes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 The procedures to get the Float sender unit and repair it, are Awesomely explained by rdweninger, however by reading this symptom: ...until I start the car. Then it bottoms out until I drive for a bit, then it seems to "warm up" and creeps up to normal... which made me think that also, the alternator not charging 'till the engine reaches above 2K RPM's, could be another cause. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suprjohn Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 I pulled the sender out of my '89 DL wagon to siphon out the ten year old gas. Sealed it up with black RTV. So far, no problems. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrgrr Posted March 28, 2014 Author Share Posted March 28, 2014 So simple. Thanks again, rd. Here's a couple pix if anyone wants to see it. It was useful to see where the gauge bottoms/tops out, too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 (edited) I would be careful about using any type of Silicon sealant as Gas usually dissolves silicon sealants and it may end up where you do not want it, Some research will soon uncover what type of sealant is available in your country that is fuel proof. It is important just research the right material spec for fuel proof components, Even "O" Rings need to be of the right material to use in carburetors and the same thinking applies to any part of a fuel system, Fuel leaks do cause fires never forget that aspect. Almost forgot Ethanol Fuels present yet another problem so if using such a fuel research ethanol proof everything from Fuel lines to "O" Rings and even gaskets, many people have had issues where ethanol has been mandated and they can no longer source ethanol free fuels, For instance early Spanish Dirt Bikes used fiberglass Fuel tanks and Ethanol type fuels eat away the resin of the tanks fiberglass, It has also been well documented that it eats many of the earlier Fuel tank lining materials the Industry that sells Fuel tank sealants has had to evolve new materials to suit ethanol type fuels so be aware. Edited March 30, 2014 by coxy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 (edited) IF the warning light is working properly, you cantrust that as it is a thermistor separate from the sender itself. The duration of the light may vry, but reflect fuel economy to driving load. on level highway, it will come on early, but you can go some 30-40 miles. When in-town driving, it comes on later when fuel is sloshing around until so low, getting 10-20 mi till empty. The reserve from the light is roughly 2 gallons. Also check your wiriring where the pigtail comes in on the passenger cargo hold behind the wheel well. there is a cover plate in there and your pigtail behind it. This is typically a rusty area. Edited March 30, 2014 by MilesFox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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